tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43217809262266041152024-02-06T19:58:57.122-08:00Eat, Sleep, Study, PuneThe gori larki living in Pune.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-26309946552721234142010-10-19T12:58:00.000-07:002010-10-19T13:32:10.295-07:00Bhaktapur and Changu Narayan<div>Nepal is vastly underrated. This past year I took two trips, primarily for visa purposes, but both times I discovered amazing landscapes, gorgeous architecture and sculpture, fascinating history, and cool people.</div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLlKb8zu9wKnKSJ2BBLdjzFUUt5ARvEr7M0H_9gjfDMSxGGQhoNGQDYmSGNrPuAtladewveUI6aWAkl53kymVas7L_cdx5hQdgFf1QMBRIzHevVXnSXy2jXr1QvMcePYi2Sp5p-Jdp7vg/s200/DSC_0395b.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529851766624849778" /><div>I'm looking forward to visiting again some day, perhaps in winter just after the monsoon, to complement my summer and monsoon visits.</div><div><br /></div><div>Bhaktapur hosts the third historical square in the Kathmandu valley, after Durbar Square in Kathmandu, and Patan's Durbar Square. Durbar Square in Bhaktapur has an amazing golden door into the king's palace. </div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5PN89P0dLWrzyLv0G2vFsTy3n7vy-C_ngG-GDlvtiqDQum3foV8OwsKLsvMM7ZEOpTFT4OnKIk3sFXBIsnvZLRuXK9WIpWAWdomU4jqubkNmDlxAWIbuPIf-7sY88lw-hwNzC2Pb_nA/s200/DSC_0403b.jpg" style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529853021829533074" /><div>In the photo of Vatsala Temple you can see two bells; the Taleju bell on the right was for prayers, and the "barking bell" (partly shown) on the left was erected to counteract a king's vision.</div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSXcuUaKhb8y4FLjuucGqaManmQGjNFD6Qjp6TYUhWmcFKV6wJTIRRM9oCtR7nVJGZCOcj27_cguuL43F2RYwVt6ruR0azrq63WtXGftsEEJiJ7SgoLNdqMtgQ995rZBvr7zf8FZci5NM/s200/DSC_0451b.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529851788042966386" /><div>A walking tour around Bhaktapur gives a glimpse into more traditional Nepali life, from worship at the Mahakali Temple to red chilis drying on the roadside.</div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_3xlnRPOeUQP06makDDTMeISqDfvEpxLIFWDb4aBFo2P5_IIGKe_jPNq-KfscFY48MrwcPLN81VUdfK1qdK9iXklhwmOtbVSyEx9Boaxnc8m9X_KA9xOoVzU0aqVV-g5gmRSQKSfjLew/s200/DSC_0453b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529851805404270850" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr1cc1oaz0aLCIITDYANImYZPzEDVHKumI1_zczPEadyf9T7ee20aP_BBCFvszf_r3ayQRI9wFdqs8nWk8o-9phHOFcxMaMpFutTA3eYdp5ROU4pBtBCkvviYz4VCDJ1G8zA5-9s7XTcI/s200/DSC_0468b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529851820740411714" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /><div>Apparently another Canadian was wandering the streets, because I ran into this boy with a flag pin in his ear. His friend got a pin from me.</div><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX1RYU1JRDRdu0IgkWZ_wI81YLuZ6_d2us3qxQNL1jL-1ebhrw-IZdaNhzi2k-cArE-k6vATG-YYiKdB1zRaEkKlTgFi9N6dDM2tm7jGKT_KvVJ1SYRLlP2P0lyzFIebxH9OMmyd_u9o/s200/DSC_0563b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529852175252255186" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px; " /></span><div>Religious icons often have flowers on them, but the monsoon made some striking combinations. Halfway through my walking tour, and well into the afternoon, it started to rain, so I grabbed a bowl of <a href="http://www.ecs.com.np/living_category.php?category=5&id=364">juju dhau</a>, and caught the bus back to Kathmandu.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SOzOEwMZnJTVg1M819_cDQEUBSPdDQOJOUZof9Pv_81JtVIojtKdn-CcEfoxRdLH4cytlHl5HXs6WEfi2x7Sn8j2vmWiIqHYtK4ipFtSebAz65ypT4nsQvU1STpqTPNenqbu864aLyQ/s200/DSC_0766b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529852219140750978" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /><div>The southeast side of Bhaktapur included Potter's Square, filled with drying clay pots, and surrounded by pottery wheels and shops.</div><div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8frXJ-y8OaorJJrU9fEadLoYl53wzejGZN4JNwUDz0GLS_4p5fB3wW0-3IdoztHOnN66Zi_pA0jERc7HRO85csqiyj7Om0l5rwJXzPD6uStUUpfgTXbLjfCF6_iLORPm7vte__8854Ns/s200/DSC_0609b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529852185544231074" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px; " /><div>This photo shows Bhairabnath Temple from Nyatapola Temple at Taumadhi Tole.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8frXJ-y8OaorJJrU9fEadLoYl53wzejGZN4JNwUDz0GLS_4p5fB3wW0-3IdoztHOnN66Zi_pA0jERc7HRO85csqiyj7Om0l5rwJXzPD6uStUUpfgTXbLjfCF6_iLORPm7vte__8854Ns/s1600/DSC_0609b.jpg"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdwjf0CvLuaaNhEAMWqsfChcoWXk-1yfItcsz3HvwHOI3mzUcTPbeHdnAa-yaXHcdcIbEeeNcqNliNFjFMhKLP4ssd_w7_s3Ej7nhTd9wYeKqhVKIwyzsjOZCy2AZWBuDd9UTRtCfBMhs/s1600/DSC_0685b.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdwjf0CvLuaaNhEAMWqsfChcoWXk-1yfItcsz3HvwHOI3mzUcTPbeHdnAa-yaXHcdcIbEeeNcqNliNFjFMhKLP4ssd_w7_s3Ej7nhTd9wYeKqhVKIwyzsjOZCy2AZWBuDd9UTRtCfBMhs/s200/DSC_0685b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529852193829777154" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px; " /></a><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl0VnhNueZ_ntf4DU3vGdjoZtPD9WIOtoYIf1yYMIUofUvZTwq5mqW2Y3v18-uAyaCnYHfnu2iOHy8ZXIZXADbYwFaM2uqdjbmFCBmZkkYaD5vMYIoRCSGKZNwysnyDx1G7pSVFi4G5No/s200/DSC_0664b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529852481846680562" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px; " /><div>The next day I returned, and took a side trip to Changu Narayan, a temple complex with the most impressive single collection of religious carving: all outdoors! The most interesting were an idol of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vishnu">Vishnu</a> riding his mount<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garuda">Garuda</a> (also on the 10 rupee note), and Vishnu with seven of his ten incarnations represented as heads on one body. Although there's a high risk of getting rained on during the monsoon, it's also a wonderful time for photography, because of the explosion of growth and colour. Many things outdoors grow a green fuzz. Pack a rain jacket and stick your camera in a bag!</div><div><br /></div></div></div>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-16781560294136309072010-10-06T10:53:00.000-07:002010-10-07T12:06:20.871-07:00Chitwan<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfSF5Cip38A7qKB2G7g6Zb7z-o7NCOXUE1zTanL9v4UZQXgYzg2I4FfbQSaGrKy7Xn_6uWLchqIJjdjIszkmWraQs3dQT8HBP0RJb94g34Egvl5MhmYbLTGlbL4IE3MztmoxTso4E98M/s1600/DSC_0885+copy.jpg"></a>Although I didn't get to trek in Nepal, I did the next best thing and went to Chitwan National Park. I spent most of my time relaxing, and met some great people, including Ruthanne, Dan, Natalie, and Izzy from Ireland, Scotland, and England.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfSF5Cip38A7qKB2G7g6Zb7z-o7NCOXUE1zTanL9v4UZQXgYzg2I4FfbQSaGrKy7Xn_6uWLchqIJjdjIszkmWraQs3dQT8HBP0RJb94g34Egvl5MhmYbLTGlbL4IE3MztmoxTso4E98M/s1600/DSC_0885+copy.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfSF5Cip38A7qKB2G7g6Zb7z-o7NCOXUE1zTanL9v4UZQXgYzg2I4FfbQSaGrKy7Xn_6uWLchqIJjdjIszkmWraQs3dQT8HBP0RJb94g34Egvl5MhmYbLTGlbL4IE3MztmoxTso4E98M/s200/DSC_0885+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998616019649858" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a>The bus arrived in the tourist-town Saurasa in a heavy downpour. Fortunately I had packed everything into plastic bags, forseeing the possibility of my pack sitting on top of the bus during monsoon. The Tharu Cultural Dance program put on by young men from the region really impressed me. Some dances were just odd, especially the one where two men dressed as women and a third danced suggestively with them, described as a traditional funeral dance? I must have missed some culturally-specific humour.<div><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqK8pzsN8llhqZh1pxoxVxLg9NS2CuVkC0LtfFG90yshafTImE3DwKIPfMB_0rdmhAO8qycRtoqSuqpwX5g36XTJjv3FgT-KICSczm_UWmNmsC_ymIaUsT6YMhrvQdqS8rC9UAKcXxzk/s200/DSC_0007+copy.jpg" style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998133951237234" />A morning jungle walk didn't show many animals--lots of deer, supposedly a rhino who had just lay down in the tall grass--but plenty of fascinating sights nevertheless. The tall grass cut up the skin on my arms (long sleeves people!), and we saw tracks of wildcat, mongoose, rhino, and more deer. Claw marks on a tree from a tiger, a flying dung beetle (described as a "shit beetle" by my guide), and plenty of insects and flora, including mimosa, which curls up its leaves if touched. The coolest thing I found myself was this bubble-like fungus.<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6s6kaIJzkT0QvvtOrIeNNdj91mLxtI2Vv4-_CJ1XMiQt9a15ph4zDGYwp1uqoMaXkF40kjKhvUbvWBkvKM8X-GxbyVxn3-BkSpHQR7-YF0XN2p7BsI_t3kv8TTqhikS6n1dc_bHN8-CM/s200/DSC_0025+copy.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 194px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998136398182754" /><br /></div><div><br />The elephants are a big draw in the park, although a source of moral conflict, since they don't always appear to be treated well. </div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichpAjNuIM0wnvH7VGpmYkejZ25L0wgJ08hKEYE0NHKrzo62pRPDynit6hh4dNBH7K4BNvurxYwihb3ml83KdXUm7ovbKbzQlZEynIu1u9m6xFAaNFvQFUrvwL_2k2dIg1xK4XG_XliSc/s200/DSC_0149+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998141135374546" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /><div>I took an elephant safari where we saw (more) deer, and rhinos. Riding on an elephant is surprisingly uncomfortable; their walk is really jerky, and the faster they go the worse it gets. It makes those historical battle-elephants even more impressive, since riding on a running elephant and looking intimidating at the same time challenges my imagination.<br /><br />I also checked out the elephants bathing, where I saw an old male getting a scrub. When I<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmE4nQVNNvFhg5CSF6Fa71ABiE1-XOXbB-NyCEdRYWxqDkvI7zyxYCPSHmgWx5pud6lP1H9DEn8bkwqKf8sSZOMUojWboIZtTTNy06P_t7pm6wFtnwx5ovjtUHJKZzBtP1a7k_c-IL5Yk/s200/DSC_0270+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998609058312834" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /> walked out to the elephant breeding centre, I passed through traditional villages where some teenage Nepali girls danced and posed for photos, and a buffalo showed far too much interest in me for my comfort. The elephant twins were the main attraction.<br /><div><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s200/DSC_0182+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998145196839506" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /></span>Sunsets were amazing, and also a great time to people-watch. One misguided tourist kept trying to break up dog fights. I don't really understand how she avoided getting bitten, but I don't doubt that she got fleas. The locals seemed completely baffled by her behaviour. Also, a crocodile was always hanging around in the river by the restaurants!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDjmZifaXopx-JgdH6YLM9-qvwdm8rDCthzl_rHdZZKLMjftSg_h-vE_cRiErLxtF4dfa-vDKHLEaLcY0EfOeP4kstNI36VimGIrKuIqQY1pY7NLazJPzKhTL02gK1GWGYkGdjbphH0DM/s200/DSC_0116+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998139309830338" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span><br /><div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FLu_FHuAsSz9IHsuuB78carlpRXmws2WQRiSJ900NMoqY9BAEhyat3FuJlXBAsLEJpOuEn7nkhB8j_ZfCa7TP3o3TYl36_JMeXgtlIiJhvqZZyPj16jXJ8SuqiPWJ1dvA-VEA9yrj9E/s1600/DSC_0182+copy.jpg"></a><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgbwdyzyj0C0bhTbUVmmYS3PJ2NPwTRWD8bv1JPwGTr_S_YIazmMYzZT4BRKaev5BSX9rmInnYo0gEdGzoOUz138ASwdnnecEa1qtUOfLWfYsZKSD06Gbi1voKROGReBJdbYQwRcrUiM/s200/DSC_0280+copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524998614701772306" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " />Finally, some adventure on the way back to Kathmandu. A strike had been called, and only one bus was travelling that day. We kept taking back roads to avoid blockades, and one of the bus workers instructed us to say we were part of a group, and we had to catch a flight in Kathmandu. They also packed an extra 10 people onto the bus (no fare reduction of course), which meant most of the younger guys rode on the roof. The locals we passed found it hilarious. Anyway, great conversation with a Canadian and an Australian, Deanna and Ele.</div></div></div>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-59995586627370210652010-09-24T14:03:00.000-07:002010-09-24T14:38:00.197-07:00One Last Trip Part I: Pashupatinath<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgquoAgjHQEBnumn5BlrWyU3qevpXIO4wZfkGpUdpXA5CVIw6W5mJwVGGAgm0c43nEiCWCvLBnUxwZXguFpFKV9fBpmWH3JGlxtH4okWrRw-lEvw0euDSu9_54HhyphenhyphenzNWeuQcWdSGT2G5xU/s1600/Pashupatinath_DSC_0745_01.jpg"></a><div>Before travelling back to Canada, I spent two weeks in Nepal to bridge the gap between my visa expiry date and my flight home. The original plan was to take an eight day trek in the mountains, but some health problems prevented that. They didn't prevent me from having a great time in Nepal, but I guess I'm just not meant to trek!</div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic40wTcbq-ccqF-yV8pzf6HE_iw3BqjchBQZS5voHIAfMPm75QV-PCR33xeRjjtfLWWSdoYYw62kR9ZvEe8KSjz2AQkZK_ydPk1W4fCBIRrQ62snIG4UiNq5z7JzHkq_gerz-SV-Mp8xI/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0608_01.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 133px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520592526815451026" /><div>I started with a trip to the holiest temple in Nepal, mostly dedicated to Shiva. I lost count of the small temples.</div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxR6AAcggkY1H-zAczidySN-Z7MPioYCmdgqHVgJg3xipqpoQhyphenhyphenWRiZ5b2NmPH9MCnenUb7XbaakGq_f1r-81TNSX8NIRSyiwolgO0UzM8DQi6QMNVH3j7-OblAEnO5RIxvt2NLQKR4Y/s200/Pashupatinath_0575e+copy.jpg" style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 125px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520595296850497730" /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJJG3BuVp7OP4PoJkgXAWY_FOCM_-IBY8aPCPFZoG0zjVLSDmRbPS9xqT_EVeWLfgGcPkB-QCFZSzx7NRwEDeFfjp3O3qo-N_ldcQxtD9bfqMpvUueVi7MLrbWqe2Re4MzfSNG7ufZMOE/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0533_01+copy.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520592521138355058" /><div>The temple is built on the banks of the Bagmati River in Kathmandu. Here's a line of eleven temples with lingams/yonis. Cremations were also happening continuously, and here you can see the smoke rising up behind a trident, a symbol of Shiva.</div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQFLeAudU9EDBlue2PzAA_wOrLtp2jNpKvpMHQjmgDiQ1gH_aIA0GvKP3g9VScMBsmChCMzXUudFJm6iIggZDOR8ocFYbJZ_8B8IWbG4Bhj2p_62K2bssjGOAXd0sE71t4GzCYt8v-Zk/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0644_01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520594523394075346" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /><div>I was fascinated to find anthropomorphic representations of Shiva focusing on his virility much more graphically than those in India.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXETTwdKI3UFtTRiEL07n_u2dTMKje81LARI_DnfP0NgOJF0_869JDkXAkptOAcsvQDR34K1Q4mV_DsIEFJFFw2G0RP31DUG4sqc3e9GLCiKThOj1MDSigC7sbMqFaiq7kSkccKq_K6xU/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0736_01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520594526774857042" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /><div><div>The temple was filled with hundreds of red-sari-clad women. Apparently there was a festival going on, and the goal of one religious organization was to make a huge number of clay lingam/yonis.</div><div><br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZZHMybntx1yr1DMEozuue4FF4zQuTglVA7oA2hu7YgiRnli8qoX1g1g3Z4rZ9SFil1z5O6I2tk9y6I6VHH-NuxDp1YTPd1t9FzGFmIDrdQee6aGRzSoW8VcJri4SgTfKeBvW-kb-iFU/s200/Pashupatinath_0690e.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520592513466334450" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 140px; " /><div>Holy men also congregate at this temple.</div><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5pxviiHe4wwIrsMQxCmAtGZDIMAxCQ4sP1zA-NkCePodLwnNcjYZZz44k4gdfHxf2jGaDkAqkVpi4xVC2ZZS8_BMjn42kxQ-Eul_-6MU9-FCIEAGL9gSiVmuFkpsfpor3LRHe11FwuM/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0646_01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520592530403271506" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /></span><div>I've mentioned in other blogs that I've really come to dislike monkeys; they're dirty and aggressive, but the temple had some incredibly cute baby monkeys which were at the stage of walking just enough to annoy their mothers, but still uncoordinated.</div><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgquoAgjHQEBnumn5BlrWyU3qevpXIO4wZfkGpUdpXA5CVIw6W5mJwVGGAgm0c43nEiCWCvLBnUxwZXguFpFKV9fBpmWH3JGlxtH4okWrRw-lEvw0euDSu9_54HhyphenhyphenzNWeuQcWdSGT2G5xU/s200/Pashupatinath_DSC_0745_01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520594533983692754" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; " /></span><div>Finally, a five-temple enclosure is now the site of a home for the destitute elderly.</div></div>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-40293919984983984082010-08-05T04:18:00.000-07:002010-08-16T02:41:28.482-07:00The Fantasy Rock Garden and a Second Helping of DelhiI'm in Nepal for two weeks, and very late (a month!) posting the final edition of my last trip. I probably won't post this Nepal trip until I'm back in Canada. My Rajasthan-Agra trip ended in Delhi to visit Nishant, another PhD student at my university in Canada, York University. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx6mEmQSZT4zm66PilxtCLl6lkSGkbqR5B8JUsGKfPHo6k_FeRc6-l2j2jF4Ue_gfMb2nPydY30DTdBBaBaYw7wCZdU6KU4P6MIY-RtKjDwo83PIe7Rrbw_zJNhXsAzenuuCd-w72ynBQ/s1600/DSC_0095+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501884826584845746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx6mEmQSZT4zm66PilxtCLl6lkSGkbqR5B8JUsGKfPHo6k_FeRc6-l2j2jF4Ue_gfMb2nPydY30DTdBBaBaYw7wCZdU6KU4P6MIY-RtKjDwo83PIe7Rrbw_zJNhXsAzenuuCd-w72ynBQ/s200/DSC_0095+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>The main tourist area, Pahar Ganj, had a totally different face, since the street had been gutted in preparation for the Commonwealth Games this year, and was under construction.<br /><br /><br />But first, I took a looooooong day trip to Chandigarh, the shared capital of Punjab and Haryana. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcAUo6I8-IejLx6NK1QmIO6CzYBJI6Vnw4-63x3SciYDtoFLYZkCcugeB7cPvUAAxmG1rbcfVowLk_yCYdhANsZrntokn114a2QmjFpv4fEVopHJkgdnF1QzjZJ1V6FBZMNBJQBpAZbsU/s1600/DSC_0122+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501884837190102450" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcAUo6I8-IejLx6NK1QmIO6CzYBJI6Vnw4-63x3SciYDtoFLYZkCcugeB7cPvUAAxmG1rbcfVowLk_yCYdhANsZrntokn114a2QmjFpv4fEVopHJkgdnF1QzjZJ1V6FBZMNBJQBpAZbsU/s200/DSC_0122+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Nek Chand started the Fantasy Rock Garden in the 1970s to express <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLYncQvdJ7aTYqm8xRTogJoMc4PQA3uL8YT43ViQGf1VgSwm5XK-70Y3qbhol1HHu1ZhBmyjO1wglogfqMp4hfmdtGfjEa1ZlSxu6v1AzBTBn9kXV8le_b2jrBbJw85Mx4Xoy-HKW4Q54/s1600/DSC_0273_01.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501885722616333186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 160px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLYncQvdJ7aTYqm8xRTogJoMc4PQA3uL8YT43ViQGf1VgSwm5XK-70Y3qbhol1HHu1ZhBmyjO1wglogfqMp4hfmdtGfjEa1ZlSxu6v1AzBTBn9kXV8le_b2jrBbJw85Mx4Xoy-HKW4Q54/s200/DSC_0273_01.jpg" border="0" /></a>his artistic energies using industrial waste. The garden is a maze of imaginative landscapes, walls of mosaic art<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix39d0D6qtsweveQbc73pXY7Fs37MrcpNjt1YkO-ZE2Dr8pk1lR3mjaoMsC-PnxDAvSzkk0o6oS1kO6EI-83jEn2BktNpxOAcc7zVDvo46ZAGihOBhb-bA6ihS1cWnkUOaie8ZQ7ReLzU/s1600/DSC_0236_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501884843037364626" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix39d0D6qtsweveQbc73pXY7Fs37MrcpNjt1YkO-ZE2Dr8pk1lR3mjaoMsC-PnxDAvSzkk0o6oS1kO6EI-83jEn2BktNpxOAcc7zVDvo46ZAGihOBhb-bA6ihS1cWnkUOaie8ZQ7ReLzU/s200/DSC_0236_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>, and populated with whimsical people and animals. At times it reminded me of the Spanish artist Gaudi, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4GNqpBxwABQ8BnMNvcIRQe7mSM0jQhNXCPGPuecpFg-nWmJLEFdc7kMPn0HtjhvfjUV6UvtjbO5-Rc92BLSfeCeTeyIrEZLBW9fXsVnuBmCEdHC07_nNI2inbwfXvKzPeqpB_8edfPao/s1600/DSC_0301_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501884846631737554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4GNqpBxwABQ8BnMNvcIRQe7mSM0jQhNXCPGPuecpFg-nWmJLEFdc7kMPn0HtjhvfjUV6UvtjbO5-Rc92BLSfeCeTeyIrEZLBW9fXsVnuBmCEdHC07_nNI2inbwfXvKzPeqpB_8edfPao/s200/DSC_0301_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>but it was entirely unique at the same time. I loved it!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />With a little time left before my train back to Delhi, I stopped at the High Court, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18F5s90iVXLKuDJdw_lHkdhIUHpSdxkfoLX4DzyLomkfTOJQnNbdI-zDFE3wDUbL2fDJbl08RdTaZ5bTdyPkhSME27D0Fpu5qvlh-PxCYfNutjm4jgH19I6HKI8r7kU8T416TabKv3H4/s1600/DSC_0365_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501884854892242210" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18F5s90iVXLKuDJdw_lHkdhIUHpSdxkfoLX4DzyLomkfTOJQnNbdI-zDFE3wDUbL2fDJbl08RdTaZ5bTdyPkhSME27D0Fpu5qvlh-PxCYfNutjm4jgH19I6HKI8r7kU8T416TabKv3H4/s200/DSC_0365_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>and took a few photos of the Open Hand sculpture.<br /><br /><br />Back in Delhi I spent the day with Nishant. We visited the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAU5TVB-d3uyoafXd8DgOruRDVKDT6QGJtF8hSzAryEGGAhglBsW8zsNh6zamh80ss07vp5WJYjWnIMc03KIcZR-H39w-WP61z8f0nvrlisApAyLavl8-VDQhZozgrftNyW0vrylITF4/s1600/DSC_0376_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501885731065290482" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAU5TVB-d3uyoafXd8DgOruRDVKDT6QGJtF8hSzAryEGGAhglBsW8zsNh6zamh80ss07vp5WJYjWnIMc03KIcZR-H39w-WP61z8f0nvrlisApAyLavl8-VDQhZozgrftNyW0vrylITF4/s200/DSC_0376_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Dr. Ambedkar National Memorial, built on the site where Ambedkar died December 6, 1956, and took a brief tour around the Delhi University campus.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdVCLtkGtUfKm6V3FgKKFfEo5Njd3SLq-OTtHEWI_KAUhTMaWyiJ2fvE5-Gy_oKVl-a9rdtfXhYz5CBveJyawm9_NPcBk6QcrZ3BtGgpnQ57ZHIJnW5tRb_JXiLCMvpmNPiJd8vw8EmJk/s1600/DSC_0402_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501885738840763714" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdVCLtkGtUfKm6V3FgKKFfEo5Njd3SLq-OTtHEWI_KAUhTMaWyiJ2fvE5-Gy_oKVl-a9rdtfXhYz5CBveJyawm9_NPcBk6QcrZ3BtGgpnQ57ZHIJnW5tRb_JXiLCMvpmNPiJd8vw8EmJk/s200/DSC_0402_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Next we stopped at Delhi's main gurdwara. I'm a big fan of Sikh temples; I find them very welcoming. We sat to listen to devotional songs for a while, and talked about our religious inclinations.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgRQJOjB4Lg7NcbLxiHryUHUUvvSMCkLSfZgmXHXytrZY8ZG6dIz_z5YTnlwxoHhZmigzLzcwBBPR65uTG9gbxWpfpHJN0eVurpOMJMLguhdgLS8XGIuW-Yiv74Ag2JTuGTOvPpe8fgQ/s1600/DSC_0447_01+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501885751580154466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgRQJOjB4Lg7NcbLxiHryUHUUvvSMCkLSfZgmXHXytrZY8ZG6dIz_z5YTnlwxoHhZmigzLzcwBBPR65uTG9gbxWpfpHJN0eVurpOMJMLguhdgLS8XGIuW-Yiv74Ag2JTuGTOvPpe8fgQ/s200/DSC_0447_01+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>On to Firoz Shah, which includes a ruined mosque where people still come to pray. An Ashokan column is perched on the top of a hill which was converted into Muslim shrines. The ruins make an interesting contrast with the new sports facilities across the road under construction for the Commonwealth Games.<br /><br /><br />The light was fading fast, and then the monsoon hit with a huge force! Torrential rain flooded the streets, and my waterproof jacket was hardly any use. On top of that, our autorickshaw broke down, so we had to find a new one. Even that autorickshaw had problems navigating the flooded streets, so we had to walk a few blocks to reach the train station, sometimes through knee-deep water! A good experience of the power of the monsoon, before heading back to Pune once again.