Mumbai Part I: The City and the People

I remember being so confused when I first arrived in Mumbai in August, but on this visit I had an overwhelming feeling of comfort because the city has such a atmosphere of Toronto. They both have the big city feel. I spent seven days in Mumbai, and the first cut of photos was 130, down from 688. I tried so hard to cut it down to four blog entries, but I will console myself with the thought that I haven't posted for almost three weeks, and give you five posts over the next week. Rather than taking a chronological approach as usual, I'm trying something different.

No day would be complete without a cup of chai, and I almost always have a cup with breakfast. Since I started at the Gateway of India at sunrise, I bought some from a "chaiwallah" who walks along with an urn and some plastic cups. Chai is always made with milk and sugar, and at home I like to make it with ginger, fresh cracked pepper, and mint or lemongrass. On this trip I also bought white Darjeeling loose leaves, which I can't afford in Canada. I love tea! Many people begin their day with prayer as well. I stayed near the financial district, but tucked away in a corner one street over I found this little open-air Hindu temple with a brightly painted roof.

Transportation is relatively efficient in Mumbai, considering that three million people pass through Chattrapati Shivaji Terminal every day (formerly Victoria Terminal, and an UNESCO World Heritage Site). I took advantage of the suburban train, taxis, the city bus, and the intercity bus between Pune and Mumbai. I was too nervous to ride from CST on this visit, and avoided rush hour trains, but I did take the suburban train from Churchgate Station; I stayed in the Fort area, about halfway between the two. Some train cars are reserved for women, which is kind of awesome. Taxis are a little less crowded, but slower because the traffic can get crazy. I once saw a whole street filled with these black and yellow taxis! Most days I walked until my feet were breaking, so once I hopped on a bus just to take me out of the Market, and maybe because I was lost a little.

I only went to the Market area at night, so I don't have photos, but street hawkers set up almost everywhere. A trip to Mumbai isn't complete without shopping! I shopped way more than I bought, but I did have some finds. Some of you will share my delight with the entire corner dedicated to books. I would need a fisheye lens to capture the scene, but it was beautiful! Most places also have slums, although I can't always tell the difference between slums and "temporary housing;" construction workers set up shacks where they work, and bring their families. 60% of Mumbai's population lives in slums. I found this cute girl in some of this housing near Hajj Ali Mosque. Her dad said hi to me, and then told her to come out and take a look at the foreigner.

Mumbai has places of worship for every religion, including Judaism. Bet you didn't think of that! Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue is tucked away down a side street in the Colaba Area, the main tourist area. Later in the day for lunch... or dinner, thali always does the job! The dishes used are called thali, and includes vegetables, soup, daal, roti (which are on a side plate here), rice, and yogurt. Pickle (not the Western kind!), lime, and onion are always available as condiments. This was a favourite because it also included a sweet pudding.

I met these two chatty Muslim girls at Chowpatty Beach, where I tried falooda and had the required Chowpatty snack of bhel puri. I'm not sure I liked falooda, but bhel puri is always good. This one could maybe be a little spicier! While walking the Marine Drive promenade I discovered Yann-Arthus Bertrand's exhibit "Earth From Above" which I saw first in Vienna, Austria in 2004; Shah Rukh Khan apparently inaugurated it here. What a wonderful and unexpected way to come full circle!