Showing posts with label buddhism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label buddhism. Show all posts
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Gujarat III: Junagadh, History Heaven
I
visited Uparkot Fort, which was originally built around 300 BCE, but extended many times since. It's said that it was once abandoned for three centuries. This photo is the Kadanal gun, which was probably left in Diu, a Portuguese settlement, in the sixteenth century. I wandered around the fort, which has amazing views of Girnar Hill, another major pilgrimage site. I didn't visit the hill because I'd climbed enough stairs for a long time... and this site had 10,000!!
Inside
the walled city I also visited two stepwells; Adi Chadi, which is cut deep into the side of the cliffs, and Navaghan Kuva, which has steps circling the inner well, with windows cut into the stone. Both are just too large to capture in a photo. Gujarat is a dry state: it is both drought prone, and drinking alcohol is not allowed. I'm finding it a little difficult to get used to the dry winter here; even the driest summer in Canada is more humid.
Next I visited the Buddhist caves, built around the second century CE. Inside the caves several pillars with carvings supported the roof, and niches were cut into the walls.
The Jama Masjid is a mosque built from a Hindu temple, and the sun looked lovely shining between the columns inside.
With some care for my head (thinking of Palitana) I climbed the stairs to the roof for more views of Girnar Hill.
From the fort I walked toward Girnar Hill to visit a huge boulder with Ashokan edicts cut into it in the Pali language. This stone was first carved in 250 BCE by Emperor Ashoka, the central leader of the Mauryan period, who was responsible for the peak of Buddhism in India when he converted.
Finally, I visited the gorgeous Mahabat Maqbara, and drew an increasing number of young
Muslim boys who wanted their photos taken. This mosque was built in the Indo-Islamic style in the mid nineteenth century. I declined to climb a broken ladder to the roof of the mosque, but I did climb one of the four minarets with spiral staircases. At the top, I could actually feel the minaret sway! I also had a great view of the functioning mosque beside Mahabat Maqbara, and the lot behind the mosque, where Muslim men were playing cricket wearing this traditional dress.
At the bottom again, I met a French couple travelling, and so spoke to the first white people since arriving in India. It was interesting to hear their experience of having arrived only a week earlier; they were dismayed by the "bucket bath" and curious about how I managed, travelling alone as a white woman. I can honestly say I've had only the most minor of problems in this sense.
While I'll always draw attention for being foreign (and travelling alone), I've also settled into a different culture of living. However, I can remember the steep learning curve too. My strategy has generally been to avoid trying to understand, and just trying to accept... except for Hindi; I'd really like to understand that better!
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Nagpur Part III: Dhamma Diksha and the City
After eating, more photos and English/Hindi practice occurred. This photo captures three generations of the family: Lakhan, Vachalavbai, and Prakash.
Sightseeing followed. I visited the Ambedkar statue at the Reserve Bank, which has relief artwork depicting the Mahad water tank satyagraha
Labels:
ambedkar,
buddhism,
constitution,
dhamma diksha,
masjid,
stupa,
zero mile
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Nagpur Part II: Dussehra
Nagpur Part II: Dussahra
When I returned to Nagpur Sunday evening I was taking some photos of political posters at the bus station when some men standing there called me over. Inside a large tent they had posters of the Dalit leader Dr. Bhimrao Ramji “Babasaheb” Ambedkar for the commemoration of his conversion to Buddhism in 1956. Dalit is the name which “untouchables” in the caste system call themselves. They also introduced me to the men whose photos were on the political posters. They told me to return at 9 am the next day for the events.
Monday morning I was honoured to be invited to participate in the Ambedkar puja. I helped to hang the garland on the portrait in the bus station entrance. I think I look a little tired and slightly sunburnt; Nagpur is very hot and sunny, and I have started a mean farmer’s tan, despite the sunscreen.
From there one of the women, Prabhattya, became my guide. (Also I got to improve my Hindi. I spent much of my time in Nagpur asking “Kya photo teek hai?”) We sat at the very front of the bus on the way to Dragon Palace Temple! Many vehicles were flying the Dalit political flag (a white chakra on a blue background) as well as the colorful prayer flag. At the temple they are building a stupa, a Buddhist memorial dome.
My celebrity status gave me VIP seats for the puja which included drumming and prayer. The Buddha statue is a gift from Japan. The little girls sitting behind me all wanted to ask in Hindi or English what is my name. They accompanied the lead drummers.
Around the temple many shops were set up to sell powder, posters, books, jewelry, and statues of the Buddha and Ambedkar. Crowds of people wanted to take my photo; this was alarming at times! Prabhattya is in the front left corner of my photo through the arch. On the way back into the city, the bus ride was probably the hottest I have ever been in my life. But I still prefer heat over cold.

After lunch Prabhattya took me to visit her home, after we did puja at the neighbourhood Ambedkar temple. Her daughter had drawn a rangoli in powder at their front step; this is traditionally women’s artwork.


Finally, we went to the Ravana event. On Dussahra, Ram’s defeat of Ravana (and Durga’s defeat of the demon Mahishasura) represents the triumph of good over evil. To celebrate the event, cities build huge effigies of Ravana and set them ablaze! The event is accompanied by prayers, and fireworks. I had a great conversation about culture with two college girls, Surbhi and Madhura.


After the event was over, there was a mad crush for the exits; this is when people can get trampled. I also stopped into a Durga temple to do puja.
Check my Facebook page for the B-list photos from my trip to Nagpur!
Finally, we went to the Ravana event. On Dussahra, Ram’s defeat of Ravana (and Durga’s defeat of the demon Mahishasura) represents the triumph of good over evil. To celebrate the event, cities build huge effigies of Ravana and set them ablaze! The event is accompanied by prayers, and fireworks. I had a great conversation about culture with two college girls, Surbhi and Madhura.
After the event was over, there was a mad crush for the exits; this is when people can get trampled. I also stopped into a Durga temple to do puja.
Check my Facebook page for the B-list photos from my trip to Nagpur!
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