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-33605786476304188752010-08-02T05:57:00.000-07:002010-08-05T04:35:11.587-07:00The Abandoned CityThe Mughal Emperor Akbar built the city of Fatehpur Sikri, but abandoned it soon after it was built because of water shortages. It was really interesting to explore the palace complex, and the city ruins behind the palace.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2souVPISue_OCnIayS0lpIO11p8masmRKH9NPLV-9hBuAqkJtBkbM3yQCgWGZPdcmgQjx2owmv4PmiVMAgHhlgD-0P3N3v9KusNE5rBu5ZitJlsH4D7gxZzYG3RG6JZrlkOS298gsSzE/s1600/DSC_0890+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500796749929801122" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2souVPISue_OCnIayS0lpIO11p8masmRKH9NPLV-9hBuAqkJtBkbM3yQCgWGZPdcmgQjx2owmv4PmiVMAgHhlgD-0P3N3v9KusNE5rBu5ZitJlsH4D7gxZzYG3RG6JZrlkOS298gsSzE/s200/DSC_0890+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>The Great Gate leads into Jama Masjid, which is an active mosque. It was the single <em>worst</em> location for hassles in India. Shopkeepers pose as "not-a-guide" or "practicing-my-English" or "foreigners-are-required-to-have-an-escort-in-the-mosque" and they will do <em>anything</em> to get you to talk to them. Once you talk to them, it's almost impossible to get rid of them. "Leave me alone"; "Go away"; "I want to be alone"; and "Stop bothering me" are all useless, regardless of your level of rudeness. The only thing that works is a firm "Goodbye." It's best to just ignore them in the first place <em>no matter what</em>.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuUBNSx6b4_tPLa5v1PHBBUVuwvuywOfW97Yk5Cta1IxP30dovs39dqNyWqPHo6eqbcl4Tnd5-jf_Pvy9UunSbd1HOX7tNe614R5Axl4f0C1ZpWb1MoldvnlgDEbqQhIt6p26yAKD1ZI/s1600/DSC_0832+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500796741285631074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuUBNSx6b4_tPLa5v1PHBBUVuwvuywOfW97Yk5Cta1IxP30dovs39dqNyWqPHo6eqbcl4Tnd5-jf_Pvy9UunSbd1HOX7tNe614R5Axl4f0C1ZpWb1MoldvnlgDEbqQhIt6p26yAKD1ZI/s200/DSC_0832+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Once I figured out these basics, I could explore the beautiful mosque in relative peace. It's filled with regular people worshipping, intricate relief and lattice carvings, and is the site for a shrine with the tomb of Sufi Saint Salim Chisti which has amazing lattice carvings and colourful mirror and glass inlays. The saint predicted that Akbar would have a son, so people still come to pray for children here.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrlTzPiH0_mmwhoJYSpSDfaELvn_QGPtUWl0ngadcllVXBxeuBDe36ZKQNmY1G-V8Vh1FIPOEfh9005qb5q1d-pTo2_PWcXNPnYWsrK9mDNQ9OZuciFFXZ5juMN7rhVcKCa2hnyXIqVo/s1600/DSC_0005+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500796711938777010" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrlTzPiH0_mmwhoJYSpSDfaELvn_QGPtUWl0ngadcllVXBxeuBDe36ZKQNmY1G-V8Vh1FIPOEfh9005qb5q1d-pTo2_PWcXNPnYWsrK9mDNQ9OZuciFFXZ5juMN7rhVcKCa2hnyXIqVo/s200/DSC_0005+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Inside the palace complex there are many unique buildings, including the Panch Mahal, a five-story building for keeping cool. Most of the buildings were open to the air. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDnTqzCLzruA3E5FZoqX18E5JxQ1Rl2V_OBI9t-pfX1258kbdhAeFrMQAew7lAYPdDal6sSgnlDrs2dTvf4PJr8AZsDjTJXZ0pfOJTAGv7azkSLuS4YllwZYGyLH-FDP4G1g6b0lDE-Q/s1600/DSC_0976+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500797157011769762" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDnTqzCLzruA3E5FZoqX18E5JxQ1Rl2V_OBI9t-pfX1258kbdhAeFrMQAew7lAYPdDal6sSgnlDrs2dTvf4PJr8AZsDjTJXZ0pfOJTAGv7azkSLuS4YllwZYGyLH-FDP4G1g6b0lDE-Q/s200/DSC_0976+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Some of them had fantastic carvings, especially the Khwabgah or Khalwat Kada-i-Khass, which looks like a library.<br /><br />The exit to the city complex leads through the Elephant Gate, and not many people visit here, because it's not well-indicated. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0_XCvOJVf7Ef1Bklu5BEdEXr9CwapsV-whECMX9jCz_O_cSa9uIuKE7aUBVrbglg-pLVkA2c86g-rTWPA66uIuWK-y6exHr8pGqX6mSpp0ka8hXIcLum4b5nAdYOw2socbBkhH7ZPzE/s1600/DSC_0076+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500796720590951746" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0_XCvOJVf7Ef1Bklu5BEdEXr9CwapsV-whECMX9jCz_O_cSa9uIuKE7aUBVrbglg-pLVkA2c86g-rTWPA66uIuWK-y6exHr8pGqX6mSpp0ka8hXIcLum4b5nAdYOw2socbBkhH7ZPzE/s200/DSC_0076+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>The elephants' heads were knocked off because representations of people and animals are forbidden in Islam. (Which allows for the development of such gorgeous geometric, floral, and calligraphic art forms in many Muslim societies.) Akbar wasn't very religious, but the later emperor Aurangzeb was fundamentalist, and he destroyed a lot of the representational artwork when he was in power, aside from doing a lot of harm to Muslim-Hindu relations.<br /><br />B<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qN7WQ_-izLPabdHR8jdNNn819iFCR57j0FzveLc3HRxpLGISfetb7ReNvpE4-M1CireWFRJWybL0w0nxSFtav_S5YTpNwLGl-jwkzTutTjsLgHlK9g45z_stK6QW3sPxluZn_bUx7TY/s1600/DSC_0080+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500796726353874546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qN7WQ_-izLPabdHR8jdNNn819iFCR57j0FzveLc3HRxpLGISfetb7ReNvpE4-M1CireWFRJWybL0w0nxSFtav_S5YTpNwLGl-jwkzTutTjsLgHlK9g45z_stK6QW3sPxluZn_bUx7TY/s200/DSC_0080+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>ehind the palace is a strange-looking tower covered in stone elephant tusks, where the emperor and other dignitaries shot wild animals, after someone else flushed the game toward the tower. There were also interesting tanks, and a very nice baoli, or step-well. Here I met Katsu, a Japanese traveller, who encouraged my interest in eventually visiting Pakistan.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-17019411011425091902010-08-02T05:11:00.000-07:002010-08-02T05:54:07.394-07:00Agra, Finally, and a Lesson in FashionI'm back to blogging after moving out of my flat amid two health problems... long story, but I'm mending.<br /><span style="font-size:100%;"></span><br />T<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9UxdCspfhOepLWHBumfTEkOLksNv-y-Vr2zA4MpvRptcrVd0s9cHem0rhvAucbNOF4nOinCcQLALHNJzSXdz9AnIecMnNPYewhG3NXcepqMPRBmITVhUQOtF0J_LnNP6EBWdsYpaxfg8/s1600/Agra_0348+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500784980671208386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 132px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9UxdCspfhOepLWHBumfTEkOLksNv-y-Vr2zA4MpvRptcrVd0s9cHem0rhvAucbNOF4nOinCcQLALHNJzSXdz9AnIecMnNPYewhG3NXcepqMPRBmITVhUQOtF0J_LnNP6EBWdsYpaxfg8/s200/Agra_0348+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>he Taj Mahal, the world's great monument to death... er, love, built by the Mughal Emperor <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shah_Jahan">Shah Jahan </a>for one of his wives, Mumtaz Mahal, is just as beautiful in reality as its reputation. I finally understood why people take so many uninspired photos from the front. I prefer to capture the essence of such a huge monument through detail, and use a part to represent the whole. The Taj Mahal, however, is most beautiful as a whole; it is greater than the sum of its parts. Unfortunately, it's impossible to capture that beauty on film. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EcX-LJSsOZdX5xSFa-K1hXMxK4yUjcqS2cd_XFT6419Z4vGLwUMG8NLch7cGIn-5yjtseP10SX9vtKGCcisbJ8M56haFf3u1VMPD216p8la2kv1sWW4T-OXdznCDA0_sFDFU391DN2s/s1600/DSC_0504+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500785954038593186" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EcX-LJSsOZdX5xSFa-K1hXMxK4yUjcqS2cd_XFT6419Z4vGLwUMG8NLch7cGIn-5yjtseP10SX9vtKGCcisbJ8M56haFf3u1VMPD216p8la2kv1sWW4T-OXdznCDA0_sFDFU391DN2s/s200/DSC_0504+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>If you like my photos, just imagine how much more amazing it is in reality!<br /><br />My attempts started at sunrise, and in the outtakes, I've shown some of the different lights reflecting from the white marble. The mosque to the west of the Taj, and the guest house to the east, are both beautiful monuments in themselves, and nearly identical, to maintain the symmetry of the Taj as a whole.<br /><br />Photos are prohibited in the tomb interior, but it has the finest <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTUd_J8YlLncKFV9MD65_551pJkQ3Fpa2g__c-rmufSQ7lWmxCsLBJTt11cDFPV67TPHoUNU-gZ89kzC9TSaBmkQTZ1qYXyFx5fKE_6ZuSKYSBw-B-hCioMv73Zd17c49fN5yhDayVLQ/s1600/DSC_0421+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500785014150590754" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTUd_J8YlLncKFV9MD65_551pJkQ3Fpa2g__c-rmufSQ7lWmxCsLBJTt11cDFPV67TPHoUNU-gZ89kzC9TSaBmkQTZ1qYXyFx5fKE_6ZuSKYSBw-B-hCioMv73Zd17c49fN5yhDayVLQ/s200/DSC_0421+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>latticework carving, and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietra_dura">pietra dura</a>--or marble inlay with semi-precious stones. It also has the most incredible acoustics I've ever heard. This room had an echo of at least 15 seconds; it was difficult to tell, because the echo feedback created by the murmurs of visitors created something like a jet-engine roar.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMQbeVzQCzC2U1obB9RuUhijts8Fu9zFxszhl6-tH6CTv9-dXjRry6FQiZnRrTH0G4tdAofOAak58iV54IBeQo67x7i5RXx1pXZyYNZzWS_n3_Dw7l5sEgVf3BnIFh9sF3ERa1bHImeA/s1600/DSC_0164+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500784998915341650" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMQbeVzQCzC2U1obB9RuUhijts8Fu9zFxszhl6-tH6CTv9-dXjRry6FQiZnRrTH0G4tdAofOAak58iV54IBeQo67x7i5RXx1pXZyYNZzWS_n3_Dw7l5sEgVf3BnIFh9sF3ERa1bHImeA/s200/DSC_0164+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Chini-ka-Rauza is the tomb of Allama Afzal Khan Mullah. He was the court poet for Emperor <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jehangir">Jahangir</a>, and the tomb is a sadly decaying example of the lost method of Kashikari tilework.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtLx_qczkqWFGzcs8gDqaW1P3vlisP2m2QnZE-G8mVDRQ2IrTqveUORhNi5lVaqNLU1ONYIdx5js4aSRDnqkM3wKlV7l8K5jctT26hxi5WTCjHfZFdbSAH87uA9lKvLbPhV9sZdKUbU8/s1600/DSC_0201+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500785007408524450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtLx_qczkqWFGzcs8gDqaW1P3vlisP2m2QnZE-G8mVDRQ2IrTqveUORhNi5lVaqNLU1ONYIdx5js4aSRDnqkM3wKlV7l8K5jctT26hxi5WTCjHfZFdbSAH87uA9lKvLbPhV9sZdKUbU8/s200/DSC_0201+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Itimad-ud-Daulah is the tomb Jehangir's wife built for her father. The carvings are lovely, and you can see some of the inspiration for the Taj Mahal in the all-white marble construction, the symmetry, and the marble inlay.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGHWFqE47ILJH7bw-iOdKbueWF5U-zjFPb7OevGp3QgbmCUGfPUv-LOMyg9kJOjnBmsjDWe5n8SkHBWUMH5So8ca8OMCzdrQ176X1pwimKPUo-nttkkKs4HjV_HjPtAtySWp78BGS5NEU/s1600/DSC_0559+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500785969456696498" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGHWFqE47ILJH7bw-iOdKbueWF5U-zjFPb7OevGp3QgbmCUGfPUv-LOMyg9kJOjnBmsjDWe5n8SkHBWUMH5So8ca8OMCzdrQ176X1pwimKPUo-nttkkKs4HjV_HjPtAtySWp78BGS5NEU/s200/DSC_0559+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Agra Fort was rebuilt by Mughal Emperor <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akbar_the_Great">Akbar</a>, and is surrounded by a moat. Apparently they used to keep crocodiles, but now the water's smell is enough to keep away invaders. The second photo shows the Zenana, a courtyard surrounded by the women's apartments, and a central meeting pavilion. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEingAswcstOky-HqmZQE3sOlGd3z79IM9mR6u_CawpZa95DtTVP1mWjRrQDO-R7H3VhWfjP34paBiSPaA8Iy_0_NQepkK3itovZTpmuiwrSPuU2JmpKgnhABmN6BujKrOitM8Uf67rEwzE/s1600/Agra_0744+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500784988598931154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 132px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEingAswcstOky-HqmZQE3sOlGd3z79IM9mR6u_CawpZa95DtTVP1mWjRrQDO-R7H3VhWfjP34paBiSPaA8Iy_0_NQepkK3itovZTpmuiwrSPuU2JmpKgnhABmN6BujKrOitM8Uf67rEwzE/s200/Agra_0744+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a> Genealogy note on the Mughal Emperors: <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2010/03/delhi-old-city.html">Humayun</a> - Akbar - Jehangir - Shah Jehan - <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/12/around-aurangabad.html">Aurangzeb</a>. Akbar was generally awesome, Aurangzeb was usually awful.<br /><br />What Not to Wear! Most important: no matter what a shopkeeper says, and no matter how many places sell these pajama pants, they are <em>not</em> "Indian dress;" they are "ridiculous dress." They are meant to be worn with a knee-length <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salwar_kameez">kameez</a> (long shirt),<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXuGbXpXPbhLtDrEKrd_eZMwXueqESPZcU9pku7WVwUB_hyPxmfCrd0xXyJEsHotkAw6qhMNOUkQ3fTfehtoCXpGD9XxEjMAHiYdiLXXnOXZaY0Qy1dKoa26WVEUUjUEMvbgCDg3-hTOM/s1600/DSC_0483.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500785946127779010" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 186px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXuGbXpXPbhLtDrEKrd_eZMwXueqESPZcU9pku7WVwUB_hyPxmfCrd0xXyJEsHotkAw6qhMNOUkQ3fTfehtoCXpGD9XxEjMAHiYdiLXXnOXZaY0Qy1dKoa26WVEUUjUEMvbgCDg3-hTOM/s200/DSC_0483.jpg" border="0" /></a> but this pant style is not in fashion right now. They are certainly not meant to be worn with any Western top, and definitely not meant to be tied at the knee! Secondly, both women and men should cover their shoulders and wear long pants or a long skirt. Thirdly, wear loose clothing. It's not just modest, it's actually cooler.<br /><br />I fully support dress codes for all religious sites and other tourist attractions in India. If modest dress, from shoulders to ankles, is required to visit St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, the same requirements in India are reasonable. Foreign women who dress immodestly reinforce the unfortunate stereotype that Western women are "easy," and make it way more difficult for people like me, who hope to be respected (and not propositioned all the time) while living here. It only takes one person dressing immodestly to get their photo in the newspaper and come to represent all Western women.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-56074863678016921332010-07-20T01:50:00.000-07:002010-07-20T02:20:23.757-07:00The Pink City and the Bandh<span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >Jaipur was my second stop in Rajasthan, and had even more wonderful forts and palaces and landscapes than Udaipur. The downside was really aggressive rickshaw drivers; you couldn't walk five steps without someone offering to drive you somewhere else. I had to reassure a woman just </span><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzC1kMFJ7DsisGSo7TkhfXOQMVIA4890vVHKtV-ERkwxcF-VS65akfHy_nnt5Ie6vQIgwcfSPJmez1jS1jBTB3faKSH4cFYRQLHoTJBDEwEsmgm77rqeKhwM3FuE5rWDAuVU2Cvez8s0M/s1600/DSC_0720+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 157px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzC1kMFJ7DsisGSo7TkhfXOQMVIA4890vVHKtV-ERkwxcF-VS65akfHy_nnt5Ie6vQIgwcfSPJmez1jS1jBTB3faKSH4cFYRQLHoTJBDEwEsmgm77rqeKhwM3FuE5rWDAuVU2Cvez8s0M/s200/DSC_0720+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495908658426971682" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >starting her trip in India that the hassles were particularly bad in Jaipur, and it would only get better.</span><br /><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >In the morning, the walk for breakfast was much farther than I expected. (Guess why.) An all-India bandh, or strike, </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >was going on that day too, so nearly every shop was closed. It was eerie! 40 minutes later I was back at my hotel for breakfast. Then I started out for the Old City. Jaipur is known as the Pink City, in a</span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" > trinity with Udaipur, the White City, and Jaisalmer, (sadly not on my path) the Gold City.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BmK7z7ynfel7jQ8qeM6lP4THjD7Eb7vPO84avh4Tk0BbV3TP9pYiztNohUEk3wmr1ggxAVupBKAZx4ymm3aPKXNNlyrKx8TffjXr2IuLfUYDejwct95sQOkL-vw8AWeWFVb43X2TbHQ/s1600/DSC_0783+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BmK7z7ynfel7jQ8qeM6lP4THjD7Eb7vPO84avh4Tk0BbV3TP9pYiztNohUEk3wmr1ggxAVupBKAZx4ymm3aPKXNNlyrKx8TffjXr2IuLfUYDejwct95sQOkL-vw8AWeWFVb43X2TbHQ/s200/DSC_0783+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495908673970245474" border="0" /></a></span><br /><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >Fortunately, the historical sites were open, so I stopped at </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >Jantar Mantar. I don't know much about astronomy, but these enormous observatory structures were fascinating - and fun for photography!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbvbf2IbiELDIZYCPYGgK87VQrt8hdVHSbIsxqdDC61QP5-DgDuqcFMw9HVXpkdaobTCPTFywp4m3HENOLyxVIZY_85p7pypHnNL_V9lhHFLGczG-g3GbhI-SWs8x4_-IHoGuCLIGnm0/s1600/DSC_0830+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbvbf2IbiELDIZYCPYGgK87VQrt8hdVHSbIsxqdDC61QP5-DgDuqcFMw9HVXpkdaobTCPTFywp4m3HENOLyxVIZY_85p7pypHnNL_V9lhHFLGczG-g3GbhI-SWs8x4_-IHoGuCLIGnm0/s200/DSC_0830+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495909109899391650" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >I spent the rest of the afternoon in the City Palace, where Jaipur's royal family still lives. The best was Pitam Niwas Chowk, a courtyard with four entrances representing four seasons. </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >I've included a detail from the peacock, or monsoon gate. Then the quest to find a</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLNVyNuf8ZisBAsbGjXPfTGTXmuns__WpYDTT2qN2cmmhQvqLuNZeemimVjX6VkeT6E_hxr8sNXbLxkrK87i9llVmvc_aZjLhEeQw6V1lCtvqCdAdZ1ENuRR6jq8KT1Gwp9TiKMwyUp0/s1600/Jaipur_0858.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 175px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLNVyNuf8ZisBAsbGjXPfTGTXmuns__WpYDTT2qN2cmmhQvqLuNZeemimVjX6VkeT6E_hxr8sNXbLxkrK87i9llVmvc_aZjLhEeQw6V1lCtvqCdAdZ1ENuRR6jq8KT1Gwp9TiKMwyUp0/s200/Jaipur_0858.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495909116022633426" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" > restaurant in a closed city. On the way I met Elisa and Guillermo, a couple from Chile and Paraguay respectively. We found an open restaurant, where I had an amazing Rajasthani <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thali">thali</a> and practiced Hindi with our server, and we talked late into the night.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOwvQtdr_y3hHHvhLbqaNjhM8_rmc71GVt_mH_G-KpojW3UtfBqUd6MO3yfmJ1rSw5x2e_7Q-ne_BNjZCo32J5Bl_rI9wBdNU4PaletEvza2kkXzhXySAT1ePTKP0JZ2rf9jSDaPxDcw/s1600/Jaipur_0968+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 131px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOwvQtdr_y3hHHvhLbqaNjhM8_rmc71GVt_mH_G-KpojW3UtfBqUd6MO3yfmJ1rSw5x2e_7Q-ne_BNjZCo32J5Bl_rI9wBdNU4PaletEvza2kkXzhXySAT1ePTKP0JZ2rf9jSDaPxDcw/s200/Jaipur_0968+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495909121500270786" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >The next day I visited the Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds, built so the royal women could watch city life while remaining in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purdah">purdah</a>. It has more than 900 windows, and the latticework allows for a nice breeze. The central part of the palace is designed to resemble a crown. Several hours of shopping later, I acquired a <a href="http://crafts.indianetzone.com/meenakari.htm">meenakari</a> bangle and earrings, a couple of puppets, and some <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lac">lac</a> bangles.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiyIMwlYgx98ipGnjc8J1o4cyTGtPLWRI4uJiSqCEkgAbdqoKpeOcq7Oc96OzMQKpoLrCYI0qEictY-2tVbswpj14J79pH8HK256Vf-wrR5TZ1503hGn9x8ASQggid3M1WvNWmm9hWYXQ/s1600/DSC_0063+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiyIMwlYgx98ipGnjc8J1o4cyTGtPLWRI4uJiSqCEkgAbdqoKpeOcq7Oc96OzMQKpoLrCYI0qEictY-2tVbswpj14J79pH8HK256Vf-wrR5TZ1503hGn9x8ASQggid3M1WvNWmm9hWYXQ/s200/DSC_0063+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495908640438887666" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >The state bus schedule did not support leaving for Agra in the late afternoon, and I wanted to see Amber Fort. It was worth staying an extra night! The fort is set in the hills, so fort walls punctuated with towers wind up the rocky slopes in every direction! This courtyard is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenana">zenana</a>, the enclosure specifically built for the royal women, and surrounded by their apartments.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><br /><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUJrwpan3W5Cet7wsSANmYpU7uvKIBv8f_ZFbDK-qyttdRoIk_sffXUmG-FoBWDzTM7-4ZPJQoeDl-Dnz0e-hLivwzRSAC0ER-Q7xNkrzmmLwpIwjbEc5gZWDQBzuEdvMYlSRNGgCSQA/s1600/DSC_0090+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUJrwpan3W5Cet7wsSANmYpU7uvKIBv8f_ZFbDK-qyttdRoIk_sffXUmG-FoBWDzTM7-4ZPJQoeDl-Dnz0e-hLivwzRSAC0ER-Q7xNkrzmmLwpIwjbEc5gZWDQBzuEdvMYlSRNGgCSQA/s200/DSC_0090+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495908645048957506" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:100%;" >Much too close to closing time I hiked up the steep path to Jaigadh Fort above Amber Fort. There were even better views of the landscape here, and I could see all the way to the water palace. The fort also displayed what is apparently the largest wheel-mounted cannon in the world.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjusdqC8KpWrrO9pYe1HfEBtIoF7vocIynMzECYkdxZHqbBYQPoT3u2Dsp_EVRUEcOcP6DECtBTOEHZa9VA63pBga-dq1Yu5kgAlBjFJ_cUpm0z9PFstMrDsUXoJDUrNwDoi1US3sLaFhA/s1600/DSC_0103+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjusdqC8KpWrrO9pYe1HfEBtIoF7vocIynMzECYkdxZHqbBYQPoT3u2Dsp_EVRUEcOcP6DECtBTOEHZa9VA63pBga-dq1Yu5kgAlBjFJ_cUpm0z9PFstMrDsUXoJDUrNwDoi1US3sLaFhA/s200/DSC_0103+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495908653249391186" border="0" /></a></span></p> <span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-41770183775032859822010-07-14T22:45:00.000-07:002010-07-14T23:05:43.392-07:00Dancing and Painting in Udaipur<br /><br />I've been starting to feel like a hardened traveller, but this trip renewed my delight in travelling through India, and Rajasthan (Canadian-English speakers should pronounce with a silent "h") played a big part. It's impossible to summarize India, and Rajasthan on its own is an immense task to capture. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4XYjz2TyUB_4MKMhBH4kT-nqE1WVttIw_BtgkK6KdTmZ6U1VoZ6l-TJXc_jfjJAE2pTGXuctz6aMjICW-TdzoisOxXN4Dvper8T7A8WRIMf0gNskM7j4UO6LyqZlexi3BYk-sh6WGxAM/s1600/DSC_0340+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494005384676169186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4XYjz2TyUB_4MKMhBH4kT-nqE1WVttIw_BtgkK6KdTmZ6U1VoZ6l-TJXc_jfjJAE2pTGXuctz6aMjICW-TdzoisOxXN4Dvper8T7A8WRIMf0gNskM7j4UO6LyqZlexi3BYk-sh6WGxAM/s200/DSC_0340+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>Rajasthan demonstrates some of the extremes. It also seems that the more beautiful the sight, the more difficult to capture on camera.<br /><br />I started in Udaipur, known for its palaces. It is a major tourist town, but surprisingly low-hassle. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavNJ4U5rkt9Daqr_3bymmt_ZdYsSHELU3zU3zNNauhIDM1EGK3STIN61Lpi6roetih8pr_P2h-9j33GclmkCqZAiA0lX6IySUfusvpu_VLlaohe3C3Zq_0WuZaf3bHdFbZhrNKV6Bt-o/s1600/DSC_0427+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494005386146889394" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 196px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavNJ4U5rkt9Daqr_3bymmt_ZdYsSHELU3zU3zNNauhIDM1EGK3STIN61Lpi6roetih8pr_P2h-9j33GclmkCqZAiA0lX6IySUfusvpu_VLlaohe3C3Zq_0WuZaf3bHdFbZhrNKV6Bt-o/s200/DSC_0427+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>(Completely opposite to Jaipur, my next stop.) Two palaces were built in the middle of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raja">raja</a>-made lake, although I didn't visit either (one is a high-end hotel now, so no riff-raff allowed). The monsoon arrived the night before I did, so the first morning I walked across the lake bed, and the next evening it was underwater. I understand that the lake hasn't been full in three years, though.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PX1gBckPb2zrT3AMyuO6ZcGFQumXVi5p2bHuHUTft5BIgpd2GoAhTqh5Jtfbjq0VDEGUIujL8KKM374e_kPxXFqiyCKLobdL9nxP8qkAPbnK6vsnH2ho8qWptf7KhgHclruLIkCUa54/s1600/DSC_0475+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494005395441801746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PX1gBckPb2zrT3AMyuO6ZcGFQumXVi5p2bHuHUTft5BIgpd2GoAhTqh5Jtfbjq0VDEGUIujL8KKM374e_kPxXFqiyCKLobdL9nxP8qkAPbnK6vsnH2ho8qWptf7KhgHclruLIkCUa54/s200/DSC_0475+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>The Udaipur City Palace had <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresco_painting">fresco painting</a>, the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_miniature">miniature painting</a>, mirrored tile mosaics, and European tile work. Apparently the prince walked across the parking lot just as I arrived, but I only saw his back. I was fascinated by the part of the palace built around a hill, so there is a tree-filled garden on the top floor. You can see it on the right side of the palace photo.<br /><br />After the palace I shopped for miniature painting reproductions, made <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfxRP_TJiLUZn_FzHNehPx1o0ZSKab8hQaQLy-sTqDmD1zd_B8cA_x75umZ3k69hU9FsJdWOnRkA5rLXQ1wJ_lFDfpct7dvrnITVD_IG-aqBWNvZlkngopWFX1ZjmhfLgFOsfHcaE7po/s1600/DSC_0506+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494005401135021170" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfxRP_TJiLUZn_FzHNehPx1o0ZSKab8hQaQLy-sTqDmD1zd_B8cA_x75umZ3k69hU9FsJdWOnRkA5rLXQ1wJ_lFDfpct7dvrnITVD_IG-aqBWNvZlkngopWFX1ZjmhfLgFOsfHcaE7po/s200/DSC_0506+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>popular during the Mughal empire. I also stumbled upon a wedding band, with the required white horse and... apparently bagpipes.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeibbzFqPXRWSRp_AXFK0xv7tz0xoyzOSftz2yfaFhxQitojnBj5ug0GhHGvda2QNPvPp8TYSvK3Qo42YFQQc5mtsY5YRiGecNeldg07r728GTIQAolqQ4JFZ7oGQaW7lPPSA2w5kxT7A/s1600/DSC_0615+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494005408050452434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 136px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeibbzFqPXRWSRp_AXFK0xv7tz0xoyzOSftz2yfaFhxQitojnBj5ug0GhHGvda2QNPvPp8TYSvK3Qo42YFQQc5mtsY5YRiGecNeldg07r728GTIQAolqQ4JFZ7oGQaW7lPPSA2w5kxT7A/s200/DSC_0615+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>In the evening I saw incredible performances of Rajasthani classical dance, which included women dancing with pots of fire balanced on their heads, puppet dances, and finished with the most experienced dancer dancing with up to five pots balanced on her head. Because of the rains, we sat inside, and apparently she dances with twelve pots when the ceiling doesn't limit her! Of course the best dancers are not the thin young girls, but the solid older aunties.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLmltCTqG3pu_XI3aZkaxmiw-dmIpKC9rwKlWwsXUC3ZWsJDDhvP6weRn2O_y9gfvrqYCjrP2g_Ia9b8QGbTMM40BMdWNlG3Ck35F-6hAFxnxFGJuMzwBAnFPc7p-dWC_gOX_pch4iBs/s1600/DSC_0657+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494006211086518546" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLmltCTqG3pu_XI3aZkaxmiw-dmIpKC9rwKlWwsXUC3ZWsJDDhvP6weRn2O_y9gfvrqYCjrP2g_Ia9b8QGbTMM40BMdWNlG3Ck35F-6hAFxnxFGJuMzwBAnFPc7p-dWC_gOX_pch4iBs/s200/DSC_0657+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>The next day I visited the Bagore ki Haveli, a mansion on the bank of the lake. Most interesting were the puppet gallery, and the rooms reconstructed in the 18th century style. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6ABfzAUVBa0NbhGqNqUsQA-mb978DsMyNqtA6emJePDdvlBg8Vn9YxroeSicoT4rbEZToz0Z07TyoRTlE-AAqW_Wj3sV5F3w6Cwz7zIYYWjM07DAzRSwrxKxrVy13ajzLwPAIAbd_BY/s1600/DSC_0643+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494006205417850514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6ABfzAUVBa0NbhGqNqUsQA-mb978DsMyNqtA6emJePDdvlBg8Vn9YxroeSicoT4rbEZToz0Z07TyoRTlE-AAqW_Wj3sV5F3w6Cwz7zIYYWjM07DAzRSwrxKxrVy13ajzLwPAIAbd_BY/s200/DSC_0643+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFT4l2A7tZYco-Zlqo8XAPb9wxQFFq4YBdLBRjznZunQBoH_IdaOHrkPimHca_jDMfYY7YVVLAhkCbr9vyrMaIGccPpHRMvY2plI1A3nRAbjata8zRCYK_LQ_EMIhP-CFU3gMET5IJiI/s1600/DSC_0695+copy.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8NeoAxoYGWE7jY_dXlK3ZTxS7QbeaJoRB5qxtKvSnGZRGEoiJNfnJX30UXGuTkbV_6Ei2WB-TUy_cd2GosMZt3D7O-SHCmcA4k_ftThsi_tm1beJQ9s0ztfAWBCVS2JqC0DMhlIElaI/s1600/DSC_0684+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494006218756165090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 166px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8NeoAxoYGWE7jY_dXlK3ZTxS7QbeaJoRB5qxtKvSnGZRGEoiJNfnJX30UXGuTkbV_6Ei2WB-TUy_cd2GosMZt3D7O-SHCmcA4k_ftThsi_tm1beJQ9s0ztfAWBCVS2JqC0DMhlIElaI/s200/DSC_0684+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />In the afternoon I took a miniature painting lesson, and used my previous art training to impress everyone. Then the rains came again, so I chatted with a hotel owner while watching the water cascade down the steps outside. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmyGbAXVhpLXPF5Fb-IoVuR2xSe-Z17KZ-llGCxBCnMxwPpKVkHvUewevm9PFfR_8Nl8jHg1xxJjn-vIY4iHpCev2vsn5D2oZUZJbK73KmlLfVCsJIgf61kv7DuO-6VZaUf64iVB2zkk/s1600/DSC_0695+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494007565378550690" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 133px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmyGbAXVhpLXPF5Fb-IoVuR2xSe-Z17KZ-llGCxBCnMxwPpKVkHvUewevm9PFfR_8Nl8jHg1xxJjn-vIY4iHpCev2vsn5D2oZUZJbK73KmlLfVCsJIgf61kv7DuO-6VZaUf64iVB2zkk/s200/DSC_0695+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a>A great dinner at Sunrise restaurant, then moving on!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-58195978966028969052010-07-01T05:28:00.000-07:002010-07-08T04:55:51.215-07:00From Backwaters to PalacesKollam (formerly Quillon) is a small town in Kerala. I blew my daily budget on an expensive place called Tamarind because no rooms were available -- off-season renovations again. Including traveling for a day, being foiled again by Lonely Planet's maps, and having my sandal break, I decided to take the rest of the day off to nurse my cold. Anyway, t<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikeQIY_dnhzduE3vc66ZABCEVt1iCqa-xWL3xC84qvMZmNONfigdUTT7e2SnYqQ4QYzDA8zJEgXKkWPmi4UjL21zEzlX7-NHeCZBJyhKg7Mu6QBfqeGGHi5GYTOL_NldiPL6YM84_5l0/s1600/DSC_0153_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikeQIY_dnhzduE3vc66ZABCEVt1iCqa-xWL3xC84qvMZmNONfigdUTT7e2SnYqQ4QYzDA8zJEgXKkWPmi4UjL21zEzlX7-NHeCZBJyhKg7Mu6QBfqeGGHi5GYTOL_NldiPL6YM84_5l0/s200/DSC_0153_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924337057365186" border="0" /></a>he place was really nice: air conditioning, room service, a really big bed, and a view of the lake.<br /><br />The next morning I took the Kerala State Tourism backwaters tour. The backwaters are a series of lakes and canals linking communities and rural industry. The best part was the quiet; India is noisy! <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmoSPPFl4s4Ch3tsnnw8fR1tBZD8cPnUq3AzLGWookToWbfgpUuhH8MEYyBDyHj_qywFp4fkkWZEOe60eOZk4uZLp9jmVd6oAnPQtiz8vzMWfL-x97-Nxh9FWQeoYzeMmiFd4p1QvRv8/s1600/DSC_0202_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmoSPPFl4s4Ch3tsnnw8fR1tBZD8cPnUq3AzLGWookToWbfgpUuhH8MEYyBDyHj_qywFp4fkkWZEOe60eOZk4uZLp9jmVd6oAnPQtiz8vzMWfL-x97-Nxh9FWQeoYzeMmiFd4p1QvRv8/s200/DSC_0202_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924356539367922" border="0" /></a>Our guide poled me and a man from New Zealand through the canals, pointing out sights and stopping regularly for chai, coconut water, and a closer look at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coir">coir</a> weaving, boat-making, prawn farming, fishing, and mussel farming industries.<br /><br />We saw many fruits and spices growing, including pineapple, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsYtbt54pR0L0o87RgwCMboeVmhyphenhyphenTx36RP36PkIlXal37xOCSvYIjwhRa9EEaammpD_Ec5E8c9-61Z2AK11WeLMZaKq9BAM8VhRJ1u9keCB0b3GbE1jYuRHaKP9lcaiBky7I1NEVRtx4/s1600/DSC_0191_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsYtbt54pR0L0o87RgwCMboeVmhyphenhyphenTx36RP36PkIlXal37xOCSvYIjwhRa9EEaammpD_Ec5E8c9-61Z2AK11WeLMZaKq9BAM8VhRJ1u9keCB0b3GbE1jYuRHaKP9lcaiBky7I1NEVRtx4/s200/DSC_0191_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924348410338130" border="0" /></a>cashews, black pepper, chili pepper, ginger, tapioca, jackfruit, and nutmeg. We also saw snakes swimming twice.<br /><br />Travelling when you can't breathe thro<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdsWfbPfEyjCzpD_VVVo339WxlDuuYLae9lK9klPZB6M-0hFa6ac_OJR4AfEqz0b43Cl3FQlhOTaLimcRWC-vkb6beLD2p-EExcvIsJcPyKI4bVhbC_INVd4An00MIQU7UbqE7NaYGw80/s1600/DSC_0206_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdsWfbPfEyjCzpD_VVVo339WxlDuuYLae9lK9klPZB6M-0hFa6ac_OJR4AfEqz0b43Cl3FQlhOTaLimcRWC-vkb6beLD2p-EExcvIsJcPyKI4bVhbC_INVd4An00MIQU7UbqE7NaYGw80/s200/DSC_0206_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924365859451954" border="0" /></a>ugh your nose is a real chore, and arriving in a small town at one in the morning, after a 9.5 hour bus ride, is definitely not high on my travel list. But the room was decent, and I slept another half-day in Calicut before moving on. I was impressed with the roads in the state of Kerala, and the bus station washroom in Sultanbatheri was the nicest I have seen in India.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4WvRbvnVWCyoqJqqxkLCCqoCAb1tSmVFKr7ZSLjc9IyJh86We4d6kaiS5relW4T8yVYiIs8nFAy5qeFcDs7czQrUI29A6tq_ojgizelYDUMXCZoPcbB1LSYeMHookJevs8R_9ASiIGAE/s1600/DSC_0253+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4WvRbvnVWCyoqJqqxkLCCqoCAb1tSmVFKr7ZSLjc9IyJh86We4d6kaiS5relW4T8yVYiIs8nFAy5qeFcDs7czQrUI29A6tq_ojgizelYDUMXCZoPcbB1LSYeMHookJevs8R_9ASiIGAE/s200/DSC_0253+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924376113824770" border="0" /></a>Mysore, in Karnataka, is known as the City of Palaces, and Mysore Palace, built during the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wodeyar_dynasty">Wodeyar</a> dynasty, is the grandest one. Funniest moment: reading a quotation from an Englishwoman and travel writer, describing the palace as the ideal fantasy of an oriental palace. Actually, it is exactly that, because it was designed by an Englishman... is that life imitating art, or the other way around!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocJuNsZ1gAuc8YbqwepbRVr3iiN6pfI-6L29AXTczvf39dFzRGPCZucpuLooPmScYhHB6bnV15qgtdTwrHgdwij-ANa6qpl79-WkQ1_JdqED6pz3Q9erHyGUi8MxQ0RpMs_CapwzjaP0/s1600/DSC_0274+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocJuNsZ1gAuc8YbqwepbRVr3iiN6pfI-6L29AXTczvf39dFzRGPCZucpuLooPmScYhHB6bnV15qgtdTwrHgdwij-ANa6qpl79-WkQ1_JdqED6pz3Q9erHyGUi8MxQ0RpMs_CapwzjaP0/s200/DSC_0274+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924743902748738" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWN_OxUnWyOFt4pjuJNLXlk0qSiIQxP6-tKWh1ipmIYecHtp4AdG0ROrn6uDqRxMRL9c1IDLK_2V9yhCGw8pJvfulsJsKIDKf0gDquBIBNC8RYfWctNukqiQepmTra1soxFuxfI7daq10/s1600/DSC_0267+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWN_OxUnWyOFt4pjuJNLXlk0qSiIQxP6-tKWh1ipmIYecHtp4AdG0ROrn6uDqRxMRL9c1IDLK_2V9yhCGw8pJvfulsJsKIDKf0gDquBIBNC8RYfWctNukqiQepmTra1soxFuxfI7daq10/s200/DSC_0267+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924741501016882" border="0" /></a>Madurai is also famous for its incense and essential oils industry, and I found myself buying 10 types of essential oils in the middle of the market. The market was filled with fruits (including a whole aisle of banana vendors), vegetables, spices, flowers, incense and oil, and general hardware. And people! Even nuns and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hijra">hijra</a> have to buy groceries sometimes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7fSM7_d4gLX1AlEF8p-R0W5ztk_Il-LK50Ex5vKys1q7FQUiUUPLxdh0poJ6carS3yY6uc8AVXtutu5zOkkqEvvhQJkM1jNKSHXB4RYGGccT1Ej0e5TA0WWfDA3RZ6b4qqZ884aWoIo/s1600/DSC_0305+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7fSM7_d4gLX1AlEF8p-R0W5ztk_Il-LK50Ex5vKys1q7FQUiUUPLxdh0poJ6carS3yY6uc8AVXtutu5zOkkqEvvhQJkM1jNKSHXB4RYGGccT1Ej0e5TA0WWfDA3RZ6b4qqZ884aWoIo/s200/DSC_0305+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488924752879842242" border="0" /></a>Finally I visited the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya, a museum highlighting tribal and rural cultural arts. Everything was fascinating, but I loved the fun terracotta roof tiles, with quirky beings sitting on them. Then, a 20-hour train ride back to Pune ended my journey to the south.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-63056640330846951012010-06-30T12:51:00.000-07:002010-06-30T13:47:33.142-07:00Three Seas MeetIn <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRp6KNKypMKVEwR9VpxRITlVIhzKqdnNA8_Op6PDKgfQSZySp8SBqIohLzVj_Jgfen24rqsBN6GQ17UEXkPdxp8IPzj22flntXy9DOftVC7bs-tAt0Wk4GPhr1S69TXA8wzDygBq8YAPo/s1600/DSC_0011+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRp6KNKypMKVEwR9VpxRITlVIhzKqdnNA8_Op6PDKgfQSZySp8SBqIohLzVj_Jgfen24rqsBN6GQ17UEXkPdxp8IPzj22flntXy9DOftVC7bs-tAt0Wk4GPhr1S69TXA8wzDygBq8YAPo/s200/DSC_0011+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488664833210763602" border="0" /></a>Madurai, M.K. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohandas_Karamchand_Gandhi">Gandhi </a>made his decision to only wear <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khadi">khadi</a>, Indian-made cloth. I wanted to buy some clothing made from khadi, but apparently the only things made from this cloth are <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungi">lungis</a>, which are um... pieces of cloth.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWYeAnIC1XKmm7YQF-EkufbuDK0WYiR61wVTa4RLOtUhxneGJ9224VCMdM8Ms4_RJrU-rmlbyhvYYF5nmObYdyNkkHdj14f-1O6PxV9nFI2QBNwaKE9KplHKxlgVKEdizVesLvljpsS3s/s1600/DSC_0033+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWYeAnIC1XKmm7YQF-EkufbuDK0WYiR61wVTa4RLOtUhxneGJ9224VCMdM8Ms4_RJrU-rmlbyhvYYF5nmObYdyNkkHdj14f-1O6PxV9nFI2QBNwaKE9KplHKxlgVKEdizVesLvljpsS3s/s200/DSC_0033+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488664833898935378" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The temple in Madurai was amazing, but it's difficult to depict it here. When I was standing in front of the temple, looking at all the unique colourful statues on the towers was fascinating; looking at my photos all the statues start to look the same.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhww0Qu1a_6FrdPjh-be0ROsJFm72s08dUZRjKX470hEkAF68Rzgjc_YPG0OMQFQL6rQB-EvWJfyhh-IMQkGIw9E3zRXegYLGnNafb8Ks-_WWf8I5gPe4eLGVPVDLsUvCX5aruKhrEp-XQ/s1600/DSC_0993+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhww0Qu1a_6FrdPjh-be0ROsJFm72s08dUZRjKX470hEkAF68Rzgjc_YPG0OMQFQL6rQB-EvWJfyhh-IMQkGIw9E3zRXegYLGnNafb8Ks-_WWf8I5gPe4eLGVPVDLsUvCX5aruKhrEp-XQ/s200/DSC_0993+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488666924414402706" border="0" /></a>Inside, the temple had fascinating paintings on the ceiling, again every one unique, and it was filled with stone statues. Sadly, non-Hindus are not allowed to take the goddess's <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darshan">darshan</a>.<br /><br />I also slept much more than I thought necessary in Madurai.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1mBQnsHu8TS8ZaP6CXtjPefd285T43XFnD1r5kt1g-N9Dmx2wmNpmm3Ob09WddgtW00oUm8exnsO9TWb0IS63RyMCG1QYClV0pTOT0yaL7pvH-SidnvxKCj1dkHO1vqP-zgE6_UBw6I/s1600/DSC_0078+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1mBQnsHu8TS8ZaP6CXtjPefd285T43XFnD1r5kt1g-N9Dmx2wmNpmm3Ob09WddgtW00oUm8exnsO9TWb0IS63RyMCG1QYClV0pTOT0yaL7pvH-SidnvxKCj1dkHO1vqP-zgE6_UBw6I/s200/DSC_0078+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488664841816467042" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Kanyakumari is the southernmost point of India! It is the point where the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bay_of_bengal">Bay of Bengal </a>to the east, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_ocean">Indian Ocean</a> to the south, and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arabian_sea">Arabian Sea</a> to the west, all meet. It is also the closest to the equator I have ever been: 8 degrees north latitude. I met Alex on the train, a Chinese guy working in Delhi, and we spent the day talking about our experiences living as foreigners in India.<br /><br />The town is named for Kanyakumari, the virgin goddess who won a battle against the demon. Her temple is lovely inside, as is the goddess, but photos are not allowed inside, and the outside is generic.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqIoHwpsAUcedOkVHW_huVLLDkIzqNmq4jLF3PdKadaAHkdD9NeiYQit5QtEr7DNk0u6Te6dEGzMsYvkad75w7SC0rmXI67ED4jgaie3cAQfNglnSpR4Z2jnp4la9WuKNr8goFk4GHFo/s1600/DSC_0083+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqIoHwpsAUcedOkVHW_huVLLDkIzqNmq4jLF3PdKadaAHkdD9NeiYQit5QtEr7DNk0u6Te6dEGzMsYvkad75w7SC0rmXI67ED4jgaie3cAQfNglnSpR4Z2jnp4la9WuKNr8goFk4GHFo/s200/DSC_0083+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488664849796042386" border="0" /></a><br />This photo is on the ferry to the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivekenanda">Swami Vivekananda</a> Rock memorial, where Vivekananda apparently meditated for three days before developing his Hindu reform philosophies. Beside Alex is a young man who told me about the truth as taught by Vivekananda, set off my proselytizer alarms, and eventually bought me a book. Beside that island is a huge statue of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiruvalluvar">Tiruvalluvar</a>, who makes his <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2010/06/chennai.html">second appearance</a> in my trip.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5qVzuWS7vsm2VCbuPjy3kF44RRFcDT_IxSUrZ7NK9QMoJTKcEOeE1Vsy8WRBzMc7OCsrZazXl_vsI59Y3tlMqbKHg8fMd0WqcFnSYWkB7tiAre0BAitDcNT4JaJCB9RdHAVX8_iApc0/s1600/DSC_0094_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5qVzuWS7vsm2VCbuPjy3kF44RRFcDT_IxSUrZ7NK9QMoJTKcEOeE1Vsy8WRBzMc7OCsrZazXl_vsI59Y3tlMqbKHg8fMd0WqcFnSYWkB7tiAre0BAitDcNT4JaJCB9RdHAVX8_iApc0/s200/DSC_0094_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488664857641035426" border="0" /></a>I visited the Gandhi memorial, where his ashes were exhibited before being scattered in the sea. Important photos from his life are reproduced on the walls, but otherwise it's uninspiring. The Vivekananda museum was closed for renovations, a disappointing but benign side-effect of the monsoon season.<br /><br />The day I visited, the waves were incredibly powerful, and I watched for a long time from the observation tower.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRyKIYYra1B5Sj20jNlqiBQgSvC4yoxjPd5oYxqXJHLV5FLnrLwR-IQPP04R2iNnlzmyTnbkF337V6HztBEjl695ItNgXDpWM4rMNWcMDx3x3WPcFQcGYRanMoUuzZ5CSNE0V0A0eKchU/s1600/DSC_0133_01+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRyKIYYra1B5Sj20jNlqiBQgSvC4yoxjPd5oYxqXJHLV5FLnrLwR-IQPP04R2iNnlzmyTnbkF337V6HztBEjl695ItNgXDpWM4rMNWcMDx3x3WPcFQcGYRanMoUuzZ5CSNE0V0A0eKchU/s200/DSC_0133_01+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488666913092028082" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I also discovered that sleeping so much was an omen of the terrible head cold to come, which marks my 6th (or is it 7th now?) cold or illness since arriving in India.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-50241785185094679952010-06-28T06:27:00.001-07:002010-06-28T10:52:11.756-07:00Continuing Down the East CoastFrom Chennai it was a short trip south to Mamallapuram (also known as Mahabalipuram) which is a little tourist town built around some of the most excellent sculpture in India. I also highly <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMwmFz7aQ_UuBX7cRkqjtQI2TY6qS9IMww3d_c_LxH5E90mBXkHSI7H2VuKxmEYxyB7PERpjUeGOZu0T7LB_QzSbogSQQXNu1G8U5z_EGw9xWOPffXsMlp5HF_CY06ztuBHjWaiU04Dc/s1600/DSC_0687+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMwmFz7aQ_UuBX7cRkqjtQI2TY6qS9IMww3d_c_LxH5E90mBXkHSI7H2VuKxmEYxyB7PERpjUeGOZu0T7LB_QzSbogSQQXNu1G8U5z_EGw9xWOPffXsMlp5HF_CY06ztuBHjWaiU04Dc/s200/DSC_0687+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881455530598434" border="0" /></a>recommend Le Yogi restaurant, which satisfied my lasagna craving. Here the monsoon slowed me down for half a day, and from here on, I never saw a sunrise or sunset because of overcast skies.<br /><br />It's difficult to decide which carvings were my favourites. There were many similarities with the <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2010/01/boulders-ruins-hampi.html">Hampi ruins</a>, but the carvings at Mamallapuram were more realistic, used different perspectives <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD5KmUoWO-yeq8mUO1TfMPIxxE5z7tGt_mIrJsJadOBChQenc7QWUluodva6PyNQNQ-SK-VmKNmjUmqENPHdLHDUMrNfWaQKfQxvCjV8nmyAqee1uaS33Ny66t_6no3qbbl2UJGF87IOU/s1600/DSC_0646+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD5KmUoWO-yeq8mUO1TfMPIxxE5z7tGt_mIrJsJadOBChQenc7QWUluodva6PyNQNQ-SK-VmKNmjUmqENPHdLHDUMrNfWaQKfQxvCjV8nmyAqee1uaS33Ny66t_6no3qbbl2UJGF87IOU/s200/DSC_0646+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881452092322546" border="0" /></a>from the traditional ones, and carried more of a sense of humour and whimsy. Beautiful carvings of elephants stand out on Arjuna's Penance. I loved the cat standing on his hind legs, at the left, under the elephant's tusks; he seems to be imitating Arjuna (who is outside the frame). The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C4%81ga">Nagas</a> on the far left are also fascinating. A temple relief of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durga">Durga</a> fighting stood out for the composition, and the way each person is depicted uniquely.<br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krishna">Krishna's</a> butter <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4oMJ5yTkVG8u9N7M2m9t0bXBEFXvp8aOkOFiWU4M-FqAcd4YjIDLl_7HMEPj_naGEYpI1z4KXkew0CzbNHoBjtpM6BdbbPiyXHayEN5vBgA4RTVI8jYZPpfeC3_OOo5OHebPrgFlWFs/s1600/DSC_0560+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4oMJ5yTkVG8u9N7M2m9t0bXBEFXvp8aOkOFiWU4M-FqAcd4YjIDLl_7HMEPj_naGEYpI1z4KXkew0CzbNHoBjtpM6BdbbPiyXHayEN5vBgA4RTVI8jYZPpfeC3_OOo5OHebPrgFlWFs/s200/DSC_0560+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881441904995634" border="0" /></a>ball, a huge stone apparently balanced on the slope, is popular for photos. It's only round from one angle.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDv0t70OPpdkZX2NqNjfL9zR1SwZtiFgKZmn_VlJpy8oUATAOAQNbejbEseElwrz1HIAeNWFSMd6CsQLQZLcllAd5klOmdWoFOGIvA-Y2BKI6-J-Hqp-IfMsaGGnEroZMsprv4xWRqAk/s1600/DSC_0769+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDv0t70OPpdkZX2NqNjfL9zR1SwZtiFgKZmn_VlJpy8oUATAOAQNbejbEseElwrz1HIAeNWFSMd6CsQLQZLcllAd5klOmdWoFOGIvA-Y2BKI6-J-Hqp-IfMsaGGnEroZMsprv4xWRqAk/s200/DSC_0769+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881461811195970" border="0" /></a>The Shore Temple, two monolithic temples carved near the sea, is also unique, despite the extensive damage from sand, salt, water, and wind.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmdqvVWMZBidI8qLH33QZK7VSr79LAGadKBlu5BCgaqlKSz776DS-RrbZbDdnsKPZp3wVdS8aNUQA990VLwrjH-4HXX8H-pXIY6BMo54_05SEbbZn6DIcPqnBkEdFYSYBUV4E8C1iOzY/s1600/DSC_0842+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmdqvVWMZBidI8qLH33QZK7VSr79LAGadKBlu5BCgaqlKSz776DS-RrbZbDdnsKPZp3wVdS8aNUQA990VLwrjH-4HXX8H-pXIY6BMo54_05SEbbZn6DIcPqnBkEdFYSYBUV4E8C1iOzY/s200/DSC_0842+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881469150899202" border="0" /></a>The Five Rakshas (Chariots) are also each unique monolithic temples, and the giant stone lion, elephant, and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nandi_%28bull%29">nandi</a> (Shiva's bull mount) add personality to the site. These were covered by sand for centuries before their rediscovery.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwMrqlqlYun7bKe80HSdERzuWZxrq9lHIM7x0xBY57B2uhbN-Jj2FOrgOzi-kL1IKE4InBn7i9pYe04zbCcNtLdMHbO7rmyW7IyVZRo_A95YNYlTn1Sn721J6TWNSe6wW6ADCQkwi02o/s1600/DSC_0941+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwMrqlqlYun7bKe80HSdERzuWZxrq9lHIM7x0xBY57B2uhbN-Jj2FOrgOzi-kL1IKE4InBn7i9pYe04zbCcNtLdMHbO7rmyW7IyVZRo_A95YNYlTn1Sn721J6TWNSe6wW6ADCQkwi02o/s200/DSC_0941+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881852064877298" border="0" /></a>A little farther south Pondicherry, one of the French colonies, still looks the most "European" of all the cities in India. Many heritage buildings are now under restoration. I spent a lot of time watching the waves roll down the beach. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVsque1rWvVKk_aeomfJFyjU3Pt1iRh85E4MaMcQn5f2LQ-UIKzInI2nG2o62YJiCfrauQqFhK9tgUUiWui-WOAdKZyOpba1CWtkffg_srOs5hrumyKWt3nC0anUn2u6YT6LbH5KfsQY/s1600/DSC_0964+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 130px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVsque1rWvVKk_aeomfJFyjU3Pt1iRh85E4MaMcQn5f2LQ-UIKzInI2nG2o62YJiCfrauQqFhK9tgUUiWui-WOAdKZyOpba1CWtkffg_srOs5hrumyKWt3nC0anUn2u6YT6LbH5KfsQY/s200/DSC_0964+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881855487585410" border="0" /></a>I was delighted to discover the only city in India that has regular street signs--this is a rare trilingual sign: Tamil, English, and French.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDTRdemuTFSsL5toMMl9fiw0rxstTGbvmcnqs8K26nkyzPd3bILXC9tLY1L_X-2N5JH_Nw_lVwa1P1st9CVKXX6CSbW0y71RCufq_g4wXeEBurkHmOqR0PvUPF5zXlb4Wjb5G3SoM9fbw/s1600/DSC_0886+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDTRdemuTFSsL5toMMl9fiw0rxstTGbvmcnqs8K26nkyzPd3bILXC9tLY1L_X-2N5JH_Nw_lVwa1P1st9CVKXX6CSbW0y71RCufq_g4wXeEBurkHmOqR0PvUPF5zXlb4Wjb5G3SoM9fbw/s200/DSC_0886+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881825471604178" border="0" /></a>The monsoon blasted me here: it was the most humid place I've ever been ("breaking a sweat" was the same as "drenched in sweat"), and one night it rained so hard it flooded the street. The photos didn't turn out so well, but hopefully you can see that the street is water instead of pavement!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrK8dCzEwHCBvR7BTwNjDu9PFv1FVLFVGQ-rr7Qokr_couK5RYmudorREy2QC86M7tkKaoGWb466xAkgh165QSA0_Tuk1z7oDPOHXIhE8VguhXZfrhb0lIauFNrgc5V1PTT-53Bw7xRA4/s1600/DSC_0905+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrK8dCzEwHCBvR7BTwNjDu9PFv1FVLFVGQ-rr7Qokr_couK5RYmudorREy2QC86M7tkKaoGWb466xAkgh165QSA0_Tuk1z7oDPOHXIhE8VguhXZfrhb0lIauFNrgc5V1PTT-53Bw7xRA4/s200/DSC_0905+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881832795861938" border="0" /></a>At the Sacred Heart Cathedral I discovered a big event; the courtyard was filled with altar boys and men in robes, and women in saris. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwyfVFinY9g5HF9OYhCqHtARHAxZNJyokzWs7xILr6hirN2MifwnJhZ5u4FH3OncvVLicdeGDaZ98viTVDsrMPVj1zx3V5n2vC5Co3Tn850t5P9HekSf_q65nhAbl4XWz3irBetyre6A/s1600/DSC_0920+copy.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwyfVFinY9g5HF9OYhCqHtARHAxZNJyokzWs7xILr6hirN2MifwnJhZ5u4FH3OncvVLicdeGDaZ98viTVDsrMPVj1zx3V5n2vC5Co3Tn850t5P9HekSf_q65nhAbl4XWz3irBetyre6A/s200/DSC_0920+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487881836107061266" border="0" /></a>Then a VIP arrived, and a little girl scattered flower petals under his feet. My knowledge of Roman Catholic religious garb is a little shaky, but after a little research I believe this is the Archbishop of Pondicherry.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RAkHCPJC4PHThSgq2tK-evPf_SdDvtNxHFNGO3jA3Fx171AV4PoSNh5euURx0HoSog3XksnJqm0-voKGqBpvpOkMUh5cUOB-e7MF6QT0gEJ0pXIOi-JapIXIRjKbyKX32q5yuHEjKPw/s1600/DSC_0974+copy.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RAkHCPJC4PHThSgq2tK-evPf_SdDvtNxHFNGO3jA3Fx171AV4PoSNh5euURx0HoSog3XksnJqm0-voKGqBpvpOkMUh5cUOB-e7MF6QT0gEJ0pXIOi-JapIXIRjKbyKX32q5yuHEjKPw/s200/DSC_0974+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487882755170529826" border="0" /></a>Pondicherry has another remnant of the French colonial period. Police here wear a uniform unique in all of India: they add a distinctly French red cap.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-52467684449312415372010-06-25T02:49:00.000-07:002010-06-25T03:27:53.361-07:00Chennai<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg7YnjsmqXJCMXJGILsofMKxzAjQq3ztrvTGvvgOSPPoi3KzMiswSYWTGtcSi5Q_50YbzzRUzMSuW9Qtzutx3bteortRlDc5me6wo2Q_oM6227KwC6nfp9V3QKWTY_iybICu-r47I7k8/s1600/DSC_0406+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg7YnjsmqXJCMXJGILsofMKxzAjQq3ztrvTGvvgOSPPoi3KzMiswSYWTGtcSi5Q_50YbzzRUzMSuW9Qtzutx3bteortRlDc5me6wo2Q_oM6227KwC6nfp9V3QKWTY_iybICu-r47I7k8/s200/DSC_0406+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651086741700530" border="0" /></a>Looking back at my stay in Chennai (formerly Madras) in Tamil Nadu state, I'm surprised that I did so much in just a day and a half. When I arrived I had to search for a hotel with rooms, but then I had the cutest little room ever! Recently remodeled, it had blue floral tiles, pink molding, one window in blue glass and one in green! I also met the harbinger of the monsoon, in the form of a very welcome overcast sky. It dropped the temperature to almost bearable, although the humidity was still ridiculous. Early in my trip, the heat really made me surly!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnm233xPNPUYsXErU7uHNppGHwX3sIUOl975ZknGGZG6RxEuf2tUN4TFHej5SnOEVl6KKzggebl_atNoPQchMYJ2en6ImqWPmZmBNcNNje_ohYjFQCCnvKPu7TcIZZUZfY5nzTXQpCwCQ/s1600/DSC_0364+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnm233xPNPUYsXErU7uHNppGHwX3sIUOl975ZknGGZG6RxEuf2tUN4TFHej5SnOEVl6KKzggebl_atNoPQchMYJ2en6ImqWPmZmBNcNNje_ohYjFQCCnvKPu7TcIZZUZfY5nzTXQpCwCQ/s200/DSC_0364+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651066508721106" border="0" /></a>I started at the Kapaleeshwarar Hindu temple, and made the change to typical <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dravidian_people">Dravidian</a> architecture. Colourfully painted deities and mythical creatures cover every inch of the temple towers. It was a drastic contrast with northern Hindu architecture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4h8ZAhQiu_gwd96M9mwSOd0jPI_KmGyxzz17NJBp-bC8mZ74kBDRknM_qbY39vPGmAE5C74jiq5lYtl8p7lcohAHytCfahzv-OCmumaWkbwgjLFLPpWC2fQS0oMCNppGki4GGUHJZto4/s1600/DSC_0335+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4h8ZAhQiu_gwd96M9mwSOd0jPI_KmGyxzz17NJBp-bC8mZ74kBDRknM_qbY39vPGmAE5C74jiq5lYtl8p7lcohAHytCfahzv-OCmumaWkbwgjLFLPpWC2fQS0oMCNppGki4GGUHJZto4/s200/DSC_0335+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651058211590050" border="0" /></a>Christianity is more popular in the south, and Chennai has two important churches. St. Mary's is located in Fort St. George, and is the oldest existing English church in India. It was quiet and friendly, although the European memorial statuary seemed out of place in India.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrTYRngEQea0_opCPW7q9kGSL1ZTBt8kRhDw8G9G3k67EZUNIDT63qJ-7aP53mtPUG3LduqzYxKN2jKPLGbNSxzNIkI8eOp7EvlBId4fDJzMGSgh00qiWhdCy0RuVrd1tpUYO4RVQnpA/s1600/DSC_0387+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrTYRngEQea0_opCPW7q9kGSL1ZTBt8kRhDw8G9G3k67EZUNIDT63qJ-7aP53mtPUG3LduqzYxKN2jKPLGbNSxzNIkI8eOp7EvlBId4fDJzMGSgh00qiWhdCy0RuVrd1tpUYO4RVQnpA/s200/DSC_0387+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651075941342674" border="0" /></a>St. Thomas the Apostle Cathedral was built over the tomb of one of Jesus' disciples, and is only one of three in the whole world to do so. Apparently "Doubting Thomas" came to India to preach Christianity, and was the source of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Syrian_Christian">Syrian Christianity</a> in India. In Tamil Nadu I often stopped to listen to Roman Catholic mass in Tamil.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PdxUaQejQlRSEAoD4OERkZ53_jaOYCqyH7Q0jbGX0vmdplOmPResM_KBXnOrxAfYdWmvzWr1ebpHET6X4USvu6txVcrYI4o0i7fbK5bCPTYSK1hwr-h1zwczx2iDdGMNHKbQuI9tpIM/s1600/DSC_0388+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PdxUaQejQlRSEAoD4OERkZ53_jaOYCqyH7Q0jbGX0vmdplOmPResM_KBXnOrxAfYdWmvzWr1ebpHET6X4USvu6txVcrYI4o0i7fbK5bCPTYSK1hwr-h1zwczx2iDdGMNHKbQuI9tpIM/s200/DSC_0388+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651084109011938" border="0" /></a>From there it was a short walk to the waterfront promenade, where I took some photos of the lighthouse as the sky darkened, watched families playing at the edge of the water, people flying kites, vendors selling <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaat">chaat</a> and horse rides, and struggled to find the subway station.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxQqSrXRjq_k10OWdD1rbrlvZRvIuooxro_hCyisqVcnAFByel6giIUyzD6PxpBRSf1HuQUE5a1p4rxrG40xCVG0pqP5UR-PnzGk1tM7TBiS9mew9I7lytwy7B2bNNpJPw3v66Ho-o5Q/s1600/DSC_0466+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxQqSrXRjq_k10OWdD1rbrlvZRvIuooxro_hCyisqVcnAFByel6giIUyzD6PxpBRSf1HuQUE5a1p4rxrG40xCVG0pqP5UR-PnzGk1tM7TBiS9mew9I7lytwy7B2bNNpJPw3v66Ho-o5Q/s200/DSC_0466+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651508213265234" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHvO8Jlj3vvpB-V__ShfEO-ltl_7Que2SbT_7Yw3J4HRzpspyWFZm8jjdDeMGl1fniSWUHgOgeuCM2w9skLXFoMZlV9M2omYnKodUdwhi8lUDRuaCk32HLmLbuxT-ZfHe-HHa-vqGU-tk/s1600/DSC_0428+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 156px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHvO8Jlj3vvpB-V__ShfEO-ltl_7Que2SbT_7Yw3J4HRzpspyWFZm8jjdDeMGl1fniSWUHgOgeuCM2w9skLXFoMZlV9M2omYnKodUdwhi8lUDRuaCk32HLmLbuxT-ZfHe-HHa-vqGU-tk/s200/DSC_0428+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651499916631234" border="0" /></a>The overpriced museum was still worthwhile for the comprehensive overview of Dravidian sculpture and the terrific collection of bronzes, many of which depicted <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nataraja">dancing Shiva</a>. Poor lighting and glass cases largely prevented photography<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKy1PCVaqhLMrZTjD6BrLxkXDVzHROlpND_yiwjS6wK4s1C3mQJkEwn5PkOwVmVuNUgR5_A3jGU02ZXmQO6dMLgZSwbXhcKXGwjNbA_RDCYBkglaEUr63gLV_bw0E8KFZVgQDRZ81ykgU/s1600/DSC_0493+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKy1PCVaqhLMrZTjD6BrLxkXDVzHROlpND_yiwjS6wK4s1C3mQJkEwn5PkOwVmVuNUgR5_A3jGU02ZXmQO6dMLgZSwbXhcKXGwjNbA_RDCYBkglaEUr63gLV_bw0E8KFZVgQDRZ81ykgU/s200/DSC_0493+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5486651518522063426" border="0" /></a>Finally, a trek to Valluvar Kottam, a monument honoring the 1st century BCE <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamil_language">Tamil</a> saint Tiruvalluvar. It's built in the form of a chariot, and has verses from the Tirukular. Part of the trouble finding it was that Indians are often SO polite that they will helpfully give directions, even if they have no idea where you are going. Lonely Planet guides also have notoriously bad maps for walkers like me, which means I can usually double the estimated time. Later, I found a special edition one rupee coin with Tiruvalluvar.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-33672961006513797272010-06-22T02:12:00.000-07:002010-06-22T06:59:01.332-07:00Palaces and Forts, Gods and HijabA visit to Hyderabad began my 16-day trip in South India, and this blog begins a deluge of posts about it! Hyderabad was founded by a Muslim ruler of India, considered joining Pakistan upon India's Independence in 1947, and still has a high population of Muslims. Here I was surprised when women wearing the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niqab">niqab</a> voluntarily uncovered their faces in public when they asked me to photograph them. It kind of shuts down that controversy in Canada about refusing drivers' licenses and voters' rights to women wearing the niqab because "they can't show their faces". Although some sects of Islam believe this, nothing in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qur'an">Qur'an</a> requires women to cover their faces or hair in the presence of men not their family. I've also really come to support the rights of women to cover their hair and/or face. In many regions of India, I voluntarily cover up to gain some relief from a culture of leering men of all religions and <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2010/04/life-of-buddha.html">this</a>. Trust me, no one is going to undermine that culture by <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdr8TuNrabKSLW78N4wZSCOTlwvMM5ZQKZ3PsL16y_FtrUrKKWqBOgFjvYNuVbktX1875Dw9BaMSUYbEXh26rxcmpDX5C2hYZicnycV-tjMMawC4vl_I7jdJDNPp120jFqphItIlYKHy8/s1600/DSC_0960.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdr8TuNrabKSLW78N4wZSCOTlwvMM5ZQKZ3PsL16y_FtrUrKKWqBOgFjvYNuVbktX1875Dw9BaMSUYbEXh26rxcmpDX5C2hYZicnycV-tjMMawC4vl_I7jdJDNPp120jFqphItIlYKHy8/s200/DSC_0960.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485529209569670242" border="0" /></a>"liberating" her hair, although it is perfectly acceptable to go uncovered also.<br /><br />Who knew that Buddhism was also so prevalent in Andhra Pradesh's history? <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicv22b1b5QKLZ4x3M4y4L_VV32G57T1xqgpj6tYtBovIfMfMk6mRW3udST-g-V9rSLj5RAJBM0RZat_qxA7Bo8bwOR1OvXxYGkRpfiLB3W4tmRxHWTeMaASH_Grf5JG6dPOBExYzjduDU/s1600/DSC_0043.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicv22b1b5QKLZ4x3M4y4L_VV32G57T1xqgpj6tYtBovIfMfMk6mRW3udST-g-V9rSLj5RAJBM0RZat_qxA7Bo8bwOR1OvXxYGkRpfiLB3W4tmRxHWTeMaASH_Grf5JG6dPOBExYzjduDU/s200/DSC_0043.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485526439467583890" border="0" /></a>The state museum had a large collection of bronzes, stone sculpture, and even a supposed relic of the Buddha. Hyderabad also has the largest monolithic Buddha statue in the country, installed in the middle of the lake in 1992.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2UrqGiEixFPkqAnghHWt14TqsOuOyz7dUp5QM_WBEjUuucXr0vCY2G7xN4KZvamu_IHDmpVEpZHztgk7TlIbp7LhNcG7U3OMGEI3mkBoNB0CJUKjyTLOUimOtQFmDOTFoXAfg5Eynddc/s1600/DSC_0147.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2UrqGiEixFPkqAnghHWt14TqsOuOyz7dUp5QM_WBEjUuucXr0vCY2G7xN4KZvamu_IHDmpVEpZHztgk7TlIbp7LhNcG7U3OMGEI3mkBoNB0CJUKjyTLOUimOtQFmDOTFoXAfg5Eynddc/s200/DSC_0147.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485526451837431506" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaFfdBdCCBViwyC4P7W17SKucGIjhbJRB6Soqo-pNTPUAT8K7DPM7g54MJiwZmHAVw0NrUKiKNMlxU_V0a-U2osjW6rODuYL8BwgAMGr3-eJzsc5MvmP2bVCX1KDpC7GYz6Z3gjwDZmg/s1600/DSC_0144.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaFfdBdCCBViwyC4P7W17SKucGIjhbJRB6Soqo-pNTPUAT8K7DPM7g54MJiwZmHAVw0NrUKiKNMlxU_V0a-U2osjW6rODuYL8BwgAMGr3-eJzsc5MvmP2bVCX1KDpC7GYz6Z3gjwDZmg/s200/DSC_0144.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485526445663302994" border="0" /></a>I spent an entire day exploring Golconda Fort and the Qutb Shahi Tombs with Penny and Jamie from Britain. Both sites were full of hidden corners, detailed carving, and crumbling ruins. These two cute Muslim girls were dressed in their best for the day out.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-sY1Y8JKzlaPE3nUQtg9tlGHhelqfAc08ghGzjnitRUAF647ViDAS2qhDZaAlrC8boTK0KCbIlPLRlZxnmuIEp0muHbDxZR5Cf3RrUVgyP3V2PnLAkDpWjf09pB1n71QTlAIvamxk6s/s1600/DSC_0072.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-sY1Y8JKzlaPE3nUQtg9tlGHhelqfAc08ghGzjnitRUAF647ViDAS2qhDZaAlrC8boTK0KCbIlPLRlZxnmuIEp0muHbDxZR5Cf3RrUVgyP3V2PnLAkDpWjf09pB1n71QTlAIvamxk6s/s200/DSC_0072.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485526444964038562" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqa_kJEgD9De_EhLw16dn-og2-bEU4xdmLCQ_Lcln89mZnuGpKeSqpRF-sD0iRw224aCqOC1zf___O476PD3KSEdd4-2I2iY_9LIH2ENQ2rPvc6WYvJUnGijMrEoin5WKMpdvC2pomKKE/s1600/DSC_0203.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqa_kJEgD9De_EhLw16dn-og2-bEU4xdmLCQ_Lcln89mZnuGpKeSqpRF-sD0iRw224aCqOC1zf___O476PD3KSEdd4-2I2iY_9LIH2ENQ2rPvc6WYvJUnGijMrEoin5WKMpdvC2pomKKE/s200/DSC_0203.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485526456856073314" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The Charmahalla was the palace of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nizam">nizams</a>, and had a cool collection of *really* vintage cars.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9f3XyX4niKqH63pxIbOxvEVBkJsujXVDSPcXsjfocUKnIjbFJZ4D_prbW2Bt_1LL90I2fs71qZhIT09y8apFE5VWkZf9g3dPn_XkMlCUGSAi7qH-fzye0ENIFIVGhyRMpT_PzT7p9Ak4/s1600/DSC_0270.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9f3XyX4niKqH63pxIbOxvEVBkJsujXVDSPcXsjfocUKnIjbFJZ4D_prbW2Bt_1LL90I2fs71qZhIT09y8apFE5VWkZf9g3dPn_XkMlCUGSAi7qH-fzye0ENIFIVGhyRMpT_PzT7p9Ak4/s200/DSC_0270.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485529197169621106" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj988u7L0i-2M0ghAelN7Fqo6DxwrG8HPcWls3XOX0Xoql70XaiwufVUGv0ERiWaSgN96nr1haDY2fuJ1ZXPyyETOfOuPWjCqmK2XFteNfh3-QudmYsfhSjvigOCDZlshCUZynNHotP7JM/s1600/DSC_0244.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj988u7L0i-2M0ghAelN7Fqo6DxwrG8HPcWls3XOX0Xoql70XaiwufVUGv0ERiWaSgN96nr1haDY2fuJ1ZXPyyETOfOuPWjCqmK2XFteNfh3-QudmYsfhSjvigOCDZlshCUZynNHotP7JM/s200/DSC_0244.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485529109450243666" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />It was in the same area as the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rRk2-E3EOk3kjfVOe2mrXuSWghhAAeKdTSA4QdRRy0_ZhkaAJqSMJRdkCwtL69LKbYV_Nrao7_fgNbrwhwxloPDGFtT67MRdOsXbo1nPrfd2hS4yVkOuXzvrRLdrf12t9UiQjhTEPLU/s1600/DSC_0287.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rRk2-E3EOk3kjfVOe2mrXuSWghhAAeKdTSA4QdRRy0_ZhkaAJqSMJRdkCwtL69LKbYV_Nrao7_fgNbrwhwxloPDGFtT67MRdOsXbo1nPrfd2hS4yVkOuXzvrRLdrf12t9UiQjhTEPLU/s200/DSC_0287.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485529206290907858" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6ucEt4Wid25kMu5SaYfhAmNXXBoFCAqTxkNuS_huvQfA0Zr3Vxve7X335BRQvjvUVY5ZiCH7rV-TWoYBG_QxUcWgGfYgq5SzvXDmFeOMQQ_UyKECrDDdoxGjAhHl9QRfO3QSC6-Y3PM/s1600/DSC_0234.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6ucEt4Wid25kMu5SaYfhAmNXXBoFCAqTxkNuS_huvQfA0Zr3Vxve7X335BRQvjvUVY5ZiCH7rV-TWoYBG_QxUcWgGfYgq5SzvXDmFeOMQQ_UyKECrDDdoxGjAhHl9QRfO3QSC6-Y3PM/s200/DSC_0234.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5485529105639768562" border="0" /></a>Mecca Masjid, which contains bricks made of soil from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mecca">Mecca</a>, and the major landmark, the Charminar. This area is one giant bazaar, where I bought pearls. Hyderabad is also known as the City of Pearls.<br /><br />In Tirupati, the most visited pilgrimage site in the world, and my next destination I took <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darshan">darshan</a> from the god Venkateshwara, also known as Lord Balaji or Govinda. It's not really a tourist destination, because you can't take photos of the temple or the god, and there's nothing else to do. Darshan also involves waiting for hours, or sometimes days, as a minimum of 100,000 pilgrims visit daily, and the number goes up to 500,000. For me, it took about four hours in the "quick darshan" line, also the most expensive. It was an incredible experience, but I was also put off by the "big business" feel; this temple is the richest in India, and it got that way by continually asking for money from pilgrims.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-67594068833715136932010-05-28T01:10:00.000-07:002010-05-28T01:21:27.557-07:00Sun, Sand and Motorcycles in DahanuA short blog this week. I'm heading off to travel for two weeks in South India next week, so I'll see what I can do to keep you entertained while I'm away.<br /><br />This trip with the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4RaXvnnaB7MtHZA8ExrBgNYHH65SQCLY2YRrO3_fHhjDLYuMDXfeC_CDhpHAEB8jIesS0LhIHwHN4K0mSB3txEn5pIma3q-4hHC6ZvEz1yNCkgZJGn2T-wDe2xas97gussNWosyyz8M/s1600/DSC_0942.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4RaXvnnaB7MtHZA8ExrBgNYHH65SQCLY2YRrO3_fHhjDLYuMDXfeC_CDhpHAEB8jIesS0LhIHwHN4K0mSB3txEn5pIma3q-4hHC6ZvEz1yNCkgZJGn2T-wDe2xas97gussNWosyyz8M/s200/DSC_0942.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476231321927463794" border="0" /></a>Firelords Enfield club started with a 4am wakeup, then a punishing motorcycle ride north-west to the coast of the Arabian sea. The traffic in Thane, a suburb of Mumbai, really reminded me of Toronto. Riding through the Western ghats north along the highway to Surat was very scenic. Being a pillion rider is not easy, and by the end of it I was exhausted, dehydrated, in pain, and obviously very upset. Dinner and drinks under the palm trees helped a little.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBlFt4SKaZNftH95KSHK7cPkGUaLdlEpLJqPu1z7l7c1BoQWdovC4WXi2CqOhe_20lg9cz6gT7FN0OQUXUBwsxB_tcJ05O74AyjZJmn3TFYJZVmQLGcRB2G2VolT7xZ0mAJs86N0l5Xk/s1600/DSC_0913.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBlFt4SKaZNftH95KSHK7cPkGUaLdlEpLJqPu1z7l7c1BoQWdovC4WXi2CqOhe_20lg9cz6gT7FN0OQUXUBwsxB_tcJ05O74AyjZJmn3TFYJZVmQLGcRB2G2VolT7xZ0mAJs86N0l5Xk/s200/DSC_0913.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476231303591933394" border="0" /></a>The next day was spent eating, and taking photos on the beach. The water was way too silty to swim, so I took a dip in the hotel pool instead. There were only six of us left: me, Yogesh, Nipun, Aditi, Amit, and Vijay.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvO6MmcNdAcuOK2Af6CgDhcfejGeQ7-OSY1DNUIb_QhHfMwooV3YEr47jKsdnzFFItKHPdGsUbgsa6cmZ128uFZ_ZKiHuY3zZndoHDBLj1Bx0XCtzVnuzzq8VkOyNXrBrnZUL22rXtK0/s1600/DSC_0927.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvO6MmcNdAcuOK2Af6CgDhcfejGeQ7-OSY1DNUIb_QhHfMwooV3YEr47jKsdnzFFItKHPdGsUbgsa6cmZ128uFZ_ZKiHuY3zZndoHDBLj1Bx0XCtzVnuzzq8VkOyNXrBrnZUL22rXtK0/s200/DSC_0927.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476231313828126210" border="0" /></a>The ride back went much better, with regular food, drink, and rest stops, including a McDonald's stop where I got a Happy Meal with a Fiona toy. Yah! Punch!Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-57739519579653721992010-05-20T00:18:00.000-07:002010-05-20T00:58:13.873-07:00Goa! Jesus!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjco3mSHjKKEcYsrlnSnrAHcbvdhL3hUmZxfHdx_tfbbbOXr7N5WaYArvrCoCCEjeXJInejIAO160bDPnntSDAiQfFuG3rxJWNaLC3vsZZI4r5gr4UnleX01caJDumBzJ2M95ER4UK3E/s1600/DSC_0856.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjco3mSHjKKEcYsrlnSnrAHcbvdhL3hUmZxfHdx_tfbbbOXr7N5WaYArvrCoCCEjeXJInejIAO160bDPnntSDAiQfFuG3rxJWNaLC3vsZZI4r5gr4UnleX01caJDumBzJ2M95ER4UK3E/s200/DSC_0856.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473251887763922418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Bom Jesus (good Jesus in Portuguese), to be specific! The first day I spent on the beach eating and drinking. The waves were awesome so I spent some time playing, and then some time trying to clear salt water from my sinuses. Ouch.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiztGDKbSpfvdEOj6RyzTzvmOsd4htBsUwTEjf7chhcA1lITkWuNh5zXE2ka69SNNZOI4z3IIKzy3dTffp5_CDfmOMKOeBS6pTbPWY0M4umVVciLEH9G9bcieGeP8xXlu5AP-GY1fFqbY/s1600/DSC_0689.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiztGDKbSpfvdEOj6RyzTzvmOsd4htBsUwTEjf7chhcA1lITkWuNh5zXE2ka69SNNZOI4z3IIKzy3dTffp5_CDfmOMKOeBS6pTbPWY0M4umVVciLEH9G9bcieGeP8xXlu5AP-GY1fFqbY/s200/DSC_0689.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473248686313975522" border="0" /></a>Of course the second day I went to Old Goa to take photos of old churches. Old Goa was the capital when the Portuguese were <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEKyVcpwOTj8ZeSISgF92lDQ24pvZdiw_SleXor5ez50vOlAv0nycrf3netRuEn-VRqEFmWpOPjDZqqRh7yCNYJkhf4HCEpGCxekhqcZBh7hJt48WjZHGD0myNx4RnXx4fhNKEVJL4sM/s1600/DSC_0702.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEKyVcpwOTj8ZeSISgF92lDQ24pvZdiw_SleXor5ez50vOlAv0nycrf3netRuEn-VRqEFmWpOPjDZqqRh7yCNYJkhf4HCEpGCxekhqcZBh7hJt48WjZHGD0myNx4RnXx4fhNKEVJL4sM/s200/DSC_0702.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473248693930204674" border="0" /></a>ruling here, and is now designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The coolest was Bom Jesus, which has the uncorrupted (but mummified) remains of Saint Francis Xavier. You can kind of see his body in the glass and silver coffin in the middle of the huge masoleum. U<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nyQhv7MQp6M9UVx7oHAiA8qCYOAhFLly0r84UkMEA85H9onG_EgKTL5Wdr-zQaKLWpqTEJtpxmL_u2E9WJNa_b4BQrmZu7R40sp2IGTZIVhFkKY2xFrjVLf9y1DSvK0p8h5mZH6VbFE/s1600/DSC_0715.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 128px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nyQhv7MQp6M9UVx7oHAiA8qCYOAhFLly0r84UkMEA85H9onG_EgKTL5Wdr-zQaKLWpqTEJtpxmL_u2E9WJNa_b4BQrmZu7R40sp2IGTZIVhFkKY2xFrjVLf9y1DSvK0p8h5mZH6VbFE/s200/DSC_0715.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473255778016735394" border="0" /></a>pstairs there is a small art gallery with wooden carvings and paintings.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQRXOZmfUUB3Zg1fMsTxOjcMJYuodNVLPgiHh2xyuV2ittoBvyUd640AUOWPsHCUMVhZiKAps-LwiCQLDWQsJI1mvF3Wm4RPekn-U4vQO3HHguAMDm2wKG2hTlymGSnH6OwE8iol2zBM/s1600/DSC_0781.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQRXOZmfUUB3Zg1fMsTxOjcMJYuodNVLPgiHh2xyuV2ittoBvyUd640AUOWPsHCUMVhZiKAps-LwiCQLDWQsJI1mvF3Wm4RPekn-U4vQO3HHguAMDm2wKG2hTlymGSnH6OwE8iol2zBM/s200/DSC_0781.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473251875832092066" border="0" /></a>Se Cathedral was filled with gold and carving and chapels. I've included a photo of the back side. The front looks much more interesting because one of the two towers fell off, but I don't have a photo.<br /><br /><br /><br />The <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitFV2pdT9bRNl7h_IuoI1c28IOw3L88vrbh-T4RM1lElB_piq9GKuEprrTNhaVkQQgzJnsESvN8h_3OrlokuPDl2WmpVOiT25mC2sCFhRlLGtSgZxkb4y4W0aGNkjD2Vmv-qgJuWZilAw/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitFV2pdT9bRNl7h_IuoI1c28IOw3L88vrbh-T4RM1lElB_piq9GKuEprrTNhaVkQQgzJnsESvN8h_3OrlokuPDl2WmpVOiT25mC2sCFhRlLGtSgZxkb4y4W0aGNkjD2Vmv-qgJuWZilAw/s200/DSC_0771.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473248720087640770" border="0" /></a>Church of St. Francis of Assisi is filled with graves, and they were blocked off to preserve them. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1ZqMhPgcSHZPO7iedbAGehDDAPh9ckjoKq2ePwKZRCKKABH5GFJOb43kgKoN4rlUbuPAYVbOF26ZiFYsibMu0DL4VEzMsuw9EEUykT9iot28QGJn8KqlG8whNGJKJn42ugqDv_EtCxM/s1600/DSC_0757.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1ZqMhPgcSHZPO7iedbAGehDDAPh9ckjoKq2ePwKZRCKKABH5GFJOb43kgKoN4rlUbuPAYVbOF26ZiFYsibMu0DL4VEzMsuw9EEUykT9iot28QGJn8KqlG8whNGJKJn42ugqDv_EtCxM/s200/DSC_0757.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473248715266978498" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The walls were covered in frescoes. Although this church is not currently in use as a place of worship, it was fascinating.<br /><br />Finally, the ruins of the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHNHXpr6xavbxUEovtimsFd3BXQck9Y_5YzSA8SF9DkuPonk1jqBTerqxiKQX_nkEU2-Nd6o7mzk6RIg_lnJppX69hYdE-goebelEoNYuo13C9CkMXwjcWXL2pjKfrY3fURkMTzvbfsU/s1600/DSC_0825.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHNHXpr6xavbxUEovtimsFd3BXQck9Y_5YzSA8SF9DkuPonk1jqBTerqxiKQX_nkEU2-Nd6o7mzk6RIg_lnJppX69hYdE-goebelEoNYuo13C9CkMXwjcWXL2pjKfrY3fURkMTzvbfsU/s200/DSC_0825.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473251879715052162" border="0" /></a>Church of St. Augustine, which included a five-storey tower. It was abandoned in 1835 because of the Goan Inquisition.<br /><br />The third day more eating, drinking, and laying on the beach. Wonderful sunsets, and plenty of bikini time on this trip!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3iMOsIl5ThCXO9iIfr96zaAiCoEv4-2HiAf7Dgb3JSTDT0vGjGwPiNvNmCxZhmMIz_hqvBF97FVgxBps4K4A2IVeur4peu5pRyaiFSXI3lQngmkSFrp3XVF35OG4IQtu70u0K_6SkW4/s1600/DSC_0871.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3iMOsIl5ThCXO9iIfr96zaAiCoEv4-2HiAf7Dgb3JSTDT0vGjGwPiNvNmCxZhmMIz_hqvBF97FVgxBps4K4A2IVeur4peu5pRyaiFSXI3lQngmkSFrp3XVF35OG4IQtu70u0K_6SkW4/s200/DSC_0871.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5473251892252988722" border="0" /></a>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-43280440128216905092010-05-10T05:05:00.001-07:002010-06-22T07:02:17.473-07:00The Land of TeaI've been back in Pune for more than two weeks now, so this is a little late! Congratulations to Scott and Tatiana in London, and Sarah and Frank in Toronto. Both couples added a baby girl to their homes recently, and I am so excited to meet them when I return to Canada!<br /><br />The main purpose for visiting Darjeeling was for the tea, which was lucky because there weren't any views of the mo<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZbGur65AfzloB1s-UN6UUg4w2jK371DbF-Dn6MLxLdp3mTZ-768kKseRdNHnlUUHpCj3BQjtZv3VEvpheOE7i8y9GbWwtmpkyyqyqn8BBnwcFKMa-UkS7o3MxKszWkD6l0EiKyZXEfE/s1600/DSC_0550.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZbGur65AfzloB1s-UN6UUg4w2jK371DbF-Dn6MLxLdp3mTZ-768kKseRdNHnlUUHpCj3BQjtZv3VEvpheOE7i8y9GbWwtmpkyyqyqn8BBnwcFKMa-UkS7o3MxKszWkD6l0EiKyZXEfE/s200/DSC_0550.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469630897578419826" border="0" /></a>untains the whole time I was there. Good visibility meant seeing across the street. It was a welcome change from the heat of northern India. And tea is one of the reasons for my existence.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhVv5MaswzTThVNDG9bwZGrvBOpCrdP6Xk77Y_0by8aM7T01P33DZhV8b4MGNtjgV9U0rbv3_Sv6TW4Cam2ic0I_9UQavhSLcVV7ELaaAuYamS7NuO0acitqjLwvkVypYHeA38-z0TMs/s1600/DSC_0516.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhVv5MaswzTThVNDG9bwZGrvBOpCrdP6Xk77Y_0by8aM7T01P33DZhV8b4MGNtjgV9U0rbv3_Sv6TW4Cam2ic0I_9UQavhSLcVV7ELaaAuYamS7NuO0acitqjLwvkVypYHeA38-z0TMs/s200/DSC_0516.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469632138110495090" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8LBMBDZD9QpHzQQVI8eIZa11heJoued2QubZEkfqgspoAIJlrFR3qIEi2FFWTR7-yjt29FBjwaqmNPSC5Nmzu_UfT1OMOlhzVZozbRbsm3SURjIQn-dt69sde1ggt1WUByLfeOF3-Bc/s1600/DSC_0567.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8LBMBDZD9QpHzQQVI8eIZa11heJoued2QubZEkfqgspoAIJlrFR3qIEi2FFWTR7-yjt29FBjwaqmNPSC5Nmzu_UfT1OMOlhzVZozbRbsm3SURjIQn-dt69sde1ggt1WUByLfeOF3-Bc/s200/DSC_0567.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469633172794900626" border="0" /></a>Everywhere in north West Bengal there are signs for the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorkhaland">Gorkhaland</a> movement for a separate Indian state. Right now the movement has achieved some autonomy. A separate state seems reasonable to me, since Gorkhaland has a different geography, economy, and ethnic group from the south.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoXla5t-cTgETSrMeOdrXql6s8TD_KIhDXgNxuRynFerZRG59GX22I7lCDGFxReXZolHuXS3ykCrY4MhMiu840BK9-RVBqYIJXYFykwE6_46Dt-Y85KpGgCXxwfbMpXCsx50CrLkkVic/s1600/DSC_0590.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoXla5t-cTgETSrMeOdrXql6s8TD_KIhDXgNxuRynFerZRG59GX22I7lCDGFxReXZolHuXS3ykCrY4MhMiu840BK9-RVBqYIJXYFykwE6_46Dt-Y85KpGgCXxwfbMpXCsx50CrLkkVic/s200/DSC_0590.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469632154737929762" border="0" /></a>I visited the <a href="http://www.makaibari.com/">Makaibari Tea Estate</a> just south of Kurseong. I was unimpressed with the tour, especially since the guide didn't mention that Makaibari tea is organic, and that seems important. It was definitely cool to see the process of tea production: picking, drying, fermenting, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Nw8NL5P8Ghyphenhyphenv6c5RHOHhQv6sZ1ewot4vCQM07KkASvT92PfzDSDzua_qRu9KMfFp2foVFV3FgRC7EIINHK5mxg1zMgfGf7mS7C0dPBlCzKzshB5wlrZGBWxv9Fl18SLOMcTL8TJh3hw/s1600/DSC_0584.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Nw8NL5P8Ghyphenhyphenv6c5RHOHhQv6sZ1ewot4vCQM07KkASvT92PfzDSDzua_qRu9KMfFp2foVFV3FgRC7EIINHK5mxg1zMgfGf7mS7C0dPBlCzKzshB5wlrZGBWxv9Fl18SLOMcTL8TJh3hw/s200/DSC_0584.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469632149299902562" border="0" /></a>drying, sorting, packaging. None of the fine Makaibari teas were available for sale, unfortunately.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtqHuOROBs79Ohh3S5TTOLdJA3Vp36gqTctxg6gjbgqfgx7nJYe4chWlxMEUJzBO60s5utZNSqIv2mjeUqCdmegpnt5ti-Z3KQk3AGmKD1sA_8aFU3QwhYoRFeLMX4GGZjvDIcUMBitbc/s1600/DSC_0618.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtqHuOROBs79Ohh3S5TTOLdJA3Vp36gqTctxg6gjbgqfgx7nJYe4chWlxMEUJzBO60s5utZNSqIv2mjeUqCdmegpnt5ti-Z3KQk3AGmKD1sA_8aFU3QwhYoRFeLMX4GGZjvDIcUMBitbc/s200/DSC_0618.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469632158549320482" border="0" /></a>In Darjeeling I bought a Castleton's Moonlight White, the unfurled tips of the tea bush, apparently picked by moonlight. I also bought a Castleton's Muscatel, a second flush. That's picked later than the first flush, uses the opened leaves lower on the bush, and is considered finer than the first flush. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darjeeling_tea">Got that straight</a>? The Moonlight White is properly a "green" tea, which means unfermented (or unoxidized), while the Muscatel is a "black" tea, fully fermented (three days). When I was in Kathmandu, Nepal, I also added an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilam,_Nepal">Ilam</a> first flush (black) and an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oolong">Oolong</a> (partially fermented) to my collection.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujQYZCHPTRhqCUd8MjdWVn76Nn4oEvfIRgS2ZYRjkocGHqdmvi9KiVG2S6UFz_4JUfO8maYB5R-nzutFCsdsBrec1lDHczoKBrWaLafo9rIkh9NJKFWRdFRc5wlJpSCBZgNEgE-TuqME/s1600/DSC_0645.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujQYZCHPTRhqCUd8MjdWVn76Nn4oEvfIRgS2ZYRjkocGHqdmvi9KiVG2S6UFz_4JUfO8maYB5R-nzutFCsdsBrec1lDHczoKBrWaLafo9rIkh9NJKFWRdFRc5wlJpSCBZgNEgE-TuqME/s200/DSC_0645.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469632168720130626" border="0" /></a>The main temple in Darjeeling, built on the site of the Dorje Ling monastery, is a fascinating mix of Hinduism and Buddhism, covered in Tibetan prayer flags, and images of Hindu gods. It's also covered in aggressive monkeys.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiar_FcXRuY-ye_BBJg79EQePYMPahnZz4IkNmCu1nPjTd2XI3QfR6OD4RPuuKTX8JA2gyBueZytT4KgSZykEeCc-hFbseMs-ZUFzmBWT77WBpVR_WMh3NHYzLeloSpS9by1g6m1l8ib3c/s1600/DSC_0488.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiar_FcXRuY-ye_BBJg79EQePYMPahnZz4IkNmCu1nPjTd2XI3QfR6OD4RPuuKTX8JA2gyBueZytT4KgSZykEeCc-hFbseMs-ZUFzmBWT77WBpVR_WMh3NHYzLeloSpS9by1g6m1l8ib3c/s200/DSC_0488.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469630883187094114" border="0" /></a>Another big draw in Darjeeling is the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For the "joyride" to Ghum and back they still run the steam engine "toy train" on the 610 mm <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narrow_gauge">narrow gauge track</a> (compared to the 1435 mm standard gauge). Nine kilometers takes 40 minutes, so taking a jeep by the road which runs alongside the tracks is much faster for long distances. The difference in elevation between Siliguri, the closest regular train station, and Darjeeling is about 2000 metres, so my airtight toiletry bottles <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIuI5TDKX-1LE2kz9yj8wl3jessHRjGYr0ndY-1hJx05xfFbQRe2bHZTw_4ZD8nczK-o4ca5DI6i9nrCurzPJD7hfBH5Jj0lbd_O58Npi9DW9-hIvISMHjg_ov1AGtRjnxg023jkM_FA/s1600/DSC_0565.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIuI5TDKX-1LE2kz9yj8wl3jessHRjGYr0ndY-1hJx05xfFbQRe2bHZTw_4ZD8nczK-o4ca5DI6i9nrCurzPJD7hfBH5Jj0lbd_O58Npi9DW9-hIvISMHjg_ov1AGtRjnxg023jkM_FA/s200/DSC_0565.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469630901020967202" border="0" /></a>all changed shape in the three-hour jeep ride.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACTiWxRsk6vl0J-nsYhY7h5X0kwhX4xZ5RKq5YvtUOoOQn1LL-A0CcEhpa4LxAtHCvhvP_B2xJPSP3zzp_zQLADfnmvHRscoVHAj8UKx-8jCn-xM1b6aMWjCUBhopuchDaOgsKILD1I8/s1600/DSC_0542.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACTiWxRsk6vl0J-nsYhY7h5X0kwhX4xZ5RKq5YvtUOoOQn1LL-A0CcEhpa4LxAtHCvhvP_B2xJPSP3zzp_zQLADfnmvHRscoVHAj8UKx-8jCn-xM1b6aMWjCUBhopuchDaOgsKILD1I8/s200/DSC_0542.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469630889738870386" border="0" /></a><br />From Darjeeling I put my name on the waitlist for a train out of Siliguri, and unfortunately failed to get a seat. Facing a lack of available trains, and a 24+ hour trip by train or bus to my next destination, I decided to fly back to Pune, which resulted in an interesting adventure trying to book a seat.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-1362533532206429252010-04-29T01:53:00.000-07:002010-04-29T03:34:03.135-07:00KolkataKolkata (formerly Calcutta) in West Bengal is one of the jewels of the British colonial period. Sort of. Who else but Europeans would build on a flood plain? Here I had a very strange experience when Times Guest House kicked me out after two nights. I asked for a receipt for my visa registration, and because their computer was "broken", they couldn't give me one and told me I had to leave. Sounds really improbable, right? Especially since the power goes out so often in India, no one relies solely on computer for their business. (In fact, the power went out while I was writing this!) I suspect that they didn't re<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsn4Ihi6xzx3jUunwFiCMTVku8H_Pn4HpwU1gbSHkfgU7SiQSQeMXXLiWj3SG0bIjL91-X8dwR3b-bsHJEgqWMAe-pMkiZj7zmjBo7_MNlKbwl6eJOssADlWg1v6O-2xEY6P9RkWsT5U8/s1600/DSC_0266.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsn4Ihi6xzx3jUunwFiCMTVku8H_Pn4HpwU1gbSHkfgU7SiQSQeMXXLiWj3SG0bIjL91-X8dwR3b-bsHJEgqWMAe-pMkiZj7zmjBo7_MNlKbwl6eJOssADlWg1v6O-2xEY6P9RkWsT5U8/s200/DSC_0266.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480518557396002" border="0" /></a>gister me properly (whether for a legitimate or an illegal reason), and because I needed proof I was staying there, the paper trail would get them in trouble. At the least: Inconvenient! Yeah, I made a scene.<br /><br />I took a worthwhile day tour with West Bengal Tourism. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybGOYK8VfaZbDrqP8yfjyA69uU9mOOWbbQpUG1_hvaSvd9v8dJb1c_Kt2uxkv0Z-a8uWsrfUbXCwiy81Yms50FabjVCk70YmDj16yEwXMm_u31YR71aXVe1KzCiRZk1N4WbzfhDuYhKk/s1600/DSC_0275.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybGOYK8VfaZbDrqP8yfjyA69uU9mOOWbbQpUG1_hvaSvd9v8dJb1c_Kt2uxkv0Z-a8uWsrfUbXCwiy81Yms50FabjVCk70YmDj16yEwXMm_u31YR71aXVe1KzCiRZk1N4WbzfhDuYhKk/s200/DSC_0275.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480527449682002" border="0" /></a>The most worthwhile part was the air conditioned bus. The temperature was only 36 degrees here, but the humidity: about 90%. The Sheethalnathji Jain Temple was a colourful confection of architecture with one really strange statue. I took darshan (seeing and being seen by the goddess) at Ramakrishna's Kali Temple, where I also saw the tide come up the Hooghly (a branch of the Ganges River Delta). We also visited the Vivekananda temple complex, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Police Museum, and saw the biggest reservoir in the world.<br /><br />The Netaji Museum is in Subash Chandra <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bpUK_gJge9JspSSFMBbjjsSDxsVnc_CtFohYqgdSi6g9vmTk7ewA3_JCLLalF_Gyfi4EAoaTv-cw01Mn23TOVTRvZjsWufPkB7yjS8cjN5oStAa3bC6f2DSdKewXSoOUSSLeAE2NzVY/s1600/DSC_0282.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bpUK_gJge9JspSSFMBbjjsSDxsVnc_CtFohYqgdSi6g9vmTk7ewA3_JCLLalF_Gyfi4EAoaTv-cw01Mn23TOVTRvZjsWufPkB7yjS8cjN5oStAa3bC6f2DSdKewXSoOUSSLeAE2NzVY/s200/DSC_0282.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480532550033890" border="0" /></a>Bose's former house. He was involved in the Independence movement, but we don't hear much about him in the Western world because he advocated violent struggle against the British. (We also don't hear much about how effective violent resistance sometimes was in <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDqjYhLinse0TvgGFvOGvaBiOrWkI8B8Nk7ArOmk_LM8vcgs95dlhp0C5bAjrm2AK5xf4BbhK5CJkwy-aYKjJpyCNgODWt8y61N7mb0-_c-oObgf-CjAlsSDetYWer_AMEFHMga7kCQo/s1600/DSC_0341.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDqjYhLinse0TvgGFvOGvaBiOrWkI8B8Nk7ArOmk_LM8vcgs95dlhp0C5bAjrm2AK5xf4BbhK5CJkwy-aYKjJpyCNgODWt8y61N7mb0-_c-oObgf-CjAlsSDetYWer_AMEFHMga7kCQo/s200/DSC_0341.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480540756547394" border="0" /></a>achieving India's Independence.) Promoting Gandhi's nonviolence movement is much more popular for managing contemporary colonies.<br /><br />The Victoria Memorial is surprisingly tasteful in white marble, and had an interesting art exhibit inside, showing colonial travelers' impressions of India.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvhVEb_ZEV6NV5CJbI_xm2QfRukkchgpzkmp0aD4k5KeGIl2LCY8Te8QDAH77vqWyLuybq7wz0E_r238Sk4AdFsXWJDnuWxjqHNSSG2XAEgUDhkgqETMDbZ4WnuP5PhsonzyghorJm3cE/s1600/DSC_0353.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvhVEb_ZEV6NV5CJbI_xm2QfRukkchgpzkmp0aD4k5KeGIl2LCY8Te8QDAH77vqWyLuybq7wz0E_r238Sk4AdFsXWJDnuWxjqHNSSG2XAEgUDhkgqETMDbZ4WnuP5PhsonzyghorJm3cE/s200/DSC_0353.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480756983174354" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bn4aLOwlE8OmMxmd660Qa9vRO5E_8rmwroYNknA-yifpk-BeSE8MIchKVnwLUaNnoKFTZ-NLEEpVLlx1geXbTVj2se7GVEhTGz919fVA0FPbnrLd66GdkjHo96tGw3UC_NPNHSGZRag/s1600/DSC_0330.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bn4aLOwlE8OmMxmd660Qa9vRO5E_8rmwroYNknA-yifpk-BeSE8MIchKVnwLUaNnoKFTZ-NLEEpVLlx1geXbTVj2se7GVEhTGz919fVA0FPbnrLd66GdkjHo96tGw3UC_NPNHSGZRag/s200/DSC_0330.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480538269545458" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The Indian Museum's collection of religious sculpture included Buddhist sculpture from circa 2nd century Afghanistan, where the Buddha sometimes grew a moustache. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kbpvMo3neRbKF7XHlbo00x4rgpwJ1txNMGe2pmgO7fcYOu7Do1zMdZgkmylL5BN1YdT76qvzFWmMvCkBjmBIyY-fqvVKa0UMMGPC2FigGiape-Xmq0GPclm_K54pkYIYbgkU1TO65qg/s1600/DSC_0401.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kbpvMo3neRbKF7XHlbo00x4rgpwJ1txNMGe2pmgO7fcYOu7Do1zMdZgkmylL5BN1YdT76qvzFWmMvCkBjmBIyY-fqvVKa0UMMGPC2FigGiape-Xmq0GPclm_K54pkYIYbgkU1TO65qg/s200/DSC_0401.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480763878169234" border="0" /></a>My favourite was a 5th century Buddha which looked surprisingly realistic in comparison with the stylized sculpture that was normal at this time. The museum also had some <span style="font-style: italic;">creepy</span> bottled babies.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtn86rW7ZoiRhOo2KhnZ2A55csiM5TbP3WQtJ69A2zK9SJqoz7vnI5DSR7Kt5lyBG_9ypTcFo_Y5hWxuu6CX8_PrSXEIwZmLe3IDPQGT6A0ovSHdiJnSY-wc-i4C4JWJp86ywGrZfDW3Q/s1600/DSC_0462.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtn86rW7ZoiRhOo2KhnZ2A55csiM5TbP3WQtJ69A2zK9SJqoz7vnI5DSR7Kt5lyBG_9ypTcFo_Y5hWxuu6CX8_PrSXEIwZmLe3IDPQGT6A0ovSHdiJnSY-wc-i4C4JWJp86ywGrZfDW3Q/s200/DSC_0462.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480778576877090" border="0" /></a>The last day I saw a good play called Wire put on by Jadavpur University English department. I also hunted down the flower market, which is popular for photos. This guy caught his friends trying to put all kinds of flowers in his hair while he was posing. On the way there I was much more delighted to find the FRUIT market, where a banana auction was happening!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrKtwrmmoI1LT0HB2XfBwYcnmem2mXoSPiiz4euwYA-xeRCy4-8oDubtDPT43tOJqIi4sWU-KZCpTpKY8SkPof8Hb-vs9bnJo9xd9gJqqAAa2WaBpwUwDmzEIEO2jjQ4HfOygxmgbnBY/s1600/DSC_0443.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrKtwrmmoI1LT0HB2XfBwYcnmem2mXoSPiiz4euwYA-xeRCy4-8oDubtDPT43tOJqIi4sWU-KZCpTpKY8SkPof8Hb-vs9bnJo9xd9gJqqAAa2WaBpwUwDmzEIEO2jjQ4HfOygxmgbnBY/s200/DSC_0443.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465480771478592738" border="0" /></a>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-86160725487153127622010-04-25T01:10:00.000-07:002010-04-25T01:27:22.204-07:00Varanasi<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP9mD1l0crD9z8SmGq46zgOjrvo4MwqgBEVu8HR-IOfa0mxYZspfPToo16r91av8FQsJipCMGvXXHdTGThTdD2ig1VHK3kE3Gd0kRZkPo2bPdlCpcWOTAScZv6ttN0k7AxiC215BVGC-g/s1600/DSC_0893.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP9mD1l0crD9z8SmGq46zgOjrvo4MwqgBEVu8HR-IOfa0mxYZspfPToo16r91av8FQsJipCMGvXXHdTGThTdD2ig1VHK3kE3Gd0kRZkPo2bPdlCpcWOTAScZv6ttN0k7AxiC215BVGC-g/s200/DSC_0893.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987055083809426" border="0" /></a>Varanasi (formerly Benares) is the holy city on the Ganges river. Hindus consider it auspicious to be cremated here, and pilgrims travel here when they grow old. I would also add that when you arrive and smell the city, you say "Holy #@%&$!" <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHlLmYcdIwDULnxm6sT6YDSLh_ydwvrnBByGbQ338ZIFeve1G_JhJLB96w7EsQGE16z3_3WKldk5m7ptADfV0Pdfmz2TGqURbO6Geaz5TxMIRn6R70tzWDjNhKOiojDSfcc4m6YxajlI/s1600/DSC_0842.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHlLmYcdIwDULnxm6sT6YDSLh_ydwvrnBByGbQ338ZIFeve1G_JhJLB96w7EsQGE16z3_3WKldk5m7ptADfV0Pdfmz2TGqURbO6Geaz5TxMIRn6R70tzWDjNhKOiojDSfcc4m6YxajlI/s200/DSC_0842.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987036481981906" border="0" /></a>The 44 degree temperature probably contributed to the effect, but the open sewers didn't help.<br /><br /><br /><br />I found a beautiful spider in my bathroom. Sunscreen bottle <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMUhQfhO33k9-RAurZeDWLVWFJgWcYuUETF6UtvAZgzeiM-azB0SAiMe-On_D-CnYIj5dpgX3AjfKGntxe0m-yPNE2pchGHV7DdpNrU0xRLdNfgtg3yzYba0Ow3EAUlQKBy6xFycWEqs/s1600/DSC_0816.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMUhQfhO33k9-RAurZeDWLVWFJgWcYuUETF6UtvAZgzeiM-azB0SAiMe-On_D-CnYIj5dpgX3AjfKGntxe0m-yPNE2pchGHV7DdpNrU0xRLdNfgtg3yzYba0Ow3EAUlQKBy6xFycWEqs/s200/DSC_0816.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987031160407842" border="0" /></a>included for perspective.<br /><br /><br /><br />My mom told me that when she returned to Canada after visiting me here, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpJDk6a0Zwd0Na7O2pYoejkIfvQJONRWSAfWoMVpa0WZNd_eHS_lV0yN8yHpr9_-2LHFyYqDgGnhdB6OPL4d-4BlTKt0NfEbwK-OQcQ5NcHq5qttAZxV0boT9N9iW3ObKXthordAUdM8/s1600/DSC_0982.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpJDk6a0Zwd0Na7O2pYoejkIfvQJONRWSAfWoMVpa0WZNd_eHS_lV0yN8yHpr9_-2LHFyYqDgGnhdB6OPL4d-4BlTKt0NfEbwK-OQcQ5NcHq5qttAZxV0boT9N9iW3ObKXthordAUdM8/s200/DSC_0982.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987250222111874" border="0" /></a>people kept asking her if she saw cows wandering around everywhere. She didn't, but she didn't visit Varanasi. In the cow belt, they ARE everywhere. I took this photo of a cow checking out the menu at a restaurant.<br /><br /><br /><br />S<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxWP9JwEQaEep6BwUsLoize2bUQ26Ikt7madmMM5Tu3RdRF4DHgYXxEiBlyvRdilGseuKWxaAKtfmJFU_OQQeu3PUELEITP_etJYP3CwaC-RS_s8drDHwqrdwIhM07v94TCPLlUZn6IbY/s1600/DSC_0845.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxWP9JwEQaEep6BwUsLoize2bUQ26Ikt7madmMM5Tu3RdRF4DHgYXxEiBlyvRdilGseuKWxaAKtfmJFU_OQQeu3PUELEITP_etJYP3CwaC-RS_s8drDHwqrdwIhM07v94TCPLlUZn6IbY/s200/DSC_0845.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987046015656002" border="0" /></a>unrise and sunset boat rides are the best way to see the ghats, the steps down to the river's edge. Here people bathe, wash clothing, pray, teach, cremate the dead, and sell things. Because there were so many sales pitches, I often found it difficult to remember that most people come to the ghats to worship!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2tMrkZQtRSPk7q9zCjd9gZA8_VNJoMP9eVUKRwDpkdmhJSakg8Z18-Ljl3dnp782MBBFAdYUe9KbQGAqe1xhX7y-mo41tvpq5xEiP8wrG_UWG3SdgiWNP9yaegpwP8jU6jyTnjHr0meU/s1600/DSC_0946.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2tMrkZQtRSPk7q9zCjd9gZA8_VNJoMP9eVUKRwDpkdmhJSakg8Z18-Ljl3dnp782MBBFAdYUe9KbQGAqe1xhX7y-mo41tvpq5xEiP8wrG_UWG3SdgiWNP9yaegpwP8jU6jyTnjHr0meU/s200/DSC_0946.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987262921555650" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Lotus offerings to Mother Ganges float among the rowboats. Sometimes photography takes a little luck.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR4tzhkHH3MoUuNWWAEd5Zm6VWYowAQJFgNpV_YYno6GeDrJAzRSBmIbgPwAqxNyhzS2mxdCrHDZxOJcQhRQWvVeEQ_DSc8bPka6cnkG_S3H341_xXobUj7OXzrUOvdUj-runBwqprHNo/s1600/DSC_0867.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR4tzhkHH3MoUuNWWAEd5Zm6VWYowAQJFgNpV_YYno6GeDrJAzRSBmIbgPwAqxNyhzS2mxdCrHDZxOJcQhRQWvVeEQ_DSc8bPka6cnkG_S3H341_xXobUj7OXzrUOvdUj-runBwqprHNo/s200/DSC_0867.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987049250478546" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />A little Photoshop work on the photo with holy men crossing the ghats. The bathing man wasn't naked, but the colour of his shorts sure made it LOOK <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiphy5ACHLtKgaiUu5_GF9hvrhKaQwwDB0iv_5KsDmfRSWcOcwCrTGH4vSKI92UOiBzehwL8iyQQ3xDfpqmYbmdRMvmXz7UVgK8_6mblfyrl0BuMEhNtE_33HaB2Lctcn7StNF9DCxn3Tk/s1600/DSC_0954a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiphy5ACHLtKgaiUu5_GF9hvrhKaQwwDB0iv_5KsDmfRSWcOcwCrTGH4vSKI92UOiBzehwL8iyQQ3xDfpqmYbmdRMvmXz7UVgK8_6mblfyrl0BuMEhNtE_33HaB2Lctcn7StNF9DCxn3Tk/s200/DSC_0954a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987257781928626" border="0" /></a>like he was naked.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYZaVKR8q6kErNjeO8OwCsT8wJdmFjUqKWF5d_i-st2t8VM8l9hV5vIrK7vipMOUav4zNOn6uKgBsTO-Qu1obXJjd5mzyC0eEW2TOv2JCTMEd0qT1w6J-_9BHdQDibKRny-nMLjfTzz0/s1600/DSC_0924.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYZaVKR8q6kErNjeO8OwCsT8wJdmFjUqKWF5d_i-st2t8VM8l9hV5vIrK7vipMOUav4zNOn6uKgBsTO-Qu1obXJjd5mzyC0eEW2TOv2JCTMEd0qT1w6J-_9BHdQDibKRny-nMLjfTzz0/s200/DSC_0924.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463987271898317442" border="0" /></a>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-25131731128317094972010-04-18T22:34:00.000-07:002010-06-22T07:05:52.817-07:00Life of the Buddha<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdkw7O1xl7OmLfisDuxEolpG2NguokNHY8_-VMrp-wWg-7Dw2fvQ5QOHhiagis_pz1xyvl9zqRgGXTfY0p0Y45zk9JZnJxBPW2iQhOPvqw2ZS3I28m8jV1I-1fiJGMg6fOrzvTplMfCw/s1600/DSC_0605.jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">During one week I followed the Buddhist pilgrimage circuit of the four major events of the Buddha's life.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><br /><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOiCCGUODw6YT5r5ZoEhTcEbeEPZVF9KfNG91hB2vRJ8tfWZ2WVOiyTs3AUwgd-rl9Eolr5unJ-_vehCLCPxAJOXsgG-oVMU4IH1fR46mR-9jhKvYo2materaQO1qu982dfM8TkcwRHs/s1600/DSC_0605.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: right; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721113471005442" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOiCCGUODw6YT5r5ZoEhTcEbeEPZVF9KfNG91hB2vRJ8tfWZ2WVOiyTs3AUwgd-rl9Eolr5unJ-_vehCLCPxAJOXsgG-oVMU4IH1fR46mR-9jhKvYo2materaQO1qu982dfM8TkcwRHs/s200/DSC_0605.jpg" border="0" /></a>The Buddha was born in Lumbini in the 6th century BCE, a prince named Siddharta Gautama. Now Lumbini is in <st1:country-region st="on">Nepal</st1:country-region>, near the border with <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">India</st1:place></st1:country-region>. The Maya Devi temple, named after his mother, was built on the location, and is now surrounded by monastery ruins, prayer flags, and modern monasteries <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjo3TI9zCZd6ChaS5XSvnkP294X0MGo98ZxYjIlOudp2smi62iHU7IbveFc4wOVJSYQHKWTK4JjxqkN3ECJVCoIncqPgSMEqALFohLSVRTlvaKHyQjA-PM8-chYZG0_55MamzVF2-geY/s1600/DSC_0606.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 133px; float: left; height: 200px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721118001407842" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjo3TI9zCZd6ChaS5XSvnkP294X0MGo98ZxYjIlOudp2smi62iHU7IbveFc4wOVJSYQHKWTK4JjxqkN3ECJVCoIncqPgSMEqALFohLSVRTlvaKHyQjA-PM8-chYZG0_55MamzVF2-geY/s200/DSC_0606.jpg" border="0" /></a>built by pilgrims from around the world. In the 2nd century BCE, </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashoka_the_Great"><span style="font-size:85%;">Emperor Ashoka</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, who is the reason for the spread of Buddhism around the world, made a pilgrimage here and left one of his famous columns.</span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span> </p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Lumbini was also the site of one of my worst travel experiences ever, when I caught someone watching through the bathroom vent while I was showering. I'm sure he was working there, or had some relationship with the staff, although the managers all denied knowing who he was. Obviously, after shouting at the managers for a while, I stormed out to another hotel. Lumbini Guest House: Do <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFokBHq8Nt3V5wFQ1Ux1IFhmbGJyiYqNl80cC2dtVr_2J0DrASrK4eFPSNtEojHD6IOGd6PJaFGX6_liLXtpodBE3bLvr-uquYLm-xL0Z0-Pbj6aLxIvCujUYuBCxN0tzmOaMrNQhXAh0/s1600/DSC_0179.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 133px; float: right; height: 200px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721106513306002" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFokBHq8Nt3V5wFQ1Ux1IFhmbGJyiYqNl80cC2dtVr_2J0DrASrK4eFPSNtEojHD6IOGd6PJaFGX6_liLXtpodBE3bLvr-uquYLm-xL0Z0-Pbj6aLxIvCujUYuBCxN0tzmOaMrNQhXAh0/s200/DSC_0179.jpg" border="0" /></a>Not Stay!<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p></o:p></span></p><br /><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Bodhgaya is the holiest pilgrimage site for Buddhists, because this is where the Buddha achieved enlightenment, or nirvana, while sitting in meditation underneath a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodhi_Tree">bodhi tree</a>. A descendant of that tree is in front of the <st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on">Mahabodhi</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">Temple in the photo</st1:placetype></st1:place>. Surrounding the temple are numerous votive stupas built by pilgrims. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBDtVDn4JQUd7LGUS0OP7csgxssb8p5y9R3CGSjIAAv3srpxdd9vEZUm2_LHCDkqMKRnfJzOJ8soNNInpaXJ0BOfAeEQr3U_DFXgHbBGl_KvEDqjcuPxirz60BUrJIVNobq2IGMcLKrek/s1600/DSC_0166.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: left; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721101351514130" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBDtVDn4JQUd7LGUS0OP7csgxssb8p5y9R3CGSjIAAv3srpxdd9vEZUm2_LHCDkqMKRnfJzOJ8soNNInpaXJ0BOfAeEQr3U_DFXgHbBGl_KvEDqjcuPxirz60BUrJIVNobq2IGMcLKrek/s200/DSC_0166.jpg" border="0" /></a>Many of them are made of rubble of ruined stupas, with no apparent interest in putting puzzle pieces in order. Ashoka visited here too, and built an arch. Bodhgaya also has a huge Buddha statue, where I scorched my feet on a very brief attempt to approach the statue properly barefoot. The people who constructed the walkways in Bodhnath were definitely not thinking: red sandstone gets really hot in the sun, and even white marble is too uncomfortable. Black marble = egg-frying (or foot-frying) hot! I also attended a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zazen">zazen</a> session here--sitting meditation in the Japanese <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zen">Zen Buddhist</a> tradition.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><br /><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglX1S4kueYoTM3EFbqPUtUQ1pwxPmnUS1F9c2-O3fNvNYlz9btXq7pymBs5W_2GotoUnGRPbAG5J-rPR-jHSeXxE7NSFt2D8wiEq34ESB58iJIaixoAPAjdZCDcGfJ6g8iqgxIhebxa48/s1600/DSC_0088.jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 133px; float: right; height: 200px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461718748433274530" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglX1S4kueYoTM3EFbqPUtUQ1pwxPmnUS1F9c2-O3fNvNYlz9btXq7pymBs5W_2GotoUnGRPbAG5J-rPR-jHSeXxE7NSFt2D8wiEq34ESB58iJIaixoAPAjdZCDcGfJ6g8iqgxIhebxa48/s200/DSC_0088.jpg" border="0" /></span></a>Sarnath, where the Buddha began to teach the <st1:street st="on"><st1:address st="on">Middle Way</st1:address></st1:street>, is filled with gorgeous monastery ruins, the ruins of the huge Dhamekh Stupa with unique carvings, another Ashokan column, and a temple built by a Sri Lankan pilgrim, with lovely frescoes by Japanese artist Kosetsu Nosi. The archaeology museum here holds the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lion_Capital_of_Asoka">Ashokan lion capital</a>, now a symbol of <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">India</st1:place></st1:country-region> on all paper currency. The sculpture stands alone in craft and preservation; aside from a broken jaw on one lion, and other <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbh2wnnIx2qQFtYAAaougekESUAYmPuaTgCATiHgbW8z077aKTK0JgmaHhGmzUc7JQRxpz4mEn6R7OV6-Dpwun6M-shkV-FLEUtaNNFj1H984UTtxaXuQKXJQ7Hy3JzAwPuVqb_ne62wU/s1600/DSC_0048.jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: left; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461718740753008322" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbh2wnnIx2qQFtYAAaougekESUAYmPuaTgCATiHgbW8z077aKTK0JgmaHhGmzUc7JQRxpz4mEn6R7OV6-Dpwun6M-shkV-FLEUtaNNFj1H984UTtxaXuQKXJQ7Hy3JzAwPuVqb_ne62wU/s200/DSC_0048.jpg" border="0" /></span></a>minor bumps, it looks like it was carved last week. I was also fascinated with a large sculpture of a <a href="http://www.religionfacts.com/buddhism/symbols/parasol.htm">parasol</a>--important in Buddhist symbolism--but other visitors to the museum seemed much more fascinated with the foreigner.</span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyoZJwPK0kOeNRzZS_aMr2o2jjPdlMYG73vnhNfSc-Wgh_6MUjFXKeoVxlKhxRiL1PpByX0wWG9VtiSQREf5oPLWNEoCtapZq5dIMI-rt2opkBTqxAqR79klMl00AIwdketqaTxrpOnEk/s1600/DSC_0767.jpg"></a></span></span> </p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">The Buddha took mahaparinirvana (the great final nirvana)</span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyoZJwPK0kOeNRzZS_aMr2o2jjPdlMYG73vnhNfSc-Wgh_6MUjFXKeoVxlKhxRiL1PpByX0wWG9VtiSQREf5oPLWNEoCtapZq5dIMI-rt2opkBTqxAqR79klMl00AIwdketqaTxrpOnEk/s1600/DSC_0767.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: right; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721121212957826" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyoZJwPK0kOeNRzZS_aMr2o2jjPdlMYG73vnhNfSc-Wgh_6MUjFXKeoVxlKhxRiL1PpByX0wWG9VtiSQREf5oPLWNEoCtapZq5dIMI-rt2opkBTqxAqR79klMl00AIwdketqaTxrpOnEk/s200/DSC_0767.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"> in Kushinagar, when he was an old man. A person can achieve nirvana, or escape from suffering, during her life; someone who dies in this state achieves parinirvana, and escapes from the cycle of rebirths. As far as I know, only the Buddha claims mahaparinirvana. A stupa was built on the site, and a temple to house the 5th century CE statue, carved from red sandstone, and now covere<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPxCHZUPx0eaa9-0eUNrMg2IncOHadBOg5ADN0aSjWSoiPuOH49UZ457GdTA8OTP5sWK1GEzbgLYeUSy1_FCEPvdqdk4XHnlN3-ER-Ctm3cy3cEeV-JaKrqCgdKjai0ycCKydANNKRxks/s1600/DSC_0808.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: left; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721415150348018" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPxCHZUPx0eaa9-0eUNrMg2IncOHadBOg5ADN0aSjWSoiPuOH49UZ457GdTA8OTP5sWK1GEzbgLYeUSy1_FCEPvdqdk4XHnlN3-ER-Ctm3cy3cEeV-JaKrqCgdKjai0ycCKydANNKRxks/s200/DSC_0808.jpg" border="0" /></a>d in gold leaf by pilgrims. Here also are the ruins of a huge stupa, and a temple built on the site of the Buddha's last sermon.<o:p></o:p></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p></o:p></span></p><br /><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">All of these sites were windy, dry, dusty, and hot--around 40 to 45 Celsius. While traveling around by bus, train, and <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPOLDWdHpdowSshnuPdBf6INfW6t4tCA_lfStUMqvZJLvq0A8eS3-V5DPGkP6ZoQpg2DWtsWY-bGRZuP5iibYjGU1f6U6uu-Qw7KNKIZh3FOWYFkXpwttshX2Hnt2KsfmsQpmTGQY5JIk/s1600/DSC_0779.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: right; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721410958698130" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPOLDWdHpdowSshnuPdBf6INfW6t4tCA_lfStUMqvZJLvq0A8eS3-V5DPGkP6ZoQpg2DWtsWY-bGRZuP5iibYjGU1f6U6uu-Qw7KNKIZh3FOWYFkXpwttshX2Hnt2KsfmsQpmTGQY5JIk/s200/DSC_0779.jpg" border="0" /></a>foot, the parched landscape caused me some deep anxiety. I wonder if this was a completely unfamiliar landscape to me, having grown up in the middle of vast amounts of water in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Lakes">Canadian Great Lakes</a>, when two weeks without rain is considered "dry." Or perhaps this was some other deeper fear of the f<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5Iv9M5EBMAYkMzRhy3n9t8dfdj2Fqszyf3Idq3cQH90FnR-S07BrLiPO6omHWEEdMNIRL5LvGHu9WxHxhzKUaSuBnnJ0spcow6oDnmxzAJAjiddCBSjQvHlCjr59AMOghDqMtjZKfMc/s1600/DSC_0812.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px; float: left; height: 133px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461721417639648786" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5Iv9M5EBMAYkMzRhy3n9t8dfdj2Fqszyf3Idq3cQH90FnR-S07BrLiPO6omHWEEdMNIRL5LvGHu9WxHxhzKUaSuBnnJ0spcow6oDnmxzAJAjiddCBSjQvHlCjr59AMOghDqMtjZKfMc/s200/DSC_0812.jpg" border="0" /></a>amine that is often associated with such a landscape. I've included photos of the dust blowing across the road, and the necessity of covering up from the sun and blowing dust. No, I don't look like a "terrorist," I look like someone trying to keep cool, and to keep dust out of my mouth, nose, and ears. It seems counterproductive, but covering yourself from the sun in such a heat makes a big difference. Drinking 4 litres of water a day also helps.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-40876152374317494642010-04-11T00:45:00.000-07:002010-04-11T01:03:57.978-07:00Around Kathmandu, and Pokara<span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >I'm looking back to last week for this post, but I wanted to add a short note about right now. It is 40-45 degrees during the day right now, which is REALLY REALLY hot!! I've found it interesting that when it gets so hot, I better cover up. I generally don't go outside without covering my head, and I'm sorry that I didn't bring a long-sleeved cotton shirt.</span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /><br /></span><a style="font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCV_iGPSYPnQo9jGH3zDowwrzI-XDfY58K9_3sKoR1mj7IVXPPsS28mL-EybHtU8d-LK_ReOeWcWNSEUTB6D0NZcxU-z_ZdP7Mk5AaOW8o8QyBk82xnQ-UrBPDgjerac5f3iclq5TSVc/s1600/DSC_0952.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCV_iGPSYPnQo9jGH3zDowwrzI-XDfY58K9_3sKoR1mj7IVXPPsS28mL-EybHtU8d-LK_ReOeWcWNSEUTB6D0NZcxU-z_ZdP7Mk5AaOW8o8QyBk82xnQ-UrBPDgjerac5f3iclq5TSVc/s200/DSC_0952.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458786220357368450" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >My last few days in Kathmandu I spent visiting the areas outside the centre. Bodhnath (also known as Boudha) is yet another stupa said to contain a relic of the Buddha. I spent half the day wandering around visitin</span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >g the monasteries and watching the pilgrims. </span><a style="font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgPiIFy_l2KfDa1tlRt61Mzcm2_ewgBKTCNt_KwOCjQGsWAwtqv4bYFxLUcrorYDHTIW5TPWQQymDRzmGv06bFzatGhgidWY0v_6_nxzx-A4jDrp3fcA_Txy11dPV138XjlXaiZZBKok/s1600/DSC_1002.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgPiIFy_l2KfDa1tlRt61Mzcm2_ewgBKTCNt_KwOCjQGsWAwtqv4bYFxLUcrorYDHTIW5TPWQQymDRzmGv06bFzatGhgidWY0v_6_nxzx-A4jDrp3fcA_Txy11dPV138XjlXaiZZBKok/s200/DSC_1002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458786225130965762" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >One monk led me through a prayer in a monastery. For a while, I also watched a nun prostrating herself around the circumfrence of the stupa. I also tried Tibetan tea, which is made with yak butter.<o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDmowJBDiSqhEolkEfCVOd2v2MULlW98QiVCHeUjJW8Jak0vpje3tkK8DH8u4VpIlVd0s0sCdtbhTvpflPARFzFy7Sv6ib7D5APgNFjekMIPeGUZDLDvov8JByeeWeWD2jIdenAs60WY/s1600/DSC_0035_01.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDmowJBDiSqhEolkEfCVOd2v2MULlW98QiVCHeUjJW8Jak0vpje3tkK8DH8u4VpIlVd0s0sCdtbhTvpflPARFzFy7Sv6ib7D5APgNFjekMIPeGUZDLDvov8JByeeWeWD2jIdenAs60WY/s200/DSC_0035_01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458784939207592930" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;">From there I made my way to a tiny village which has a beautiful Vajrayogini temple. On the climb I met a god coming down the mountain, carried by people living there. Just as I got to the top it started to rain and thunder, which was great because I had been missing rain and thunderstorms, but not so great for photos. I also had some time where I thought I might get soaked getting back down the mountain in time for the last bus.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbGBRgjFYi0zTFj4GwbJrWfNtbRp7aVCGQNI90RRN7nOXQkWCpIOdFTw0kedGu-Pxl8YgrnMgwpLQ4FLnAd3pIhUb1Th7S1eluSPub6G3FDerD1ml0cLbepWZdtYlVWRHeHcIo-3JBNI/s1600/DSC_0102_01.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbGBRgjFYi0zTFj4GwbJrWfNtbRp7aVCGQNI90RRN7nOXQkWCpIOdFTw0kedGu-Pxl8YgrnMgwpLQ4FLnAd3pIhUb1Th7S1eluSPub6G3FDerD1ml0cLbepWZdtYlVWRHeHcIo-3JBNI/s200/DSC_0102_01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458784947707249634" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;">The next day I visited Patan, and was very impressed with its Durbar Square. I've included a photo where you can see King Yoganarendra's statue on a pillar in the centre, which is over 300 years old. This square was much quieter than the one in Kathmandu proper, because traffic was blocked, and there were no markets set up.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefBRSSbcKZxLVGwqPqJzCXmmmgiv8unttUZ5ZOyloueNVMI-aTzVD3lQrqnAD2mVjg2_kLftZNLE8SmZx6HLvkxGs5RgbKlmZnMBTnXakYC-EaGuUyXMLXKHTi7QKm8dyulIodHyJBss/s1600/DSC_0239_01.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefBRSSbcKZxLVGwqPqJzCXmmmgiv8unttUZ5ZOyloueNVMI-aTzVD3lQrqnAD2mVjg2_kLftZNLE8SmZx6HLvkxGs5RgbKlmZnMBTnXakYC-EaGuUyXMLXKHTi7QKm8dyulIodHyJBss/s200/DSC_0239_01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458784948556742930" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;">On a walking tour around Patan I came upon a festival at the Kumbeshwar Temple, which has five storeys. I'm not sure what was going on, but almost all the women were dressed in red saris, and the focus was on teenage boys dressed in yellow, with shaven heads and decorated bow and arrows. I watched them go through several stages of puja.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDKp5msZ4_6sudaaCYlqkU5cjqSqJPSVhaLiToXCji24cS0LJT4FMiYl2igp3gHlcPN7IKbHbmVLgimjjjXNmnHu6ynW99koalb_wj5Bp1Cezff_cVKo-AkdI_-lu24zK4q7ADT8mkJM/s1600/DSC_0294_01.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDKp5msZ4_6sudaaCYlqkU5cjqSqJPSVhaLiToXCji24cS0LJT4FMiYl2igp3gHlcPN7IKbHbmVLgimjjjXNmnHu6ynW99koalb_wj5Bp1Cezff_cVKo-AkdI_-lu24zK4q7ADT8mkJM/s200/DSC_0294_01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458784953226358914" border="0" /></a></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">The Buddhist Golden Temple was filled with beautiful icons, and you can see more photos in the Facebook B-list. Nepali temples are strikingly different from Indian temples. They are usually built with pagodas, and I saw as many as 5 tiers on the roof. They also have a metal banner laying down one side, which I don't know the meaning of, and I definitely intend to learn more about this style of religious architecture!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hzksD6utVmQHMQDsqfjpV9DCZMQlE-Yp8s16G9Th0w9GucKaAmLoeRqeKTqgox7ckCjUiXUNjghb2QyfrxfuM4vWHfU-1hWKHHCl5W5_MMPYtkUcPKwXbYpFcQJuL8_T9FbIXHKpJAI/s1600/DSC_0413.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hzksD6utVmQHMQDsqfjpV9DCZMQlE-Yp8s16G9Th0w9GucKaAmLoeRqeKTqgox7ckCjUiXUNjghb2QyfrxfuM4vWHfU-1hWKHHCl5W5_MMPYtkUcPKwXbYpFcQJuL8_T9FbIXHKpJAI/s200/DSC_0413.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458785239995296354" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" face="arial"><span style="font-size:85%;">Pokhara is a much smaller and MUCH quieter tourist town, where many people begin a trek to the Annapurna range in the Himalayas. Due to a lack of time and a still-healing ankle, I only did short walks around the hills. On the hike</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZ1BFmrNlImpEFPZd_wi2ZDu09sysvBuBWfFoIEVlB8WmacPErVvoO_TnqAQV5rHbiMg2BFtMA6ERcGMVLG80h-TkuLm7tdKlV0r0ABHxbtjcc2vvrw9RX9m9E4z0SGpR5fKLmQlevNg/s1600/DSC_0388.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZ1BFmrNlImpEFPZd_wi2ZDu09sysvBuBWfFoIEVlB8WmacPErVvoO_TnqAQV5rHbiMg2BFtMA6ERcGMVLG80h-TkuLm7tdKlV0r0ABHxbtjcc2vvrw9RX9m9E4z0SGpR5fKLmQlevNg/s200/DSC_0388.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458784962635873474" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> to the World Peace Pagoda I grabbed the first foreigner I saw, so I wouldn't have to walk alone. He happened to be a really cool American named Ben, and I don't think we ever ran out of things to talk about. First, Devi's Falls, with some amazing erosion, but not such an amazing amount of water. I'm really starting to see the effect of the summer dry season. I was somewhat disappointed with the World Peace Pagoda. I hear it has some really great views of the Annapurnas, but the haze/pollution really got in the way of seeing anything.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" face="arial"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qUH8uZ-abi6bZ8DX7bGUmAlGEM9h0FYPI_m4qmbxAynTeUIvjoQZx3GiA-tNVGJ59GR2ftAPkL_kFQp9dGz_kCo4zNhVMCAvwa-jNLxfPnUz3HTLkoNliL9E4AgG05ZZJkWBzmP0wAs/s1600/DSC_0441.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qUH8uZ-abi6bZ8DX7bGUmAlGEM9h0FYPI_m4qmbxAynTeUIvjoQZx3GiA-tNVGJ59GR2ftAPkL_kFQp9dGz_kCo4zNhVMCAvwa-jNLxfPnUz3HTLkoNliL9E4AgG05ZZJkWBzmP0wAs/s200/DSC_0441.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458785240064162642" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Finding Ben to split the cost of an early morning (five am) taxi made it worthwhile to go up into the mountains to Sarangkot, where there are legendary views of the sunrise in the mountains. That day there was a running commentary from a stout German man to everyone within range, so there was no doubt when the sun rose over the mountains. It was amazing to see Macchupucchre, the most distinctive peak in the range, looming through the early morning glow. It shook me repeatedly to realize that when I looked for the peak, I always needed to look higher. </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHCl8SeIoQSn51OwJ_pw8A8CCNJG_L71x445r1w-j4Sc5sWmcO4lHVZJnYhQiNzAdo0meZCwcd-LE84l2NXPsofc3s7tXkSr-aKvS14w1rttNGLtvXJg5zlFAwkGwJgcJWFpqtaTXzdc/s1600/DSC_0529.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHCl8SeIoQSn51OwJ_pw8A8CCNJG_L71x445r1w-j4Sc5sWmcO4lHVZJnYhQiNzAdo0meZCwcd-LE84l2NXPsofc3s7tXkSr-aKvS14w1rttNGLtvXJg5zlFAwkGwJgcJWFpqtaTXzdc/s200/DSC_0529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458785250564973330" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Then, the best yet. After a small breakfast on the mountain, we decided to go back for one more look, and there were the mountains! It continued to get clearer for the next hour, but it was impossible to capture on film. The mountains actually fill the sky.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGc9-qPCOYTY_wGxjvzf18p1JHlDDTAfJ4oqrfegMsnZEVudhNdoqjVg3Mwsz9MF7Cr9mWhwsyD0N1_cvGsrK3ZhykII1x-pBeS3Yv5cYcf5Li_6SPCFHT1kq62KjrM5tuQ1vZQgE_kY/s1600/DSC_0574.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGc9-qPCOYTY_wGxjvzf18p1JHlDDTAfJ4oqrfegMsnZEVudhNdoqjVg3Mwsz9MF7Cr9mWhwsyD0N1_cvGsrK3ZhykII1x-pBeS3Yv5cYcf5Li_6SPCFHT1kq62KjrM5tuQ1vZQgE_kY/s200/DSC_0574.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458785259587994258" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">The hike back down was nearly as interesting, because we decided to disregard the locals' advice that we "wouldn't find the path" and spent some time wandering through the terraced fields, and eventually walking down a dry stony riverbed. </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LrLYBOh2jxJXJs5JMmRgcnEtGgZQ5bEh5TrHZLs6eElNaccPNhvQXNDZt5NjHOX_iN4XNf0TK1pBSWoIFhzEDRvduV9jUqcRwnVOkYjYzVogjNisi4yiUcCTdlFAgST5zRcE8EvXtNU/s1600/DSC_0570.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LrLYBOh2jxJXJs5JMmRgcnEtGgZQ5bEh5TrHZLs6eElNaccPNhvQXNDZt5NjHOX_iN4XNf0TK1pBSWoIFhzEDRvduV9jUqcRwnVOkYjYzVogjNisi4yiUcCTdlFAgST5zRcE8EvXtNU/s200/DSC_0570.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458785253781711074" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">That afternoon we visited one of the Tibetan refugee settlements, and watched young monks at the monastery sit through a ceremony with various levels of boredom. Finally, since the local public transportation is not designed for tourists (ie. non-existent for tourists), we hitched a ride back into town on a tractor. That got us plenty of smiles from the locals we passed!<o:p></o:p></span></p>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-82677443015645155122010-03-31T04:55:00.000-07:002010-06-22T07:10:37.315-07:00Kathmandu<span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >My exodus from India went as planned, but that meant about 30 hours on the road, from my front door to the hotel in Kathmandu. That meant a flight from Pune to Delhi, a layover in Delhi before a flight to Patna. From Patna I caught an overnight bus to the India-Nepal border almost right away, on which I bruised my head falling asleep against the window. The last leg of t</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkoeQJiIRessljbzCaNHUI4Y_SQGM8YgwAXyaN_kSDnG4u0I7TrImPLZb4lQEfTODnv5E9BU-t3J4PfQoT1PJHrs8ozm1eZacLjc5kQgTF62YdaLrzgmF8AvmD0ybjFOqs3ghicI5wf80/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkoeQJiIRessljbzCaNHUI4Y_SQGM8YgwAXyaN_kSDnG4u0I7TrImPLZb4lQEfTODnv5E9BU-t3J4PfQoT1PJHrs8ozm1eZacLjc5kQgTF62YdaLrzgmF8AvmD0ybjFOqs3ghicI5wf80/s200/DSC_0051.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766527928131042" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >he trip from Raxaul/Birganj to Kathmandu was the most difficult. I took a cramped jeep over six hours of bone-bruising, joint-cracking, muscle-pounding bumpy roads through the mountains. After already being tired from travelling for 24 hours, it completely exhausted me. The gorgeous views of the mountains and valleys barely made up for it. Obviously I took the afternoon to recover and get a sense of the city.<o:p></o:p></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Here I got to know my new camera, which meant, of course, a bunch of overexposed photos. I didn't lose anything serious, and once I figured it out, got a few great shots that wouldn't be possible with my old point-and-shoot. I started on a walking tour south of the tourist area in Thamel to the main historic area Durbar square. Buddhism in Nepal comes from a different stream than Indian Buddhism, from the </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWdMplgDg_iujaEZdumuve_1l8YoB2W28K5LoonMjJoIGDcJvT6ZTkqbOwyrIJAXs4mlzxHxt-3diqDQSwa5uMjgE7kvnDUfZ5tlcaWtFKAyezQSAucIld9IMBquGC3C7Pii8atjML3o/s1600/DSC_0066.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWdMplgDg_iujaEZdumuve_1l8YoB2W28K5LoonMjJoIGDcJvT6ZTkqbOwyrIJAXs4mlzxHxt-3diqDQSwa5uMjgE7kvnDUfZ5tlcaWtFKAyezQSAucIld9IMBquGC3C7Pii8atjML3o/s200/DSC_0066.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766530684138818" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vajrayana">Vajrayana</a>, or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tibet">Tibetan</a>, school. Most people are familiar with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalai_Lama">Dalai Lama</a>; this is the school of Buddhism to which he belongs. Often Hindus and Buddhists will pray at the same temple. It was fascinating to see how the features of the gods changed in a different culture; people certainly create god in their o</span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >wn image! In Nepal, porters carry incredibly huge loads. Shortly after I took this photo, this man put this package -- which looked as if it must be filled with rocks -- onto his back and carried it down the street.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfKM_elQrjTSX2XzKVPbJZPKlX-a-7fdjcHnV-0ouvEEKIBIi38c2zCXV0OnTGaCOSEk1UtZkl2u6wXJD1aqrVpeU-os0d40j6mPKVcpmMLb850fbtM0wwIk5gypkO29keAqkZMZTWw9c/s1600/DSC_0138.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfKM_elQrjTSX2XzKVPbJZPKlX-a-7fdjcHnV-0ouvEEKIBIi38c2zCXV0OnTGaCOSEk1UtZkl2u6wXJD1aqrVpeU-os0d40j6mPKVcpmMLb850fbtM0wwIk5gypkO29keAqkZMZTWw9c/s200/DSC_0138.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766535441171986" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >I spent a lot of time at the Seto Machendranath Temple, which is a large temple covered in gold-coloured metal decoration, has prayer wheels around the walls and wooden carvings in the roof supports. Many small <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stupa">stupas</a> fill the square around it, and several beautiful statues of the gods. </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >I've included here a photo of the two <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tara_%28Buddhism%29">Taras</a>, who are Buddhist Goddesses. I found it somewhat annoying that the square was also filled with pigeons, so it was difficult to take a photo without including them.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UuVo9NVVAXi12u50Fcwgbj-jUg0z1IskjCnyPsKCWkayg_Nda3-A5LQxTkxOtvOzOGvDtOdDXeizavidYSdYJM0qHIeFLGamy0ecA-7TBfqtfUaoBaN70OxPI0Ej7GszGvD99idvHhQ/s1600/DSC_0417.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UuVo9NVVAXi12u50Fcwgbj-jUg0z1IskjCnyPsKCWkayg_Nda3-A5LQxTkxOtvOzOGvDtOdDXeizavidYSdYJM0qHIeFLGamy0ecA-7TBfqtfUaoBaN70OxPI0Ej7GszGvD99idvHhQ/s200/DSC_0417.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766968364287538" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Durbar Square is the main historical centre, with temples dating back to the 12th century. One of my favourites was the </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7rgA5T53NSJ8mOAbNgQPxK7Yeduk1ZMGebSziYveEA5uOzhSXYPQLnBwrVJrM7842a08YHjyK4TDQWW5eWOSUE269Rtmr3WsBLzo-F5KQMv7G7BKCw3rkDrlwNlcSP5NrfylumYAlOE/s1600/DSC_0299.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7rgA5T53NSJ8mOAbNgQPxK7Yeduk1ZMGebSziYveEA5uOzhSXYPQLnBwrVJrM7842a08YHjyK4TDQWW5eWOSUE269Rtmr3WsBLzo-F5KQMv7G7BKCw3rkDrlwNlcSP5NrfylumYAlOE/s200/DSC_0299.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766541347151218" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Shiva-Parvati temple, where the holy couple peer out of the top window. </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >I was also very excited to be able to see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumari_%28children%29">Kumari Devi</a>, the living goddess of Nepal, who lives in a house with beautifully carved wooden windows. Wood carvings are used in Nepal much more often than in India, where most of the carvings are stone. Photos of the Kumari are not allowed, but photos of her courtyard are.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKjE3hjNM606N6LXU-f3ayMzLKh6vB9Ip0EZqPoonnIodMqNWy0zqXgpvI3ZosCKFx3JcRG0MxLPj3gEccJAzk3K_fjyqQlL5kZYCuXQd26oEVB9EmQAsFrNMAJJL6avbGIB7g1_zlc4/s1600/DSC_0311.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKjE3hjNM606N6LXU-f3ayMzLKh6vB9Ip0EZqPoonnIodMqNWy0zqXgpvI3ZosCKFx3JcRG0MxLPj3gEccJAzk3K_fjyqQlL5kZYCuXQd26oEVB9EmQAsFrNMAJJL6avbGIB7g1_zlc4/s200/DSC_0311.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766553236039426" border="0" /></a></span></p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPj_VGulKJNfuLatcbGIKWjElz2DJMzMxyqCLTSqiM342sE_7Jx48Re_L16uIEPdUifIeuYbkeNp5nA9PpS3-JkvJ4p2NoBAjEWLims9FWh9YmFAQAKtvaBpWLKSCIXYWgzrBHLqOEDc/s1600/DSC_0742.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPj_VGulKJNfuLatcbGIKWjElz2DJMzMxyqCLTSqiM342sE_7Jx48Re_L16uIEPdUifIeuYbkeNp5nA9PpS3-JkvJ4p2NoBAjEWLims9FWh9YmFAQAKtvaBpWLKSCIXYWgzrBHLqOEDc/s200/DSC_0742.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766985432745426" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVl5hqbrmKBHlqzl_LHnPnQW4YJcpTGi46rLyZ4OxtHzeK-nvWHynVD7Xt3d2Ys28WVmBnIVvR7p1FwDlORETC6R2uL7nhloOuu0UkouwLXgOrc1DxSqDYj2RC2zcATt2wAS_s2vvyvg/s1600/DSC_0639.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVl5hqbrmKBHlqzl_LHnPnQW4YJcpTGi46rLyZ4OxtHzeK-nvWHynVD7Xt3d2Ys28WVmBnIVvR7p1FwDlORETC6R2uL7nhloOuu0UkouwLXgOrc1DxSqDYj2RC2zcATt2wAS_s2vvyvg/s200/DSC_0639.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766974187964146" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Early one morning I visited Swayambhunath, the site of one of the most important stupas in the Kathmandu Valley. Pilgrims were circling the stupa and spinning the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prayer_wheel">prayer wheels</a>, or standing in line to visit the goddess Hariti. There is an important <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gompa">gompa</a> here as well, with a huge golden statue of <a href="en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gautama_Buddha">Sakyamuni Buddha</a>. Prayer wheels come in all sizes, but these children were playing around -- I don't think it really took both of them to turn the wheel! The stupa platform and the surrounding Tibetan settlements are filled with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prayer_flag">prayer flags</a> as well as with prayer wheels. Each flag has a prayer printed on it, and every time the wind blows it, it sends the prayer. Likewise, every prayer wheel has a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantr">mantra</a> on it, and every time a pilgrim spins the wheel, it sends the prayer. Before I left I circled the stupa to spin the prayer wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >On another</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguU3yREmolChyphenhyphenoccCuuWpo_DLK15Ov-iJVYJYnco6vC8OcRGlWEg6L1ZjXIFSRQQJ4bpdtDnXfNGWujfeBfzUT1Wt7T74fBUKa0ezNO0ZEhz1wnl_RJeMa1KBvezgNN5FweY8rRv-Gsjw/s1600/DSC_0712.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguU3yREmolChyphenhyphenoccCuuWpo_DLK15Ov-iJVYJYnco6vC8OcRGlWEg6L1ZjXIFSRQQJ4bpdtDnXfNGWujfeBfzUT1Wt7T74fBUKa0ezNO0ZEhz1wnl_RJeMa1KBvezgNN5FweY8rRv-Gsjw/s200/DSC_0712.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766983892108082" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" > tour of the city I found children climbing on and residents praying at a huge chariot! These chariots are built for festivals and are incredibly tall. I didn't see them move it, but I can't imagine how it doesn't fall over when they roll it around the city. (Or how they maneuver around the knots of electrical wires that seem to fill every intersection.)</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveP5KUYwxI7RXoBc5mHKZ-56eLA23_fPQK6f3KTFV1kuxthTul18PJ0U3Sew5-K7kFRkJ_QlzW2y8Ot0L-X_TgcXPe-vw0SPG-9QnFqllUFFSkS1kkKKtSlmV1zU12E0HtH8oj_pgEuw/s1600/DSC_0839.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveP5KUYwxI7RXoBc5mHKZ-56eLA23_fPQK6f3KTFV1kuxthTul18PJ0U3Sew5-K7kFRkJ_QlzW2y8Ot0L-X_TgcXPe-vw0SPG-9QnFqllUFFSkS1kkKKtSlmV1zU12E0HtH8oj_pgEuw/s200/DSC_0839.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454766997113801890" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Finally, the good news is that the quarrel with India is reconciled, although I think that government officials will always be ready to remind me of the fight for the rest of the year, if not the remainder of my passport, if I ever return to India in the coming years. So I'll be heading back into India in a week or two, to make the long trip back to Pune.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p>Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-34867404127274153422010-03-23T04:45:00.000-07:002010-03-23T05:00:21.420-07:00Delhi and Amritsar<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeSZ4iiluBAIHFth-ts7DrOlScPpXEV6PFXb5RJiiu3vR9-hsKAK4UnJfo1FNQM1swXdqqnheknXjpjvwMYiU6TSaBZvKowvFrQTZ3cgJTRXl5h_DJ23DD4I_6n8hdsIibjnBl0-mvlYY/s1600-h/IMG_7328.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeSZ4iiluBAIHFth-ts7DrOlScPpXEV6PFXb5RJiiu3vR9-hsKAK4UnJfo1FNQM1swXdqqnheknXjpjvwMYiU6TSaBZvKowvFrQTZ3cgJTRXl5h_DJ23DD4I_6n8hdsIibjnBl0-mvlYY/s200/IMG_7328.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796281408606290" border="0" /></a>Funny, I'm posting from Delhi on a stopover on my way to Nepal! I was here less than a week ago! I spent some time shopping for books at the Jahawarlal Nehru University with a friend's boyfriend, Ankush.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu9nhf0edM0Lsy6fblaHxFfxYYVenuCOYU5aSS4ARS396Bv_jXmv-JgLAr5ulLootZX2XCFcpr6g3vvcGCL_Xan8JqV2ZI02ZDkq6og0kLFqwyzZGmTRHbETAhMeHwVPOkSZQtuftvD6I/s1600-h/IMG_7327.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu9nhf0edM0Lsy6fblaHxFfxYYVenuCOYU5aSS4ARS396Bv_jXmv-JgLAr5ulLootZX2XCFcpr6g3vvcGCL_Xan8JqV2ZI02ZDkq6og0kLFqwyzZGmTRHbETAhMeHwVPOkSZQtuftvD6I/s200/IMG_7327.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796276273612274" border="0" /></a> (If anyone knows where I can get a copy of the Therigathas -- preferably in Nepal, I would really appreciate it!) Then we visited Qutb Minar, a tower planned by the first Muslim Indian ruler Qutb-ud-din Aibak, I was amazed with the intricate carvings, and I'll probably go back some day just to take some photos in different lighting. The surrounding complex was built from the rubble of Hindu and Jain temples that were originally on the site, continuing the age-old culture-wide tradition<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJA-vlDRTt12-kJA-IGv-q7pFgh-zA7svxh13xBalZooRlkSnkYbOf5altj8tUT2J0RNAuW-om74n047j-UJnPabsuwyDvChvWP45Grnsi1xlR02yLnyyaVKN5ix2-30b9t0xH0KeaLvY/s1600-h/IMG_7341.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJA-vlDRTt12-kJA-IGv-q7pFgh-zA7svxh13xBalZooRlkSnkYbOf5altj8tUT2J0RNAuW-om74n047j-UJnPabsuwyDvChvWP45Grnsi1xlR02yLnyyaVKN5ix2-30b9t0xH0KeaLvY/s200/IMG_7341.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796299510020658" border="0" /></a> of knocking other people's buildings down to build your own on top. The shorter unfinished<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbqKwR2Y5thwoty3Q3oPjZbkfR1D4oadgz_qdvxCKbNSauwYrpPIhR8PRYUDYRQcTtRmGvwVx8koH6gkGOoOHptEpkr9hlMZSyBu9mnhFd3zZcgMkUu8CF3kgONRNoWqGC5fRGfe_gX0/s1600-h/IMG_7310.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbqKwR2Y5thwoty3Q3oPjZbkfR1D4oadgz_qdvxCKbNSauwYrpPIhR8PRYUDYRQcTtRmGvwVx8koH6gkGOoOHptEpkr9hlMZSyBu9mnhFd3zZcgMkUu8CF3kgONRNoWqGC5fRGfe_gX0/s200/IMG_7310.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796270002737490" border="0" /></a> tower was meant to be taller, but they just couldn't get it up.<br /><br />The next few days I spent sick in bed, with a brief and traumatizing train trip to Amritsar because I bought my ticket before I got sick. I was lucky to stay at Hotel Grace, where the owners were incredibly friendly, checked up on me regularly, and even made me a snack once! Basically I lived on biscuits and water for almost five days.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyNgrNaTHlL1jW2OwiihKLnwxaKz2T2Mt9xpnPPsBYsMJT5HpuLLrpb4IZ_9H6CA_0udIZY8AedO707By2jboApRmaKZzxWB7lhckBQiOsmKaL589jBhSP5gTKGnAB79HS684gNlIcmc/s1600-h/IMG_7438.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyNgrNaTHlL1jW2OwiihKLnwxaKz2T2Mt9xpnPPsBYsMJT5HpuLLrpb4IZ_9H6CA_0udIZY8AedO707By2jboApRmaKZzxWB7lhckBQiOsmKaL589jBhSP5gTKGnAB79HS684gNlIcmc/s200/IMG_7438.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796292248437874" border="0" /></a>Once I recovered I took the short trip to the Pakistani border to watch the border closing ceremony at the only land crossing between the two countries. It was fascinating! It's a combination of pep rally -- including a dance party with Bollywood tunes -- and choreographed border guard demonstration.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XvSL6rqF0F5VwuaIc7tEE2W2yw_a9ePMRgy67JTCdrFeic9dVHtlU8My6F49_bjErfWtddkZZL9I5KqKXueDKrAWlX73O_PbPS6xK7wCMllXOD83CWRMNRIC8QiyZmXXDxRiRmJOs8E/s1600-h/IMG_7594.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XvSL6rqF0F5VwuaIc7tEE2W2yw_a9ePMRgy67JTCdrFeic9dVHtlU8My6F49_bjErfWtddkZZL9I5KqKXueDKrAWlX73O_PbPS6xK7wCMllXOD83CWRMNRIC8QiyZmXXDxRiRmJOs8E/s200/IMG_7594.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796593333596562" border="0" /></a>I also visited Jallianwala Bagh, the walled park where British soldiers fired without warning on a peaceful demonstration and killed hundreds of people. The park is a beautiful but sad monument to the tragedy. I've included a photo of the Martyrs' Well; people jumped into the well trying to escape the bullets.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1a1evFiqGh-Pw2-lnbx-FaiCWqpsbNeA-CFoE5BwR8aZzw3wVFe6AxgWM3LhFZscN2muQ_LxWbZqAnYXItWJubljiw_WUXktwQp0AX2QUPGQs0ASsV3NLlOQzC_jZkYi8Lu8f-bIgl94/s1600-h/IMG_7478.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1a1evFiqGh-Pw2-lnbx-FaiCWqpsbNeA-CFoE5BwR8aZzw3wVFe6AxgWM3LhFZscN2muQ_LxWbZqAnYXItWJubljiw_WUXktwQp0AX2QUPGQs0ASsV3NLlOQzC_jZkYi8Lu8f-bIgl94/s200/IMG_7478.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796564755957170" border="0" /></a>Lal Devi Temple was one of the more memorable Hindu temples I've visited. It's like a funhouse! You climb up and down ramps and stairs, cross over bridges, crawl through passageways, and double back on the path. There's a rack of bells that everyone loves to ring, and some of the passageways are tiled in mirrors. Through one passageway you even walk through ankle-deep water, which delighted me and more than one child. After the fun, I sat for a while to listen to women singing devotional music to the saint.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_flraUWINCy6mgoMT7rskEKgp2VH5Y88AQgLhIAiRKhKKtBPaRD7YKw9nsLFL1Eqp0rqEKeZNPQceatyvQuM-rcaRgf0Ny3huuOz8t_GF5DcwydKw0uS_5izrg3C1z8f459mxfo1dZA/s1600-h/IMG_7548.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_flraUWINCy6mgoMT7rskEKgp2VH5Y88AQgLhIAiRKhKKtBPaRD7YKw9nsLFL1Eqp0rqEKeZNPQceatyvQuM-rcaRgf0Ny3huuOz8t_GF5DcwydKw0uS_5izrg3C1z8f459mxfo1dZA/s200/IMG_7548.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796576595443490" border="0" /></a>Finally, the best part of Amritsar: The Golden Temple is the holiest site for the Sikh religion, and I spent almost a whole day there. Sikhism is known in the west for the turbans Sikh men wear to keep their uncut hair tidy, and for the kirpans, the ceremonial daggers which are rarely functional weapons, but often controversial. Uncut hair and the ceremonial dagger <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMnXPJ822Q4DiOBNCFyXbt1BC9bQlBqb3sOAyqsGP1rB7aOvAwKTXDFXkJQZp_qnWzt0zESnMCSqp4zQXRQ5utZnRBgwn-giNZQanl6A3U-QpTu-N-MqjSyBKe97Uf-CdsM7KBFojoVA/s1600-h/IMG_7543.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMnXPJ822Q4DiOBNCFyXbt1BC9bQlBqb3sOAyqsGP1rB7aOvAwKTXDFXkJQZp_qnWzt0zESnMCSqp4zQXRQ5utZnRBgwn-giNZQanl6A3U-QpTu-N-MqjSyBKe97Uf-CdsM7KBFojoVA/s200/IMG_7543.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796571490204050" border="0" /></a>are two of the five symbols of the Sikh brotherhood; the others are a comb, undershorts, and a steel bracelet. The turban is a cultural, rather than a religious symbol, and women rarely wear it.<br /><br />I found the people here very welcoming, and everyone must remove their shoes and cover their hair. The temple also includes a langar, or community kitchen, where anyone can eat for free. The traditional <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQKmaxihmyf4UCxiIdwFoIDds12Nlx4x8HSlxfqaHmaNYsyeWHbKz4ukJ2_hepI5GMzIGwCEA3oJmTuz_SA7ngMpXL3hA2yIBCaGU-lZVM6k45xelDC58wURK1wbe4b3DmzEg5H8tcOiE/s1600-h/IMG_7571.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQKmaxihmyf4UCxiIdwFoIDds12Nlx4x8HSlxfqaHmaNYsyeWHbKz4ukJ2_hepI5GMzIGwCEA3oJmTuz_SA7ngMpXL3hA2yIBCaGU-lZVM6k45xelDC58wURK1wbe4b3DmzEg5H8tcOiE/s200/IMG_7571.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451796585453672594" border="0" /></a>guards, Sardars, are both friendly and intimidating. While I'm still taller than average, in Amritsar I didn't feel quite as monstrous as usual, since the Punjab region is known for tall men and women.<br /><br />I stood in line for about 45 minutes to pray in the gurdwara, take some prohibited photographs on the roof, and listen to Sikh men singing devotional songs and recite the Guru Granth Sahib, the Sikh holy book, which is also the living guru. Finally, I sat and watched the sunset from the marble walkway around the pool. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCA5oPHBM8XZZEDph2xltz9i51Gvj7kTXmmzlIotQUsOeCgctZXmG-0SYWSzi94LFaAJuLIbzvXD-6IBnYWTFk0QABtCZSnEKrxk3YByCCn9KDgSIcDiGDwiOYCKvmZA-D46LD4yst4kE/s1600-h/IMG_7712.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCA5oPHBM8XZZEDph2xltz9i51Gvj7kTXmmzlIotQUsOeCgctZXmG-0SYWSzi94LFaAJuLIbzvXD-6IBnYWTFk0QABtCZSnEKrxk3YByCCn9KDgSIcDiGDwiOYCKvmZA-D46LD4yst4kE/s200/IMG_7712.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451797032566209986" border="0" /></a>As usual, I took many photos, which you can find if you access Facebook. At sime I'm looking forward to taking even more photos with my new DSLR camera, on which I blew an entire month's budget yesterday.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-35665988365096866742010-03-21T04:38:00.000-07:002010-03-21T05:12:17.995-07:00Delhi: The Old CityI haven't posted a blog for some time, mostly because India has been kicking my butt for the past six weeks. Let's just say that I was in a six-week whirlwind relationship with bureaucracy, and they decided they didn't want to see me anymore. So I'm leaving Pune for Kathmandu, Nepal on Tuesday morning, for a few weeks. On top of that I sprained my ankle badly, and then <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPj39wgbiOeE93_U5Yw8V1jae615cdy73wcubyy63pGJTosw_qKnSJJNyEhQiSx7N9MD8Yb6xycu5zAn_vw6vdzaBMRv7XWDaFOAT2aoMc-7FMLrB12BZu0qw6qlFujF1AaZ-hRUuPSVM/s1600-h/IMG_6729.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPj39wgbiOeE93_U5Yw8V1jae615cdy73wcubyy63pGJTosw_qKnSJJNyEhQiSx7N9MD8Yb6xycu5zAn_vw6vdzaBMRv7XWDaFOAT2aoMc-7FMLrB12BZu0qw6qlFujF1AaZ-hRUuPSVM/s200/IMG_6729.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056522969977730" border="0" /></a>I ended up with some sort of stomach bug that knocked me down for almost five days.<br /><br />The good news is I went to Delhi, and I took hundreds of photos! I started out at the Red Fort (Lal Qila), but the lineup was huge so I decided to return another day. From there I walked to Raj Ghat, where Gandhi was cremated. The words on the front translate roughly to "Oh God," Gandhi's last words when he was assassinated by a Hindu fanatic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJULYb7TyWvy52ccgNwTN5uoT6Za-cQzESWKsm3LObzpbplOW_m2QYUAeXBDCppcCVsTEKw9VkhGDct568CJD5aHzPFKqkY-Furz-jLqHLQg1xIESTh8J8Gb7IQXHNSc2t39z1Qd96t_0/s1600-h/IMG_6842.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJULYb7TyWvy52ccgNwTN5uoT6Za-cQzESWKsm3LObzpbplOW_m2QYUAeXBDCppcCVsTEKw9VkhGDct568CJD5aHzPFKqkY-Furz-jLqHLQg1xIESTh8J8Gb7IQXHNSc2t39z1Qd96t_0/s200/IMG_6842.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056537451411202" border="0" /></a>The Jama Masjid was the next visit, and I was surprised to find it the f<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMj84M8UDThzPLlpW7vc8A22PrneY4b7-WbZBEwUbeBqTo7JfUOYzYhzLdk6SyC5aJIrIo1z_3pnChOFBnxKaPCNXjOehB3Z9KNRDCo-bvLbu6tSxrll_vldQdKgKUwmCrKI8HZ84q48/s1600-h/IMG_6899.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMj84M8UDThzPLlpW7vc8A22PrneY4b7-WbZBEwUbeBqTo7JfUOYzYhzLdk6SyC5aJIrIo1z_3pnChOFBnxKaPCNXjOehB3Z9KNRDCo-bvLbu6tSxrll_vldQdKgKUwmCrKI8HZ84q48/s200/IMG_6899.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056541076280194" border="0" /></a>irst religious site where I didn't feel welcome. (I suspect that comes from being a woman travelling alone, in the conservative Old City of Delhi.) The mosque is beautiful though, following the red sandstone and white marble theme of many of the historical buildings in Delhi. A short stop at the India Gate, commemorating Indian soldiers, and a brief look at the Parliament buildings, which are mostly enclosed by high walls.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmflemn1ukEtTsN8_ZwUYtnsquos4k7YBQo9Nx2-HuRBEvGTzdXrJJtJ9j9YfYU5wFXcy6wdADYoT3Ozk-qFjqxOHcz2FBrf0OM_oKmfPOoIF2l9wtWpf9M31CHkKNXHs54CRHbTQq3k/s1600-h/IMG_6974.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmflemn1ukEtTsN8_ZwUYtnsquos4k7YBQo9Nx2-HuRBEvGTzdXrJJtJ9j9YfYU5wFXcy6wdADYoT3Ozk-qFjqxOHcz2FBrf0OM_oKmfPOoIF2l9wtWpf9M31CHkKNXHs54CRHbTQq3k/s200/IMG_6974.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056546319780642" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpPGPqsDV-99vBfnXxyl4qPVWqaBaSdl8g9vxfht1DFHvgq4e_cqxm-Sn9-2Qhgyopko76uaGmeS_hVcI6dnvD-hoaJbWEWsnnK5frgkmi9zzN6Q_SZfqx9i3IuU4bKq2FCcfgl4zh4Q/s1600-h/IMG_7087.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpPGPqsDV-99vBfnXxyl4qPVWqaBaSdl8g9vxfht1DFHvgq4e_cqxm-Sn9-2Qhgyopko76uaGmeS_hVcI6dnvD-hoaJbWEWsnnK5frgkmi9zzN6Q_SZfqx9i3IuU4bKq2FCcfgl4zh4Q/s200/IMG_7087.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056898695495154" border="0" /></a>Back to the Red Fort to spend half a day wandering around the old buildings. The immense outer walls are built of red sandstone, and most of the inner buildings are white marble. The Mughal emperor <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akbar_the_Great">Akbar</a> had a personal mosque built here. Many of the buildings had <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietra_dura">pietra dura</a>, or semi-precious stone inlaid in the marble. Where water meant wealth (and still does, to some extent), <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIXgpj6Gs7yC4GvNanRH79IvKwJWW_u9J3WC1Esrx9KyuJ6ozodTWbrDC3gCjGhzp7yenWlg-QHUr_q3RB5V1XwSSI5vavbjKai3-7dFP1KfuC0UVI_yheozd0Vd_emouR0cRo50i_XdY/s1600-h/IMG_7056.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIXgpj6Gs7yC4GvNanRH79IvKwJWW_u9J3WC1Esrx9KyuJ6ozodTWbrDC3gCjGhzp7yenWlg-QHUr_q3RB5V1XwSSI5vavbjKai3-7dFP1KfuC0UVI_yheozd0Vd_emouR0cRo50i_XdY/s200/IMG_7056.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056887471196626" border="0" /></a>it was incredible to see the complex of fountains and waterways, and to imagine the display of power it represented. Although most of the waterways are dry now, the wealth is still displayed in the green lawns.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTQoG8Se_ThR6XeVVFVP6kDs1hiHONuZGTxFXOrRBeJXhtlsrdGqDDO6vnwJyfsUxPWq1jdBO8Ojt2mQz8Hf9prXwnS3ZGfk-Zunaf0bxI6BePHqo7xIiHnMZIFVr_OnAUGUUjVM3_OAM/s1600-h/IMG_7100.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTQoG8Se_ThR6XeVVFVP6kDs1hiHONuZGTxFXOrRBeJXhtlsrdGqDDO6vnwJyfsUxPWq1jdBO8Ojt2mQz8Hf9prXwnS3ZGfk-Zunaf0bxI6BePHqo7xIiHnMZIFVr_OnAUGUUjVM3_OAM/s200/IMG_7100.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056910591835954" border="0" /></a>A short stop for Old Dehli's famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jalebi">jalebis</a>, then onward. I planned to visit the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal">Taj Mahal</a> in Agra on this visit, but "Delhi belly"<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8zl8xCV1dxUjcTPVgCpUzAapvWmfXvrwGx24c-Bt9JgJgxt4yWMb6g7dxKz6XfZjGCV7TlxrU3odzjIudU3uBm7dvLP9-hdeP9trhj7jwnwh_nLcOh6lObrgPOASXozGbAh9figi4xd4/s1600-h/IMG_7283.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8zl8xCV1dxUjcTPVgCpUzAapvWmfXvrwGx24c-Bt9JgJgxt4yWMb6g7dxKz6XfZjGCV7TlxrU3odzjIudU3uBm7dvLP9-hdeP9trhj7jwnwh_nLcOh6lObrgPOASXozGbAh9figi4xd4/s200/IMG_7283.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451057816504240930" border="0" /></a> stopped me. I did manage to complete the other "bookend" to the Taj Mahal; in Aurangabad I visited <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/12/around-aurangabad.html">Bibi ka Maqbara</a>, built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb and influenced by the Taj Mahal, and in Delhi I visited Humayan's Tomb, built by the wife of the Mughal emperor <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humayun">Humayan</a>, and a precursor to the Taj Mahal.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0PaNTiIyH6QWYxzp7kkOl-wC67YLo_UonBO1qTFyX0hg5i1V589s8mZ6SHvvxzc8ae7i0dV0CCw9nqJxMfFQsauU4nPaVghxBfHaNp792zjRU2Ar-nbyNED0a0x-OQdeWw3zm8BJd0GI/s1600-h/IMG_7238.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0PaNTiIyH6QWYxzp7kkOl-wC67YLo_UonBO1qTFyX0hg5i1V589s8mZ6SHvvxzc8ae7i0dV0CCw9nqJxMfFQsauU4nPaVghxBfHaNp792zjRU2Ar-nbyNED0a0x-OQdeWw3zm8BJd0GI/s200/IMG_7238.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451056917192332418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Stay tuned for Part II of my north-western Indian adventures!Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-13626602928900549302010-02-15T00:50:00.000-08:002010-02-15T03:23:38.877-08:00Some Canadians Visit... and Some Thoughts on the German BakeryIf you're a regular reader you probably noticed that I haven't posted a blog for a while. My mom and stepfather Kirk were visiting from London, Canada for two weeks. This past weekend I spent in Lonavala with a side trip with the Firelords overnight. That means this will be an epic blog post.<br /><br />Pune became Indian front-page news February 13, 2010 when a bomb exploded at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_Bakery">German Bakery</a> in the Koregaon Park neighbourhood, killing 9 people and injuring 60. It's suspected to be a terrorist bombing because the German Bakery is popular with foreign visitors and locals alike. I'm safe, and all of my friends are safe as far as I'm aware, but it has affected all of us. I took my mom and Kirk for a coffee there two weeks ago. Some friends were at the cafe only 30 minutes earlier, and other friends were driving past when the explosion happened. I'll be thinking of the families and friends of the people killed, and the recovery of the injured. For me, it's important not to be afraid. Pune is a great place to visit, and a cool city. A minority of violent people can't ruin a city for everyone else. It's important to continue with our lives and demand our right to live freely and peacefully.<br /><br />The last week of January and the first week of February I showed my mom and Kirk around Pune for a week and a half, then we visited Mumbai for three days. After their flight arrived on Monday we went shopping to buy a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurta">kurta</a> for mom at FabIndia, then walked around my neighbourhood. The men in the local sweet <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5kDSqvpfulr6YLce5uplXiUW8tnWbc6nqDLTwrplzzpKd2HC-C1uXcdMJ-q4Yo-swx2WHF5nwlzPSpNOpOnRZcHFuiFrjCI6FGLVZk_e7zsOsbZHRgvu5wiheaRTpoGaMI0-raP2264/s1600-h/IMG_6270.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5kDSqvpfulr6YLce5uplXiUW8tnWbc6nqDLTwrplzzpKd2HC-C1uXcdMJ-q4Yo-swx2WHF5nwlzPSpNOpOnRZcHFuiFrjCI6FGLVZk_e7zsOsbZHRgvu5wiheaRTpoGaMI0-raP2264/s200/IMG_6270.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413579777517506" border="0" /></a>shop were delighted. Then a quick tour of my flat before heading for <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/11/top-of-world-or-pune-at-least.html">Parvati Hill</a>. We spent a lot of time eating and riding around in autorickshaws, and I saw some new things, although I also took them to places I'd visited before.<br /><br />Tuesday was the 60th anniversary of Republic Day. (India became independent in 1947, and became a republic in 1950.) We visited Shaniwar Wada, and <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/11/shaniwar-wada.html">as I promised</a>, took a good photo of the front. Laxmi Road Market gave a good idea of how the locals shop, and since it was a holiday, it was especially packed. Kirk lagged behind because he "didn't want to shove old ladies out of the way" only to have a demonstration of an old lady shoving me out of the way.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJC2O0xJBuzsTv_z0-cnaVqma__pPx7Jy_WWdj1vHTrpIDPwNZlgiok3dBNx0yPzx3utzuAYZIFFLj0bY3DmN33Rv1yewWPJ0HNZARp5xo1hqMzFsL5NZ414pLArdZ3b1e0lnwOFYjgio/s1600-h/IMG_6344.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJC2O0xJBuzsTv_z0-cnaVqma__pPx7Jy_WWdj1vHTrpIDPwNZlgiok3dBNx0yPzx3utzuAYZIFFLj0bY3DmN33Rv1yewWPJ0HNZARp5xo1hqMzFsL5NZ414pLArdZ3b1e0lnwOFYjgio/s200/IMG_6344.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413585878368722" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Wednesday we visited <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/09/university-of-pune.html">Pune University</a>, where I showed them my regular canteen thali. Mom had read about Alice's grave before. From there we went to Rajiv Gandhi zoo to visit the famous snake park. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXz8ThC-m1jJpdwaeH59_e6HPwkOSl0r9yRVu43ynGVwRHb0QcKnOP4fhMBRxsRTa91p-9eso0C9q-YYpDcONwuysUcj-icZ0Lc8sW2r5KmhArVvIYcVU8GUELVIj5776KtvOa1pIToRI/s1600-h/IMG_6378+copy.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 144px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXz8ThC-m1jJpdwaeH59_e6HPwkOSl0r9yRVu43ynGVwRHb0QcKnOP4fhMBRxsRTa91p-9eso0C9q-YYpDcONwuysUcj-icZ0Lc8sW2r5KmhArVvIYcVU8GUELVIj5776KtvOa1pIToRI/s200/IMG_6378+copy.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413598341114818" border="0" /></a>We were really impressed with the zoo, since there was obvious care and effort put into creating a few habitats for animals native to India, rather than trying to squeeze in as many animals as possible from around the world. All the tigers were hiding, except for the white one.<br /><br />Thursday we visited the Raja Kelkar museum, which is filled with local and Indian art and tools. I've included a photo of a Yali, which is a South Indian protective demon. Perhaps this is the <a href="http://www.facebook.com/home.php#%21/photo.php?pid=49679497&id=48923187&fbid=860656705390">same creature</a> I photographed in the Hampi carvings?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxlFKC3WpTWxol9B0JrqLyzAsS6gBWEigx3kZQYtIAqO0brttfXNfE8j86uoKXnzXaDYFBIAQojTKksakqiXg4jYYsKUdk7c8Cha2qOK3oan4ilbbJOGX3IkGOKRbB3Smo7UB8bxjBIo/s1600-h/DSCF3532.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxlFKC3WpTWxol9B0JrqLyzAsS6gBWEigx3kZQYtIAqO0brttfXNfE8j86uoKXnzXaDYFBIAQojTKksakqiXg4jYYsKUdk7c8Cha2qOK3oan4ilbbJOGX3IkGOKRbB3Smo7UB8bxjBIo/s200/DSCF3532.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413572678101874" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Friday we spent a quiet day, then went out with the Firelords motorcycle club for a ride. The next day, much of the same, only we met for dinner with the Firelords at Kishor's place. Sunday mom and I ate dinner with my flatmates then walked to <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009/09/neighbourhood-in-aundh.html">the temple that I can see from my flat</a>.<br /><br />Monday we visited the Tribal Cultural Museum, which was small but worthwhile. I was impressed by the <a href="http://warlipainting.com/">warli painting</a>, the metal jewelry, and the woven baskets. From there we stopped by Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Road, where the tourists shop, and where I stayed when I first arrived in Pune.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO8xkccuGWCDvrsy9eh0Smh19FAtHfT_q0UFD2SLFtsxecZskLNRr-yGFMCg0j3R6tX_NcZ3nLR5RX8A77runIwX2Ywkxt1Bsn6Ep451hhn0w25f38EnX5SVH338eg7fNWRY8f_aKPQM/s1600-h/IMG_6474.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO8xkccuGWCDvrsy9eh0Smh19FAtHfT_q0UFD2SLFtsxecZskLNRr-yGFMCg0j3R6tX_NcZ3nLR5RX8A77runIwX2Ywkxt1Bsn6Ep451hhn0w25f38EnX5SVH338eg7fNWRY8f_aKPQM/s200/IMG_6474.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413823217939298" border="0" /></a>Tuesday we travelled to Lonavala to visit the Karla and Bhaja caves. I disagreed again with my guidebook which recommended Karla for the large chaitya. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Q7B5BLcj7FyqjgWvh6ZYw9tJyORQZQFyOzxMSMlfi_r0iHX7J4g-NGQVdfR1WE4N8RoHpku3DVBpKTBcsqV9kfXEQp-CWr7NVdJ1Bk8wCTAKiu-QhbUt7tmicUaONE6YFX35H7VsASA/s1600-h/IMG_6456.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Q7B5BLcj7FyqjgWvh6ZYw9tJyORQZQFyOzxMSMlfi_r0iHX7J4g-NGQVdfR1WE4N8RoHpku3DVBpKTBcsqV9kfXEQp-CWr7NVdJ1Bk8wCTAKiu-QhbUt7tmicUaONE6YFX35H7VsASA/s200/IMG_6456.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413606177517186" border="0" /></a>I loved Bhaja because of the many water tanks, and the collection of carved <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stupa">stupas</a> lining the path.<br /><br />Wednesday early morning we caught the bus to <a href="http://punegirl.blogspot.com/2009_12_01_archive.html">Mumbai</a> to spend three days. We stayed right by the Taj Mahal Hotel, at the Moti Mahal. The first day mom and I walked around Colaba. This time we went into <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcXI0QAmXkM2nOwgnn_UqI2puzqc03uV214qJnbiuUOM0sRBmgOnmhVUS-cdzbl86r1P6qMkVU2fU7uyyf1O11RTTot79F7aOP7dkZbruKSbOWK3rM42ZSrIzipVfapZqU6JQQjF7DQCg/s1600-h/IMG_6552.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcXI0QAmXkM2nOwgnn_UqI2puzqc03uV214qJnbiuUOM0sRBmgOnmhVUS-cdzbl86r1P6qMkVU2fU7uyyf1O11RTTot79F7aOP7dkZbruKSbOWK3rM42ZSrIzipVfapZqU6JQQjF7DQCg/s200/IMG_6552.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413825840814978" border="0" /></a>Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue! On the way out we were delayed by the convoy for the German President, which continued to block our direct travels for the rest of the week. We also went into the High Court and checked out the carvings of wolves in lawyers' clothing and peeking monkeys with the scales of justice. Thursday I sent mom and Kirk to Elephanta Island.<br /><br />Friday <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsQ3R5ZuaTsxmDdG1JeWtWf21WmbtFxwHlYrF2g5Ex9FL3X9E9n8NtzFUgl8iVQPr6GjiPbczCWlL14R_xSRaLq8T76dGBHlabk4SVlpKk4B38w1mjesQfGSGJMKah24tyqoNS_LxvOU/s1600-h/IMG_6580.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsQ3R5ZuaTsxmDdG1JeWtWf21WmbtFxwHlYrF2g5Ex9FL3X9E9n8NtzFUgl8iVQPr6GjiPbczCWlL14R_xSRaLq8T76dGBHlabk4SVlpKk4B38w1mjesQfGSGJMKah24tyqoNS_LxvOU/s200/IMG_6580.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413833154367458" border="0" /></a>we shopped and took some photos of Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus), then mom and I travelled see the dhobi ghats, Hajj Ali Mosque--because it was Friday, some men were singing devotional songs on the porch--Mahalaxmi Temple, and Chowpatty Beach for bhel puri and mango kulfi. Saturday we returned to Pune to catch their evening flight back to Canada.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQB4mN1S8ChRX1q3hiEHN9W28HLX3JGxXz-Pc8ikcXUwJXdlsjtNSrjgZGYcqj6VQ7NP8K03IpghZfoZYE8yhifdPG0W8OsiUBcaGgzfQpRRCJQcUslX5SQ6U3cg3pJdc6X9cSECGHVY/s1600-h/IMG_6590.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQB4mN1S8ChRX1q3hiEHN9W28HLX3JGxXz-Pc8ikcXUwJXdlsjtNSrjgZGYcqj6VQ7NP8K03IpghZfoZYE8yhifdPG0W8OsiUBcaGgzfQpRRCJQcUslX5SQ6U3cg3pJdc6X9cSECGHVY/s200/IMG_6590.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438413840510041794" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This past weekend I spent in Lonavala, which included an incredibly cool trip. Sadly I don't have any photos because I wasn't prepared, and didn't bring my camera. The Firelords planned a trip to the "Slopes of Hell" (or whatever they call it) which involved each of them riding up a steep incline to the top of a mountain in the <a href="en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Ghats">Western Ghats</a>. The communications tower at the top justifies a "road" with steep drops to either side, loose rocks, and overgrown cobblestones. Very few of them made it up without stalling. Then we spent the night on the mountain, and rose with the sun to travel home again.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMx-poNcY6y7xbYfqHjRp7cPSJa29EFITri4_kqFW9tx2v2JN8AB1j_3dAFqIfNUORv_wzHYSem3ClTh9U5L1aFzZqKyCU0LGdXQSeJvEg4SgFDDw19NNcbjKGejJo_wgOovvu-t0LKsc/s1600-h/IMG_6621.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMx-poNcY6y7xbYfqHjRp7cPSJa29EFITri4_kqFW9tx2v2JN8AB1j_3dAFqIfNUORv_wzHYSem3ClTh9U5L1aFzZqKyCU0LGdXQSeJvEg4SgFDDw19NNcbjKGejJo_wgOovvu-t0LKsc/s200/IMG_6621.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438426373762868866" border="0" /></a>Lonavala is a hill station selling <a href="http://www.blogger.com/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikki">chikki </a>at four out of five shops, unbelievable traffic at night, and gorgeous panoramic views of the Western Ghats.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4321780926226604115.post-59795381283434305752010-01-22T05:13:00.001-08:002010-01-22T06:09:39.560-08:00Boulders! Ruins! Hampi!First I want to mention with sadness the death of a former colleague on Tuesday. Evadne Sutherland was one of my favourite people at the Lifesaving Society Ontario Branch office, and I'll really miss her.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmnGUcd9aggC7sVc4cW5MEJKJpEO81Y5upDdymLMGaOwZHLd8_LptDFaliJuLTpIw-8pcm8sofIydNXiVwI6zdzSgZAK10nwHxakxos_Hlcq7WbEqCVEsQ0BheDIo6TQCIWTJE-XdXuo/s1600-h/001hanuman.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429551994401853570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmnGUcd9aggC7sVc4cW5MEJKJpEO81Y5upDdymLMGaOwZHLd8_LptDFaliJuLTpIw-8pcm8sofIydNXiVwI6zdzSgZAK10nwHxakxos_Hlcq7WbEqCVEsQ0BheDIo6TQCIWTJE-XdXuo/s200/001hanuman.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 200px; width: 116px;" border="0" /></a>At Hampi in the state of Karnataka the surrounding monuments are included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. More than 550 ruins are here, and it's easy to share the builders' view of the sacred, clearly present in the landscape. The capital of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vijayanagar">Vijayanagar empire</a>, according to the epic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramayana">Ramayana</a>, lies in the historical home of the monkey people. They feature on many of the carved pillars. I've included one pillar of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanuman">Hanuman</a>, the monkey king, kicking some butt.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-FQffBzlrAdauEZSZSi9D_505_WKysybLrVgBFc-zSr3saUBE4JzXqEyvnOCcv6kdwbvMKffUGdajtOLKyUO3PPq6jltIMx4nGlWxXPNMHLf0o1sbyI3l-n9FGdIc1rCHgpVAgeesCQ/s1600-h/003hemakuta.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552006482789506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-FQffBzlrAdauEZSZSi9D_505_WKysybLrVgBFc-zSr3saUBE4JzXqEyvnOCcv6kdwbvMKffUGdajtOLKyUO3PPq6jltIMx4nGlWxXPNMHLf0o1sbyI3l-n9FGdIc1rCHgpVAgeesCQ/s200/003hemakuta.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 200px; width: 150px;" border="0" /></a>The best views of Virupaksha Temple, founded in the 7th century and dedicated to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiva">Shiva</a>, are from Hemakuta hill to the south. Temple ruins are scattered among the boulders, and carvings were chiseled <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcQ5bFqZjWmSrrVzRW7Bjo-VgSfYA4KYc_efmusYijAzdIXbz31baiRruEBtc5hB-3MRWNJPDRSS6_Y9SyXZ5VSwK3544mjwRgPINw5ve9zSXrbKwemDX9uUDwEzWtp6WKw9owetkazU/s1600/002virupaksha.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429551997902342226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcQ5bFqZjWmSrrVzRW7Bjo-VgSfYA4KYc_efmusYijAzdIXbz31baiRruEBtc5hB-3MRWNJPDRSS6_Y9SyXZ5VSwK3544mjwRgPINw5ve9zSXrbKwemDX9uUDwEzWtp6WKw9owetkazU/s200/002virupaksha.JPG" style="height: 150px; margin-top: 0pt; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>directly into the stone.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4leYECDqhGkbBZH2qvBA4L__mQspxt65O-MnZHoXnu5BaYlDdgfvv-5sHZUhPrniKwAYFOXkFxucOYQy0I0vmcPSn9Veut2UU2nSphB-llkVjf2-LF02GnJvwP3Xlofs3_s50oXjWAFE/s1600-h/004tunghabadra.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552010128799410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4leYECDqhGkbBZH2qvBA4L__mQspxt65O-MnZHoXnu5BaYlDdgfvv-5sHZUhPrniKwAYFOXkFxucOYQy0I0vmcPSn9Veut2UU2nSphB-llkVjf2-LF02GnJvwP3Xlofs3_s50oXjWAFE/s200/004tunghabadra.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>To the north is the Tunghabadra River, where coracles cross to the ruins and villages on the other side. They were building a bridge, but it fell down.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsZSdAM9BbVqr1m_5X3Ob7ZLHvhth2y8qIZQPkcmgYgK7N3Dh9ARhL0SXTHsxEKEg-DTniu1bylMC2ilUorTTl3htJeRe2cJ1O38fProbHmj-G7ItHGLwUkN7Dcj6u-5xW4G7xuBv-TZ0/s1600-h/005vittala.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552015244433602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsZSdAM9BbVqr1m_5X3Ob7ZLHvhth2y8qIZQPkcmgYgK7N3Dh9ARhL0SXTHsxEKEg-DTniu1bylMC2ilUorTTl3htJeRe2cJ1O38fProbHmj-G7ItHGLwUkN7Dcj6u-5xW4G7xuBv-TZ0/s200/005vittala.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>Inside Vittala Temple is a famous carving of a chariot which is a shrine itself.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_V5d770cPiC0W7GcZIckX5g-7alZwixuFETJS9-nB4ym-p38HIaxQiH_k0XP5eM95tb9P4m9c0tqM0xfvTBVNllNVifgOMouchiY1lQy769RS9LUDSxBD-mUAJ00cnhs6VhhBhI4ju44/s1600-h/006stepped.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552738352068226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_V5d770cPiC0W7GcZIckX5g-7alZwixuFETJS9-nB4ym-p38HIaxQiH_k0XP5eM95tb9P4m9c0tqM0xfvTBVNllNVifgOMouchiY1lQy769RS9LUDSxBD-mUAJ00cnhs6VhhBhI4ju44/s200/006stepped.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>One of my favourite sites was the stepped tank fed by an aqueduct. Here I captured a few of the hundreds of school children who wanted to say hello, ask my name, and have their photo taken. They're about to swarm me!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRm_3CzuVxr_paRnrnsaX03wq7eIw8wDtn1hYZg2FJDFSEYvG4Ysz8IHHukA0q-lLaebOUmQUoOe8t_xp3TvWw8PmBhhgnnuWiE0KWnTE9kg3d-1ZJpMkYl2qP2pn2O4mW_d9SyPIlQ-g/s1600-h/007elephant.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552747059681426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRm_3CzuVxr_paRnrnsaX03wq7eIw8wDtn1hYZg2FJDFSEYvG4Ysz8IHHukA0q-lLaebOUmQUoOe8t_xp3TvWw8PmBhhgnnuWiE0KWnTE9kg3d-1ZJpMkYl2qP2pn2O4mW_d9SyPIlQ-g/s200/007elephant.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>The Elephant Stables are inside the Zenana. It was difficult to capture how grand they are!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYyprnI6DFmzHyYuszOcoOu2gX6KhsX7Gq9EU7KSnupxH_Acy8xPaMaVAqfNzp4pozdpRPh94cpYOnEGcmLqbjllBrjLs2NzwR2wWamcXwTPFcZq_QqGdGkdPaTMy35gOfi_hCi0LtMYo/s1600-h/008working.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552751736956338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYyprnI6DFmzHyYuszOcoOu2gX6KhsX7Gq9EU7KSnupxH_Acy8xPaMaVAqfNzp4pozdpRPh94cpYOnEGcmLqbjllBrjLs2NzwR2wWamcXwTPFcZq_QqGdGkdPaTMy35gOfi_hCi0LtMYo/s200/008working.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>I walked around behind the stables to the quieter temples, and took photos of some beautiful working girls who were cutting the grass.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjszQBkofybuc4Ol81al_wQ3xyaJBlo80Q_TvNKP5KbPVIVp9hw-9cwVWjKT6RxhD0VOYoW5Sw5pFL0USEpuHEKAlaEpiaKhSzQFls0y6irqzwFPQey_T4MUujX9QaPjdmcfRMmNrrXic/s1600-h/009lotusmahal.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552752188293634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjszQBkofybuc4Ol81al_wQ3xyaJBlo80Q_TvNKP5KbPVIVp9hw-9cwVWjKT6RxhD0VOYoW5Sw5pFL0USEpuHEKAlaEpiaKhSzQFls0y6irqzwFPQey_T4MUujX9QaPjdmcfRMmNrrXic/s200/009lotusmahal.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>Nearby is the Lotus Mahal, a summer palace for the queen.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHnVFX2mRzfYU5tAJF12SYE0GF5ph9VGuoWxz1WDtMQ7rbxYmCX4Zof1zRg9n9URY3wQ7H14YWpeOLppI0YqA6avahNoox9Yle3gIUFy7g7GUhJeVt4nSovFIbR_aVR43v-d_mpSBc6E/s1600-h/010krishna.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429552759904882466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHnVFX2mRzfYU5tAJF12SYE0GF5ph9VGuoWxz1WDtMQ7rbxYmCX4Zof1zRg9n9URY3wQ7H14YWpeOLppI0YqA6avahNoox9Yle3gIUFy7g7GUhJeVt4nSovFIbR_aVR43v-d_mpSBc6E/s200/010krishna.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 200px; width: 150px;" border="0" /></a>The temple architecture was really interesting. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkmtCcifUdvBScdvQpDJA2NEehMAghKvuTJXwltBE0a5_oKxDFUtKIlJ5jyIFmxdeY3T_rqEGEG6FPiHKMIjyawUSVcBo1ChhDzuP89RRakByEbKEB_E_MJB2fzxjgy2b40qy7z19x3MQ/s1600-h/011narasimha.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429553227864334402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkmtCcifUdvBScdvQpDJA2NEehMAghKvuTJXwltBE0a5_oKxDFUtKIlJ5jyIFmxdeY3T_rqEGEG6FPiHKMIjyawUSVcBo1ChhDzuP89RRakByEbKEB_E_MJB2fzxjgy2b40qy7z19x3MQ/s200/011narasimha.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 200px; width: 150px;" border="0" /></a>Often the base was of stone carved from the boulders littering the landscape, while the spires were built from brick, with painted stucco decoration. South Indian culture has some major historical differences from North Indian culture, and one difference arises in the iconography. This detail is from the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krishna">Krishna</a> temple. The Laxmi <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narasimha">Narasimha</a> monolith was also new to me--and fascinating! This is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vishnu">Vishnu</a> in his man-lion incarnation, worshipped mostly in the south.<br /><br />The <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPe5TZgoS4f5zA1ulKbnWdlvuPKsyJpt62HGcmx7dsVaoXTA33rAeAJU1aXOA6RW0QhmvJvdWvO5SSqO5oc0zTuOH9e12aVU7oAFoCGkKoW-HbdlZGc1HFpq_PDh8mso4qcX5QgK4kJJQ/s1600-h/012nandi.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429553230054476626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPe5TZgoS4f5zA1ulKbnWdlvuPKsyJpt62HGcmx7dsVaoXTA33rAeAJU1aXOA6RW0QhmvJvdWvO5SSqO5oc0zTuOH9e12aVU7oAFoCGkKoW-HbdlZGc1HFpq_PDh8mso4qcX5QgK4kJJQ/s200/012nandi.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>final day I went for puja at Virupaksha temple. As always, you must remove your shoes to enter a temple. I included this photo of the central shrine from behind three nandi because I stood in something disgusting to take it. Including it in my blog makes me feel like it was worth it!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpyW2nMMkGgg7SA2z5YudEcol_O725yjcAg5VEi5S7MCl5yJvwO0IU6rc60wt7PyUgnK3gcSzmkTXvQ1qcYGN2YHX9MR_cnLgrmKEiuAfZjGp3R1Ke_uADkjlFHbR1gibu9hvbQWqAX4/s1600-h/013bicycle.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429553233379980354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpyW2nMMkGgg7SA2z5YudEcol_O725yjcAg5VEi5S7MCl5yJvwO0IU6rc60wt7PyUgnK3gcSzmkTXvQ1qcYGN2YHX9MR_cnLgrmKEiuAfZjGp3R1Ke_uADkjlFHbR1gibu9hvbQWqAX4/s200/013bicycle.JPG" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 150px; width: 200px;" border="0" /></a>Then I rented a bicycle and cycled around at my own pace. I recommend this method of exploring most highly. Just make sure you get a bicycle with a seat that stays up! I visited the Underground Temple, and the Queen's Bath; only the Octagonal Bath made the cut in for the now-common Facebook B-list.Carolynhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10053852486592787235noreply@blogger.com0